Bandsaw advise

[Jack Gaskins]

Im looking for some good advice from you guys. I have gotten into woodturning in the past couple of years and found that I need to take a log that is from lets say 8 inches to 20 inches in diameter and about 24" long on the big suckers and 36 inches long on the smaller diameter logs and slab off various thinknesses. I have been doing this with my chainsaw but am wanting to start doing it with a bandsaw so that the end result would be a smoother more evenly round turning blank or square spindle turning squares. I have a Grizzly GO555 that I use for small stuff which will soon only be set up with 1/4" blade and cool blocks then a carter stablizer for scroll work.

I want a large BS for slabbing logs and bowl blanks. I have searched around and am looking hard at the Aggazzani B18 / B20 (quoted at $2675 for B18 and $2875 for the B20) or the Hammer N4400 (on sale for $1875). The MM20 is higher than the B20 ( quoted $3750 ) so I am not going to consider it. I have looked at the Grizzly 514s and the Rikon 10-350 but thought that since i can afford a quality BS I might as well make it a good one. Not that the Grizzly or Rikon arent good but the Aggi B20 is said to be a far better machine. Now I have also been looking at the used saws also and while there have only been a few near me I have found a 2003 Tannawitz model 6100. The Tanni is 24" and 3 phase which I am working out of a 3 car garage so I only have single phase hook up. It might be overkill for what I need but it is a large heavy quality saw and the seller is only asking $1850 and it looks to be in very good condition. Would only need a VFD upgrade to run it on 220 single phase.

I guess since I have no experience in resawing Im not totaly sure what size machine I truely need. I know that I want to buy a little oversize in case I need to have it. I watch these guys resaw on a 14" saw and they make it look so simple but my experience has been just the oposite so hince the purchase of a large quality saw with the best blade, guides and tension mechanism I can afford. Sorry for the long post and thanks for reading.

[Gary Herrmann]

Hi Jack. I've got an MM16 that I like a great deal. I'd like to have a bigger saw, but my shop is too short. I don't think you can go wrong with an Aggazzani either.

Are you really going to be resawing the logs or just cutting the pith out and then cutting them into turning blanks? On occasion, I've needed more than 16" of height, but not too often. I generally cut the pith out in the field and then cut a flat on the opposite side to make it easier to round on the bandsaw.

That said, I recently found out about a very large white oak tree that came down near me, but I don't know anyone that could slice up a 42" diameter log in their shop...

[Jack Gaskins]

I have enough space for a 24" bandsaw but that is pushing it. But the Tannawitz this guy has is big and only 8 years old but I would have to put a VFD on it to make it work for me and I could get it for about a grand less than the Aggi. ? Just dont know.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hello Jack, my wife often comes home with chunks of log for turning and this is how I handle it with a 17" saw with 12" of cutting height.

I normally cut a piece to length, then split it in half with a splitting wedge.

Once I have the piece split Diann roughs it out to an approximate circle on the saw.

With 12" saw height, that means she can effectively make a bowl blank from a 24" diameter log.

Diann has never needed anything sawn into slabs for turning.

I saw short logs into slabs, up to about 15 inches in diameter by squaring them on the saw first, which reduces their height.

If you have room for the Tanny, go for it. A VFD isn't that expensive to add as you're aware.

Regards, Rod.

[Prashun Patel]

Jack-
I'm kind of in the same boat. My G0555 with riser cuts 'good enough' but sometimes has to struggle. I want more cowbell too.

However, even if I had 24" of capacity, personally I'd never be able to heave much larger blanks onto the bandsaw than my current 12" capacity saw can handle.

If yr primary purpose is cutting blanks, I'd find the saw that has good hp, table size, and guides. (all of these are lacking in my G0555 for 11" tall oak logs).

FWIW, i'm looking to getting a small, electric chainsaw and a beefy, 1" bowl gouge. I think these two things will allow me to not have to take a lot of logs to the bandsaw in the first place. Dealing with those wet shavings and the mess on the wheels and blades is not very fun for me.

