bowl gouge grind issues

[Prashun Patel]

I am using a Wolverine Varigrind, and have the jig set to the 2nd notch from the bottom. However, the tip of my gouges are getting pointier and pointier, and there is a concavity on the top edges of the wings that I'm unable to eliminate. Any ideas what I can do to correct this?

[Tom Winship]

Prashun, I'm a newbie at this myself, however, I would think that the more pointed tip could be eliminated by spending more time on the tip and less on the wings. (I would try grinding the tip back and forth until it becomes round again). When the tip becomes more rounded, that might improve the concavity of the wings to some extent.
As I say, I'm a newbie, but am learning on the same equipment and a Thompson 1/2" V bowl gouge.

[John Keeton]

Tom is correct, it takes but a second on the tip as there is very little metal on the stone at any given moment. I would suggest you start your grind on the side and swing to the tip. Do that from either side, and then get the tip where you want it by blending the grind into the sides.

I also like my wings swept back considerably. On a 1/2" gouge, my wings are probably 3/4" or more. It also looks as if you have a pretty blunt grind (hard to tell from the pic angle) - are you setting the jig 2" back from the tip?

[Charles Bjorgen]

Go on over to Doug Thompson's web site and look at his sharpening tips. They should work for your gouge.http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/sharpening.asp

There is a PDF file you can download and print for a handy reference. As others have already mentioned you can round off the nose of the gouge as you rotate the jig from side to side. I generally like the wings longer than the Thompson PDF shows. It takes patience. Have a good light on your grinding wheel and work slowly with a light touch so you don't grind away valuable High speed steel.

Oneway also has some video tutorials on the Wolverine system on their site. They can be hard to find and I don't have a direct link to them. Good luck.

[Bernie Weishapl]

You have gotten some good advice and will add to what John said. I have a 2 x 4 block sitting on the edge that I drilled a 1 3/4" hole in. I put my gouge in the jig and put the gouge tip into the block and tighten. I have 1 3/4" protruding out of the jig. I also start on one side wing and swing from one side to the other side in one movement. That way my tip never gets pointy. My wings on my gouges are also 3/4" or so.

[David DeCristoforo]

Everybody's correct! Amazing. Also, you need to lay the rig over more. Your wings are not fully ground at the ends which is why you are getting that upward arc.

[David E Keller]

Everybody's correct! Amazing. Also, you need to lay the rig over more. Your wings are not fully ground at the ends which is why you are getting that upward arc.

What he said! I roll my jig over as far as I can go to get the longest possible wing on the tool. As for the length of the tool protruding, I use the length of the pocket on the arm of the wolverine... I push the jig against the near edge of the pocket and extend the tool through the jig until the heel is aligned with the far edge of the pocket. Not my idea... Stole that one from Jimmy Clewes!

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Prashun,
If you lay the top of the tool sideways on your tool rest with both wings touching the stone, you can lightly grind the shape you are looking for. I like mine ever so slightly convex. Then put the tool back in the jig and you will quickly see the complete motion you need to sharpen the entire edge you just formed.
I don't know where you are in NJ. I am close to the Delaware Water Gap.
faust

[Bill Noce]

Prashun,
If you go on you tube John Lucas has a video on sharpening a gouge and also how to correct the different problem like the one that you have. Search John Lucas Woodturner, sharpening bowl gouge.

[Prashun Patel]

Thank you, Everyone. Your explanations seem obvious in retrospect! I think the cause of the problem is that my wheel is not really balanced properly. This causes the nose to bounce a little, rather than grind. My jig tends to hit the controls on the 6" grinder when rolling to one side, so that's probably why I don't sweep the wings enough. I am switching to a CBN in a day or two, which will give me more radius and hopefully more balance.

I know: it's not optimal to put an 8" wheel on a 6" grinder. But I'll try it. Since there is minimal risk of this wheel exploding, I can run it without the shroud. If I burn out the motor, I'll upgrade at that time.

[Reed Gray]

Are you getting one of the D Way CBN wheels? You will love them. As others have said, you have to shorten the nose a bit, or lengthen the wings. I used to use the swept back design a lot, but have gone more conventional lately. More pointy is less desireable, and more rounded is better. The sweet spot for cutting is the nose, and a more rounded profile gives more surface area to cut with. I notice that you haven't relieved the bevel on the heel. Grind away about half of it. This REALLY helps you navigate the inside of the bowl.

robo hippy

[Prashun Patel]

Followup:

Thank you for all yr advice. The flatter, truer CBN wheel helps me keep my...um...nose to the grindstone. I also increased the roll on the wings. Didn't take followup pix, but they look much more as expected. Thanks, Tom and everyone.

- prashun