Do router bits really get stuck in solid wood holders?

[Ken Platt]

Folks -

I'm finishing up a new router table, made from a design in Bill Hylton's Router Magic book. The bit storage will be in two narrow drawers to either side of the space for the router itself. In the book, he makes the bit holders from solid wood, and just bores 1/2" diameter holes to hold them. I've heard that the bits can get stuck if the wood swells but wasn't sure if that was true, so I thought I'd post and see if anyone has actually had that happen to them. I was planning to make the bit holders from softwood, if that makes a difference (just using up some 2x4 scraps). I realize I could make the holes oversize, but the bits will be sitting at an angle off vertical (30 degrees off), so I don't want them loose in the holes.

There are some nice bit holders at Lee Valley, but at $7.50 each, I'll end up putting $40 into bit holders, and as much as I like giving money to LV, my, um, thrifty soul rebels at the notion. (Besides, I really really want that new big shoulder plane:D)

So, any thoughts on shopmade router bit holders? Easy ways to hold them snugly in oversize holes? Or just use the softwood and don't worry about it? Thanks -

Ken

[Gary Curtis]

Don't know. I made the same same router table from Hyland's book. But I didn't bore holes in wood to hold bits. Instead, I used a plastic fixture I got from someplace. The problem is, if you were to use some lubricant or wax to prevent seizure, then the same bits might spin in the collet when you are using them. Not good.

[Dave Zellers]

Why would they fall out at 30º if oversized by 1/64? Fighting to pull a sharp router bit out of it's holder is crazy. My home made holder is drilled at 33/64 but it sits in a drawer, flat.

If you drilled them deep at 33/64 so they dropped all the way down to the cutter, I'd think they would be fine.

[Jerome Stanek]

Would freezing the wood before you drill it work. I made mine out of Sintra

[Cody Colston]

I used MDF for the bit holders in my router table. No problems with sticking.

If you want to use solid wood, check the humidity. If they are made on a day with high humidity, the wood will not expand but will shrink (if it does either).

[Larry Edgerton]

I use AZEK. It does not pick up moisture like wood will on a long damp spell, and so the shanks stay rust free.

I put it in the freezer and drill with a 1/2" bit. AZEK shrinks and expands quite a bit and this worked for me. I like my bit trays snug because I move them to job sights at times.

Larry

[Dave Aronson]

On mine I drilled holes the next size up and glued a backer board to the bottom of the board with the holes so the bits sit in 3/4"

[Gil Knowles]

Ken
The Lee Valley plastic bit holders I use work quite well and at 6 for $4.00 the price is good.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50697&cat=1,46168,46180
The brass ones are $2.70 a piece and while would be nice if you have a lot of bits it gets a little pricey.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=56500&cat=1,46168,46180

Gil

[Dan Friedrichs]

I drilled mine exactly 1/2", and they can be a pain to wiggle free.

[Stan Mitchell]

One more option: I drilled mine to 1/2" (didn't want to buy a one-time use bit) then took a round file and a little sandpaper to them to loosen them up a bit.

I admit that there was some work involved but the bits fit tight enough not to wiggle, but go in and out with ease.

[Bill Huber]

I just throw my in a drawer, they rattle around a little but it was easy ......:rolleyes:


Just kidding, I stated out with wood and then I made a much larger drawer and when to the High-Density Foam and have been very happy with it.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v499-5001/storage_and_organization

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[Phil Thien]

I went with holes that are 1/64" over. I found a good deal on a brad-point 33/64" bit at Woodcraft.

I keep all my bits (router bits, four sets of spiral drill bits, and carbide-tipped Forster bits right out in the open. I got so tired of opening cases or boxes, etc., I wanted all the bits to always be at the tip of my fingers, without becoming disorganized.

[Jim Rimmer]

Lots of good suggestions here. But to answer your original question, if you make the holder out of soft wood the bits will get stuck. That's the voice of experience. I don't know about making it out of hardwood or other materials but mine stuck in softwood.

