Ferrules for Making Tool Handles?

[Tom Hartranft]

RE: Alan Lacer's tutorial on tool handles for turning tools ... http://woodturninglearn.net/articles/forgottenhandle.htm

For ferrules, Lacer says that many turners use copper or brass plumbing couplings or nuts for their handle ferrules. He goes on to say that for brass nuts, woodturners turn away the flats on the brass nut using their HSS turning tools, creating a rounded ferrule. So, do you use your spindle gouge(s) to turn away the brass nut flats? If not, what do you use to turn away the flats? Scraper? Any words of caution on damaging my HSS turning tools doing this on brass nuts? Other experiences or thoughts on making handle ferrules from plumbing nuts or couplings?

While you are offering your thoughts specifically on ferrules, I welcome other insights on turning handles for chisels, carving tools, and turning tools and making homemade ferrules.

Tom

[John Keeton]

I bought a section of hard copper pipe, and find it much easier than trying to turn down flats on couplings! Simply cut a section with a tubing cutter and clean up the inside burr on both ends with a chainsaw file - 5 minutes and you are ready to put it on the handle.

[Marty Eargle]

I have also used 3/4" copper pipe. Cut to size, cleaned up a bit, heated with a torch and then hammered into place. I also dab just a bit of epoxy on the inside just in case. I have seen videos of brass nuts being turned down and I assume they would turn fairly easily with HSS...but I can't be bothered with the extra sharpening.

Just remember to take extra care with eye protection of you put turn anything metal on your lathe. All it takes is one small sliver and it could be lights out.

[John Keeton]

If you go with copper pipe, I would recommend getting a larger size and using it for all handles. You will want at least 3/16" inch all around the tool, and on a 5/8" gouge, that means a 1" inside diameter for the ferrule. I don't heat mine, though I guess that works. I just turn it tight and drive it on using a scrap piece of the pipe and a piece of wood. I usually cut a little recess at the shoulder to let it snug up. Haven't had any issues.

[Marty Eargle]

Of course, use the size piping to fit the size of your handle. I have only made two for a thin parting tool and a small hex wrench hollowing tool that I improved. Both times, I have turned a few inches of the handle stock down to fit the pipe and then turned the rest of the handle after the ferrule has cooled. I have never tried doing it without heating the pipe first...but I suppose that it could make little difference. I just went on the old principle of expansion and contraction. Not much of a science to putting one on a handle though...as long as it works in the end.

[Greg Just]

I have used both copper pipe and brass fittings. With the brass nuts, I just round the corners over a bit and don't remove the entire flat. Here is a picture of a few tools I have made.

[Harry Robinette]

I do the same thing John K. does except, when I install the ferrules I put the ferrule end on the floor and hit the but of the handle with a wood mallet. It does one thing if the handle cracks I didn't wont it anyway. I had one crack while using it and have done the ferrule this way sense.Hope this helps.
just my $.02

[Bernie Weishapl]

I do like John. Went to the plumber and pick up a piece of 1" copper. Cut it when I need it.

[Marty Eargle]

Here is a great set of very detailed videos on how turner Gary Mertl makes his handles. It is, for the most part, the inspiration for how I made mine. Except mine aren't as well done.

http://youtu.be/L0Yh5AKDJk8

All of Gary's videos are worth a look...he is very talented at breaking down his projects step by step.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I prefer aluminum tubing because it is color coordinated with my HSS tools, except for my Thompson tools. For those that I don't use in an interchangeable handle, I have used metal blueing, similar to gun metal blueing, and color matched the aluminum fairly close to the oxide of the Thompson tools. We old photographers are VERY color conscious ya' know!:p

[John Spitters]

I use copper pipe couplings http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?172440-Handled-Properly generally 3/4" size but that will depend on the tool being handled, I've also done some with the brasss couplings but unless you come across them for free they are a bit expensive.

John

[Bruce Lundgren]

I used a brass coupling for my Thompson gouge and screwed it onto the handle, mounted it on the lathe and at low RPM filed the edges until it was round. Took awhile but I was pleased with the look. Was too affraid to use a HSS tool and figured I'd ruin the tool trying.

[Nathan Hawkes]

RE: Alan Lacer's tutorial on tool handles for turning tools ... http://woodturninglearn.net/articles/forgottenhandle.htm

For ferrules, Lacer says that many turners use copper or brass plumbing couplings or nuts for their handle ferrules. He goes on to say that for brass nuts, woodturners turn away the flats on the brass nut using their HSS turning tools, creating a rounded ferrule. So, do you use your spindle gouge(s) to turn away the brass nut flats? If not, what do you use to turn away the flats? Scraper? Any words of caution on damaging my HSS turning tools doing this on brass nuts? Other experiences or thoughts on making handle ferrules from plumbing nuts or couplings?

While you are offering your thoughts specifically on ferrules, I welcome other insights on turning handles for chisels, carving tools, and turning tools and making homemade ferrules.

