New member with questions

[Alfredo Moriel]

Hello, my name is Alfredo Moriel and I am new member of the Creek but I have been visiting these forums for a while now; great info to be found here! :) I have always been the creative type and very much into design and the arts. When I first saw what can be done with a laser, I was extremely inspired by the possibilities. Needless to say, I purchased a laser system a few months ago. As I have become more familiar with the laser by testing out on different materials, I have found that I really like the results produced on Corian. I have purchased 1/4" pieces off of Ebay and while my Epilog mini 24 40W has no problems with the engraving part it does run into a wall when trying to cut it. I have run it at 20 speed, 100 power and 5000 frequency with multiple passes and nothing :( . Is there a better setting I could use? I have also checked online for a source of 1/8" Corian with no results, does anyone know where I might be able to purchase some? I am mainly looking for white or off white tones. From what I have been researching online, it seems that the only way to get 1/8" Corian is to resaw it (sp?) with a bandsaw. Unfortunately for me, I have no access to a bandsaw. I do believe that for the type of things I will be creating, 1/8" Corian would be the way to go for me but before even thinking of buying a bandsaw capable of resawing Corian I would really like to test it on my laser first. Any advise or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Frank Corker]

Welcome to the Creek. I have never cut Corian personally but the manual says that it can be cut - Corian Or Avonite Engrave at 600dpi 35/100 ⅛” (3 mm) – cut at 30/100/5000. Quite often what is recommended isn't always the same on each machine and your settings are even lower speed so it should be getting through it. Before you venture further I would keep slowing the speed down to see what it will get through with, if nothing at all, it might be down to the compound mix of the corian itself, try a piece from a different manufacturer or try a different colour. There is quite often a difference in material because of the ingredients added to make the colour.

[Bill Cunningham]

I have found the corian can be machined very much like wood.. A router will put a nice decorative edge on corian plaques, just the same as it does on wood.. I have cut it on a tablesaw, or sliding mitre saw, but not a bandsaw that I supposed would result in more heat.. There are folks on here that have done incredible things with corian, unfortunately, I'm not one of them.. But your in the right place to find out!
Welcome to de creek!

[Mike Null]

I think re-sawing Corian will be an effort in futility. As Bill says, it machines beautifully and engraves well but cutting it with the laser is another matter.

Take a good look at the engraving materials available from Rowmark and IPI.

[Dan Hintz]

I have cut it on a tablesaw, or sliding mitre saw, but not a bandsaw that I supposed would result in more heat.
Bill, I see no reason to think that. As long as you choose the appropriate blade specs, a bandsaw will likely give you a better cut than a tablesaw, less of a kerf, and give you the ability to make curved cuts. Corian really is wonderful stuff, very forgiving.

[Alfredo Moriel]

Bill, I see no reason to think that. As long as you choose the appropriate blade specs, a bandsaw will likely give you a better cut than a tablesaw, less of a kerf, and give you the ability to make curved cuts. Corian really is wonderful stuff, very forgiving.

Thank you guys for the info!. Dan, could you give me an idea of what specs I should be looking for in a blade if I were to use a bandsaw?

[Dan Hintz]

Dan, could you give me an idea of what specs I should be looking for in a blade if I were to use a bandsaw?
Definitely get a carbide-tippped blade. I'd probably start with a 4TPI hook tooth or a skip tooth... you could go higher on the TPI, but it will fill the gullets pretty quickly.

[Mike Null]

Dan

He's talking about re-sawing 1/4 inch Corian. Since your statement is rather general I am assuming you haven't re-sawed 1/4" Corian.

BTW, a Harbor Freight band saw ain't going to get the job done regardless of the blade. I am suggesting that such a re-sawing venture requires better equipment.

I would search for another similar material that is available in 1/8" thickness.

[Dan Hintz]

He's talking about re-sawing 1/4 inch Corian. Since your statement is rather general I am assuming you haven't re-sawed 1/4" Corian.
Yep, missed that, thought he was asking about blades for cutting to size, not thickness. My bad.

[Ken Dolph]

I actually resaw Corian for a few customers. It is not difficult though it is time consuming. I use an old craftsman 12" bandsaw. I like the Woodslicer blade by Higland hardware. I have broken 2 in 10 years and both were still sharp. I have found that the important thing is to have a fence that stops where the teeth begin. The heat and the relief of tension will cause the Corian to push away from the fence as it is cut. I cut 5" or 6" widths at about 1" per minute. I let the Corian cut and clear chips so I let it tell me the speed.

[Martin Boekers]

This may be out of the pricing range you are looking for, but that being said Corian ain't cheap eithr. :-)
This manufacturer makes custom colors, metallic etc in cast acrylic. This may be something you want to check into.

www.acrilex.com/press-metallic-acrylic-sheets.cfm (http://www.acrilex.com/press-metallic-acrylic-sheets.cfm)

Don't know what your use is or colors that you are looking for. Maybe a "Milk" Plex will work? Google Lithophanes
these are pretty cool and you may get some inspiration.

Marty

[Mike Null]

Ken

Are you resawing to 1/8" thickness? Having done a little resawing I can't imagine holding a constant thickness on 1/8" thick Corian.

[Ken Dolph]

I have held whatever thickness I am asked for. I am not the only one. I can't find them now but there was a company online that specialized in 1/8" Corian. I could not touch their pricing. I get orders form those who want it for guitar pick guards and some inlay.

I have not seen a jig like mine. It totally eliminates wander. It is simple. Wander is caused by speed and the reactivity of the material. Speed causes the blade to deflect and I must control that. Reactive material means that when it is cut some forces are released that will cause the out feed material to push against the out feed fence. For wood this is usually tension release alone. For Corian it is expansion due to heat and tension release. I have eliminated the out feed portion of the fence. It is of no use anyway. My speed and tooth count controls the heat.

I hope this helps.