Hook and Loop Mod

[David Nelson1]

Has anyone heard of or modified a 10/20 Performax to use hook and loop paper?

[John Gregory]

I have the same model. H&L would be nice. Hope someone knows of a way to do that

[Michael Weber]

It has been done. I thought it was posted here but I can't find it at the moment. Someone converted their 16/32 to hook and loop and really liked the result. A later poster to the thread mentioned a good source for the hook and loop material to use on the drum was an upgrade kit for one of the Grizzly drum sanders.
Sorry I can't find the post.

[Alan Schaffter]

You can buy the sticky-backed hook material to apply to the drum. The kit from Grizzly (http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5037) for their G1066 dual drum sander comes with enough material to convert two 6" diam. 24" drums and costs $28.95. Then, of course, you must use loop-backed abrasives.

[David Nelson1]

Thanks all! I've placed my order

[Michael Weber]

David, one other thing I recall from the previous discussion of this is that one end of the hook and loop sand paper must still be inserted into it's spring loaded holder or the paper will unwind. I believe it was on the end you start the paper on but was to leave the other end unattached since the rotation of the drum held it in place. That may be backwards, having a hard time visualizing drum rotation:confused:

[Anthony Whitesell]

That sounds about right to me Michael. (though I still use the standard paper) Standing at the infeed, the paper hooks on the left side and you roll the drum away from you to wrap the drum. That would cause the paper to unravel from the left/starting end.

[Jerome Hanby]

Another thing the hook and loop arrangement does (according to the discussions I've read) is it causes the paper to almost float above the drum due to centrifugal force. You might be able to use that to an advantage by taking very light cuts.

[David Nelson1]

David, one other thing I recall from the previous discussion of this is that one end of the hook and loop sand paper must still be inserted into it's spring loaded holder or the paper will unwind. I believe it was on the end you start the paper on but was to leave the other end unattached since the rotation of the drum held it in place. That may be backwards, having a hard time visualizing drum rotation:confused:

I saw that spring in the 1066 manual. I'll use a double row of tape.

[Don Buck]

I saw this "review" on Amazon.com (Performax 10-22, page 2 of the reviews) which got me interested in converting my 10-22 to the hook & loop. I did purchase the materials after searching online but side tracked the project when I started building my shop. Here is part of the review covering the hook & loop:

Both machines have been modified as follows: I found a source of PSA backed hard velcro in rolls of 3"widths. This was wrapped on the drums of both machines. Next was finding a source of three-inch wide hook and loop sandpaper rolls. Very obvious difference in operation...no belt stretching or belt loosening from the machine. Belt alignment is much better. The heat/burning problem has been considerably reduced because of the insulating factor of the velcro backing and the high speed drum. We have even clamped the standard belts over the velcro with very good results. We resaw wood to 1/8" plus flitches and run them through the sander with good results, especially curly-grained woods. In my shop it is now a dream machine.

[Alan Schaffter]

One thing about H&L on the drums- Luthiers don't like or use it because it makes it hard to control the thickness of thin strips.

[David Nelson1]

I can understand that!