Tom\


Tom, I've done this a few times before, only because I found a few old brass fittings like this in the tool box. I just use a 1/4" hollowing bit. Brass is very soft, and doesn't damage the HSS at all. I honestly haven't tried it with a gouge, but will do so next time; I have another fitting that I got from replacing a faucet in the bathroom. On my hollowing scraper, I have a "medium" angle; maybe 60deg?? At any rate, it hasn't chipped my tools; it just needs to be done pretty carefully. The brass shavings come off pretty hot so a glove on your left hand might help. It does take a while, and you do need to resharpen once or twice, but a nice shear cut is possible once its turned round. I turned the speed way up for sanding; you can almost get a polish with fine sandpaper.

[Quinn McCarthy]

I bought a Skew chisel from Alan at the show. It was his bigger model with better steel. I made the handle as per his article and got a coupling at menards. I didn't turn the coupling I just left it nut like and buffed it up a bit. Looks great I think. I really love that new skew chisel. Well worth every penny.

Quinn

[Steve Vaughan]

Great ideas all up and down this thread! I've used the brass nuts and to knock the corners off and get it round, I just use a file rather than my HSS lathe tools. I don't use the file as you might would a scraper, but I put the handle with the ferrule mounted on it, on the lathe turning at a couple 100 or so rpm, and hold the flat of the file on the piece until it gets round, working the corners first and gradually moving back toward the wood. Worked well so far and using it as a file and not as a scraper (as you would a real lathe tool), you don't have to worry about breaking the file. Eye protection absolutely a must!

[phil harold]

Any words of caution on damaging my HSS turning tools doing this on brass nuts?


No damage to your tool.
Think about it, your tool Is High Speed Steel designed for cutting tools: drills, taps, milling cutters, tool bits, gear cutters, saw blades to machine steel
So using your tool on brass or copper is like butter compared to steel.

I prefer the look of brass
I buy brass nipples for ferrules cut them to length on my bandsaw

I thing there are some exotic woods that are harder than brass, lignum vitae for example...

[Thom Sturgill]

Another vote for brass. I like the look and its fairly easy to turn. I used some older (cheap) tools and a file and slow speeds. A while back I bought a couple of kiln dried cherry blanks that came with brass ferrules. The price was right and I like having stock on hand. The ferrules worked well and look nice too. Tapered on the inside on one end with a preformed dimple, just drive them on. They were much thicker than copper pipe and brass is stronger too.

[David DeCristoforo]

Every time this comes up I have to chime in to say I like to use bronze bushings.

[Scott Hurley]

When David Ellsworth gave a demo at our woodturning club, he said he makes his ferrules as large as possible, and then wraps them with strong twine and CA glue. I tried one, and it seems to be working fine.

[Tom Hartranft]

Appreciate the numerous, varied, and helpful posts sharing your experiences. Collectively, you've given me a variety of sound approaches to adapting ferrules to my tool handle-making.

Thanks.


Tom

[Mike Davis NC]

I use brass fittings, screw them onto the wood and cut the corners with a carbide cutter in my Oland tool. Brass is much stronger and looks better than copper.

[Montgomery Scott]

I buy C330 .75" OD .62" ID tubing in 6 foot lengths and cut it on a metal lathe. It has a near polished finish so it takes very little time to make it shine like gold and it is dirt cheap per piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Round-Tubing-0-620-Length/dp/B00137SIXU/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1316638392&sr=1-1

I made these handles and used the brass tubing on them.

208133

[charlie knighton]

copper while down week, is still high, occasionally you can pick some up cheap at estate sales, usually stuck in box with bunch of odds

craft supplies sells brass tool handle ferrules in two sizes; fall/winter 2010/2011 issue page 15 bottom left

[Edward Bartimmo]

It all depends on the type of wood. Brass, copper, aluminum, and steel. During the past 12-months there was an article in one of the turning magazines that featured a turner and all his obsessions on ferrules. He used all kinds of odds and ends and resulted in some interesting personalized handles.

As far as turning down a brass nut or flat sided ferrule...it is easy. Yes, HSS will cut it. However, I really don't like dulling up a nice gouge. Instead I would recommend two tools to use: (1) Tool with HSS cutter as in the straight cutter used in most hollowing tools or (2) heavy guage scrapper.

If you want a fun project you can make a dedicated HSS cutter tool for these types of uses. I went to my local automotive store (Autozone) and bought a 3/8" socket for a 1/4" wrench. You will find brands of sockets where they have recessed the corners, which are best since this is area most likely to bind when sliding a 1/4" square HSS cutter into the hole. You will need to anneiling the socket - heating it up with a propane torch (MAP gas) and let it slowly cool down in order to soften the steel enough so that you can drill a hole into it. I drilled and tapped a hole into the 1/4" side of the socket for a set screw to hold the cutter in place. Turn a handle and drill a hole to fit the OD of the socket. Epoxy the 3/8" side of the socket into the hole. If you pick one of the longer length sockets you can tuck away extra length of HSS cutter into the handle and as you loose material from sharpen the cutter you have extra that you can extend out. The 1/4" HSS cutters are readily available at most machinist supply shops for about $2.50 each. You want the square profile - 1/4" x 1/4" x length (2" - 3" is standard length)

If you don't want a project and don't want to use your straight bar hollowing tool then get a pair of vise-grips and a length of HSS cutter stock... and as my country friends would say "go to town with it"