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View Full Version : Need some ideas , see diagrams



Craig D Peltier
09-21-2011, 12:09 PM
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Hi I need some other ideas , you will notice on the overall layout theres two tall skinny boxes called sidelight. They will be two boxes about 12x88x20 deep. In the front I want to put leaded glass , then behind that either sandwiched to it or set back some frosted glass. Then behind that in the box put lights that backlight it. Thats where the issue comes. I need to be able to design this so the customer can get back behind all the glass to change the lights. So my initial thoughts were to hinge it ( the glass and face frame) from the top so it swings up ( someone else would have to hold it up) , when closed use male to female connector type that will hold the face frame (wenge) tight to the plywood box ( western maple). Then possibly throw a lock under the toekick to hold it tight down there.
The uppers on diagrams are 12 inches deep the lowers 20 inches but may be able to talk him into bringing the sidelights out to say 22 inches deep so its easier to mask the face frame line away from the other cabs and have a tight fit.
Any other ideas?
Second diagram is a top view, in the front ( bottom of diagram ) is the leaded glass, then behind it frosted. Glass size is specified on tha diagram 7 7/8 x 67 3/8

Thanks
Craig

Erik France
09-21-2011, 12:42 PM
I don't have much on providing access, but maybe something that will decrease the need for easy access. Our firm did some work on a building for a private car collection. In one area we had a bunch of curved front display cases we got from Italy for all his memorabilia. We designed some shallow back lighted pilasters to go in between them. I specified using LED ribbon lights connected to the low voltage transformers that also lit the display cases. I also recommended that the fronts be mounted on cleats top and bottom so they could be removed if the lights needed to be serviced or the glass cleaned.

I didn't get to see how they turned out though. I never got shop drawings from the millwork guy, then the job ended up going sideways.

Jeff Monson
09-21-2011, 9:53 PM
Would it be easier to hinge the glass and face frame to open like a door? I'd ck with blum to see what hinges they have available, a couple magnetic push style catches, that would be my route. A place to attach the hinge to the face frame is the main obstacle I see.

Kevin Presutti
09-21-2011, 9:55 PM
I don't know how far apart the glass is from each other but a door is not the answer, the reveal would be very wide. I think I would build a frame and use threaded brass inserts in the four corners and use like a 10-32 or even an 8-32 trim machine screw to hold the glass panel. Another option would be to use a stop board top and bottom. On the exposed edge drill through with say a 5/32 bit out near the corners. Flip the piece over and drill a flat bottom hole say 1/2 or 3/8 deep. Stick an Allen Head machine screw in the hole use appropriate length ( head must be able to travel unabaded in the so it can unscrew completely, Next take a plug cutter and cut a 3/8 plug, drill appropriate hole for machine screw to turn freely in, cut to proper length so the head of the bolt does not bind, then glue in flush to bottom. Use same brass threaded inserts and now you have a small hole that a common 5/32 Allen Wrench will loosen screws and remove glass panel. Another option is if you have a toe kick you could build the frame, mount both pieces of glass, then in the top rail you could pin it vertically, then through the toe kick on the under side, use 2 recessed machine bolts with threaded inserts on the bottm of the frame. But it definately looks like you are going to use some type of mechanical fastener, and hidden of course! Best of luck!

Jamie Buxton
09-22-2011, 12:06 AM
How 'bout making the leaded glass and diffuser as a panel that lifts up straight up to disengage it from the cabinet? You could use french cleat sort of things to hold it on the cabinet. Or the kind of hardware that holds bed rails to bed headboards and footboards. This approach has no visible fasteners, opens and closes without tools, and one person could do the job without a helper.

johnny means
09-22-2011, 8:26 AM
From experience, I can tell you that hinged doors will be the best way to go. While you're at it make sure to put in shelf pin holes and a stack of shelves that they can install. Once the novelty of turning on the light pillars wears off and they start looking for that extra space, they'll think your some sort of clairvoyant wood working genius, capable off foreseeing their future wishes.

Craig D Peltier
09-22-2011, 10:13 AM
Thanks for the ideas , I need to digest them and see what seems best and still easy enough not to spend too much time on. I dont think hinged will work due to the large face frame it will use if euro style hinges. All the other doors are just flat ply.

Jamie Buxton
09-22-2011, 10:27 AM
This page features an aluminum version of the French cleat. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10231&source=googleps&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Google From other suppliers, you can get long lengths of the same extrusion, so you can cut your own to whatever length you want.

Along the left side are some steel interlocking devices that do the same thing.

Craig D Peltier
09-22-2011, 10:38 AM
These would leave a reveal on the side of the face frame which I cannot have. Per the diagram the liteboxes are sandwiched in between other cabinets so I cannot due this on the back.
Thanks


This page features an aluminum version of the French cleat. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10231&source=googleps&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Google From other suppliers, you can get long lengths of the same extrusion, so you can cut your own to whatever length you want.

Along the left side are some steel interlocking devices that do the same thing.

Rod Sheridan
09-22-2011, 10:38 AM
My wife makes stained glass panels and I have set then into narrow stile frames that use a french cleat at the bottom, and magnets to hold the top in place.

It's amazing how strong that mounting system is................Regards, Rod.

Walter Plummer
09-22-2011, 5:16 PM
Have them pull out on drawer glides like the pantry cabinets so popular now. The lighting stays in the rear and you reach in and change lamps.