What's a good finish to try on pens, besides friction polish or CA ?

[dirk martin]

I've been using friction polish on my pens, and the finish is ok.
I don't want to get into using CA as a finish.
I want a high shine.

Suggestions?

[Marty Eargle]

Well, its hard to argue that CA isn't the best possible finish for small projects like pens...because of durability and high shine.

I don't make pens but I do make the occasional duck call. And while I mostly use CA, I have done a few in polyurethane when out of CA. Maybe you could try some thing coats of WOP with a coat of Ren Wax or EEE over them.

Also, any reason against using CA? I know some people don't like the fumes...but I will assure you, once you get a grasp on it, it terribly easy and mess-free.

[dirk martin]

Yeah, the fumes just kill me, plus I hate getting it on my hands when I make an occasional error.

What's the technique you use with CA, and how do you prevent gluing onto your bushings?

[Marty Eargle]

When I work with CA, I like to have a fan blowing at my back to push the fumes in the opposite direction. My eyes are bad enough as it is...CA fumes makes them water like crazy. I haven't really don't much pen turning, but I use the basic wipe on/sand off method for my duck calls and the sort. One of my favorite guys to watch on Youtube, Eddie Casteline, has a video on putting a finish on a pen that is quick, easy, and entertaining. I don't believe that he mentions the bushings in his video, but I would think that he puts on thin enough lays that a drop of acetone would be enough to break any bushing free. Check the video out if you have a few minutes...

http://youtu.be/_KMa_hWMMoM

[Michelle Rich]

poly is easy & you can have any gloss you want.

[Jeff Belany]

Take a look at the IAP site. Search for Doctors Woodshop Friction finish. It is a friction finish using Walnut Oil and supposed to give a nice satin, natural finish. I have not tried it yet but some seem to like it. You could also try a lacquer finish, either spray or the one that goes on like a friction finish but is much harder. There is also people who do the Enduro finish which is a WOP. You can check that out in the IAP library.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I'll probably get some static, but here goes. I use the HUT PPP polish, both the rough and the high shine. But wait... holster that flame thrower. That gives a good, fast but NOT durable shine. Not a great shine either. I then apply tung oil blend, not the pure tung oil that take forever to dry. That gives it pop and a long lasting shine. Buff. Works for me. If you want a high build, I guess you could add a couple coats of oil.
I have not tried CA. I do like the feel of the wood. I do get that patina of used wood, since the PPP and oil is not a perfect finish like CA would be. But I do like that.

[James Combs]

When I work with CA, I like to have a fan blowing at my back to push the fumes in the opposite direction. My eyes are bad enough as it is...CA fumes makes them water like crazy...

+1 on what Marty said. I have mine blowing across in front of me though.

As for keeping the CA out of my bushings I wax my busing before I turn and finish my pens. I apply a visible coat of wax all over the bushing, assemble it to the tube and mandrel, tighten the thumb nut and then turn. If there is any excess wax I simple wipe it off after assembly with a paper towel before turning. I apply the finish before loosening the thumb nut. Never have had a problem since waxing. Can't say that for before I started waxing though. Had several busings glued to tubes. Another alternative is to remove your metal bushings after the blank is turned to size and replace them with Delrin bushings. These are sometimes refereed to as finishing bushings. The finish (CA) does not stick to them. Check out the IAP site, some of the guys over there make them for sale. Waxing though is very easy.

[Jon Lanier]

Lexxan melted into acetone. You'll have to experiment with it.

[Montgomery Scott]

spray or wipe on lacquer. you can build it and end up with a very high gloss finish.

[Jim Burr]

WoP...check out the tutorial from Les Elm on a pen forum. I've used it several times and it is great!!

[Tony Maninha]

Hello,

Without spraying and after you apply a BSI or West System 206 or 207 to seal your pens, sand lightly with 320 and try this:
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat.html
No need to mix, high solids, no need to spray. Just use good ventilation and good foam brush, it is that good.

[Kurt Barker]

Greg Ketell posted a very nice SMC tutorial/post for finishing pens with CA. I can't seem to find it, but perhaps somebody else knows how and will link it here. If you decide to give JD & Marty's fan idea a try, consider reading Greg's article/post.

[Jim Burr]

Hate to be the the spoilier...CA or WoP are your best options. Any friction finish will last about 10 minutes in a high use environment...30 in a low use. Pens are a "hard use" item...CA is a "Hard use" finish...6 coats or so of WoP can work to.

[Lee Koepke]

I have actually dipped a pen in poly...I can find a picture or two, but I used a 1/4" atr with the threaded couplings on each end to secure the blank and added an eye bolt one end. Dip the pen, hang from peg hook overnight. Next day, I moved the eye bolt to the other end, repeat. Wait about a week to cure, MM until pleased.

[Harry Robinette]

Try Behlen Masters Woodturner's Finish. I have pens that are 9 and 10 years old and carried and used EVERY DAY and the finish is still there and protecting my pens very well. Keep the wood wet till it stays a little shiny when you remove the rag,then speed up the lathe or have it set at around 1200 to 1500 rpm to start and buff the pen in quick fast movements with the same place on the rag.At this point you'll get a shine and in just a second it will get really shiny STOP buffing.
I get mine from Woodcraft.
just my $.02

[Jack Gaskins]

Take a look at this You Tube vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVCir1Nw4XA&feature=related

[Greg Just]

you might try the new General Finishes wipe on finish designed for turners. It has just come out.

[Jim Leslie]

I switched to General Finishes Wood Turners finish. I used to use Shellawax, but this stuff is really good. I apply it on the piece on the lathe at about 350 rpm and let it run a bit. It is ready for another coat in about 6-10 minutes but is super hard the next day.
Sand a bit between coats especially the first coat; not so much after. Sprays well with an airbrush also.
http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/water-base-top-coats-sanding-sealers/wood-turners-finish

[Bernie Weishapl]

I just did some pens with the new Woodturners Finish that I picked up at woodcraft. Put 6 coats on in about 35 minutes. Sanded with 600 grit on the first 4 coats and 0000 steel wool on the last 2 coats. Came out with a nice glossy finish. I had been using WOP or lacquer burnished on.

[dirk martin]

I switched to General Finishes Wood Turners finish. I used to use Shellawax, but this stuff is really good. I apply it on the piece on the lathe at about 350 rpm and let it run a bit. It is ready for another coat in about 6-10 minutes but is super hard the next day.
Sand a bit between coats especially the first coat; not so much after. Sprays well with an airbrush also.
http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/water-base-top-coats-sanding-sealers/wood-turners-finish

I'm reading that it dries with an "amber tone".
I want a clear high gloss.

[Chris Barnett]

Cleaning the bushings with acetone and then waxing with plain furniture wax before use will prevent CA from sticking to the bushings.

[dirk martin]

Really? Even after I sand my blank, which inevitably sands the bushings too ?
Or do you do this furniture polish thing, just before applying the CA?