[Tom Walz]

Bill Huber,

You got me.

I have been following your posts here for quite a while and was shocked at your answer.

Then I read the rest.

Tom

[Jim Neeley]

I've been told to use a 13mm bit, which is larger than 1/2 but smaller than 33/64, but either should work.

1/2 = 0.5000"
13mm = 0.5118"
33/64 = 0.51625"

It depends on how much "wiggle room" you want. :-)

[Kevin Presutti]

You can buy a sheet of phenolic and never look back. A little pricey but very stable. If you have more than 100 router bits and want enough space so that you can see and pull the 1 out you need, make a dedicated drawer and use MDF. If you wanted to be fancy before you drill it put some plastic laminate on the top. 1/64 over will save your finger tips;)

[Ken Platt]

Thanks folks, this thread probably did save my finger tips, and some frustration. I can glue up some mdf and use that instead of solid wood.

Ken

[glenn bradley]

I also do not like to reach into a little forest of sharp pointy things and grab stuff by the sharp end . . . I use these:
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They fit here:

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[Mike Delyster]

I used MDF and drilled the holes 1/2" and 1/4" with a forstner bits. I havn't had any issues with stuck bits.
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[Bob Potter]

Hello Ken

I made mine out of 3/4 plywood which shouldn't swell or shrink.

Bob

[Myk Rian]

I've heard that the bits can get stuck if the wood swells but wasn't sure if that was true,
Of course it's true. Make the holes 1/64-1/32 oversize.

[David Hostetler]

I drilled mine to 9/16" and wish I hadn't, but 1/2" was too tight, and I don't have a 33/64" bit... I might just have to order one... I liked the suggestion I saw above about drilling the hole, then using a round file to relieve it some...

[John Nesmith]

I don't know about solid wood. I used large and small squares of BB ply. I used cheap 1/2" and 1/4" drill bits that were oversized slightly.

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[Lee Schierer]

It seems hard to understand, but you really can't put a 1/2" shank in a hole that is exactly 1/2" even in metal if you plan on getting it out again. You need a little clearance for the shank to fit in. Drill your holes slightly oversize (1/64-1/32") and you will be much happier with the results no matter what material you use.

[Kirk Poore]

Instead of trying to find a 33/64 bit for your 1/2" shanks, you might try 13mm. I build chairs using a pivot point with 3/4" dowels through a 20mm hole, and it works fine.

Kirk

[ray hampton]

instead of press -fit for your bits , drill the hole over-sized [thru - hole] and glue a sheet of magnetic rubber to the holder

[Josiah Bartlett]

Drill a set of square holes with a hollow chisel mortiser, then the bits won't get stuck but they will still be firmly gripped by the hole. The square hole lessens the surface area holding the shank and allows air to pass the shank when you pull out the bit.

[Bill White]

I used some scrap Corian from a countertop job. Works like a champ. And, if you can find a countertop shop in your area, you should be able to pick up some off cuts for free. Drill it with a brad point drill.
Bill

[mike holden]

Mike,
That is a clever way to ventilate the router door.
Mike

[mike holden]

It seems hard to understand, but you really can't put a 1/2" shank in a hole that is exactly 1/2" even in metal if you plan on getting it out again. You need a little clearance for the shank to fit in. Drill your holes slightly oversize (1/64-1/32") and you will be much happier with the results no matter what material you use.

Lee, You mean my 1/2 inch drill bit does NOT make a 0.500" hole? (grin). Obviously you have a machining background and under stand that drills make holes larger than their diameters. Proper way to get a specific hole size is to drill undersize and ream to finished dimension.
But we are talking about wood and routerbits, the tolerances here are likely +/- 0.005" on the shafts and bits so, the result is from an interference fit to 0.010" slop, then moisture and temperature changes and.....how many angels dance on the head of a pin (grin).

Mike

[Mike Delyster]

Thanks Mike, I got the idea from an issue of Fine Woodworking, issue #211 "Four Ways to Make Panels Pop". It seems to work good and looked different than holes or slots cut in the door.