[Jamie Buxton]

If you're talking about cutting a log into slabs.... You want to have wood touching the table right at the blade. If you attempt to cut a slab off the side of a tree trunk, with the center of the trunk well away from the blade, the blade is going to be trying to pull the wood down to the table, and so it will be trying to rotate the trunk. For slabbing, you need to mount the trunk to a carriage system that carries the trunk through the blade, and holds it upright. You can build such a system, or some suppliers (e.g. Laguna) sell them.

But if you're making bowl blanks, Rod's approach above gets around this issue. He makes a flat surface on the log by splitting it manually before he bandsaws it.

[Phil John]

If you want the extra capacity and can afford the $, wouldn't the Agazzini B20 be ideal? Did you look at the G0531B as well - it has 14" of cutting height.

[Jack Gaskins]

If you want the extra capacity and can afford the $, wouldn't the Agazzini B20 be ideal? Did you look at the G0531B as well - it has 14" of cutting height.

Yeah the Aggi would be ideal. But even thogh I can afford it I still have a hard time letting go of the money when I think I can get by with something a little cheaper. Thats why I am have a hard time deciding on the Aggi or the Tanni. The Aggi will be around $3100 shipped to my door and the Tanni with vfd will run me about $1900. The Tanni is a little bigger in all specs on the aggi but is 8 years old. Dont know if that means anything. I looked at the Rikon and Grizzlys and they would probably but just havent gone back to take a harder look at them. Didnt help that Jessie at Eagle tools sent me all those freakin emails with photos of the B18 and B20..............The guy over at Minimax only sent me a little info and made it seem like he didnt really care to much if I bought from him or not.

[Cody Colston]

If you are wanting to resaw lumber up to 12" wide or slice lumber from 8" - 12" diameter short logs, then an 18" bandsaw is a good investment.

If you are planning to slice up a 20" diameter log, I think a bandsaw is the wrong tool. You need to stick with the chainsaw or use a band sawmill instead.

The 18" bandsaws only have a resaw capacity of around 12". That's not gonna "cut it" on a 20" diameter log. Also, you must get the log in position for cutting. I've resawn quite a few logs on my 17" Grizzly and a 12" x 3' green log is about as much as I want to manhandle. I can't imagine lifting a 20" x 24" log onto my resaw table.

On those bigger logs, you will probably have to plan on continuing to square them with the chainsaw or taking them to a sawyer to have them cut into manageable cants.

[Jack Gaskins]

If you are wanting to resaw lumber up to 12" wide or slice lumber from 8" - 12" diameter short logs, then an 18" bandsaw is a good investment.

If you are planning to slice up a 20" diameter log, I think a bandsaw is the wrong tool. You need to stick with the chainsaw or use a band sawmill instead.

The 18" bandsaws only have a resaw capacity of around 12". That's not gonna "cut it" on a 20" diameter log. Also, you must get the log in position for cutting. I've resawn quite a few logs on my 17" Grizzly and a 12" x 3' green log is about as much as I want to manhandle. I can't imagine lifting a 20" x 24" log onto my resaw table.

On those bigger logs, you will probably have to plan on continuing to square them with the chainsaw or taking them to a sawyer to have them cut into manageable cants.

Reading through all the bandsaw threads makes it hard to decide on what you really need. Most that have purchased an 18" will say they wish they got the 20". Dont know why though. I dont plan on resawing 20" logs into slabs that is for the sawmizer across town to do. But I figure that a good 16 inches under the bearings should be all I really need and that is on the plus side. I was only looking at the Tanni becuase it looked like a lot of saw for less than a new Rikon 20" or Grizzly 19". The Aggi B18 is $2695 plus shipping and the MM18 is like $3495 plus shipping. Im not a Luthier or a furniture maker so needing a precision resaw machine probably isnt on the top of my priority list so a Laguna 18HD is over kill........HUMMMMMMMMMMMMM what to do.

[Jack Gaskins]

If you're talking about cutting a log into slabs.... You want to have wood touching the table right at the blade. If you attempt to cut a slab off the side of a tree trunk, with the center of the trunk well away from the blade, the blade is going to be trying to pull the wood down to the table, and so it will be trying to rotate the trunk. For slabbing, you need to mount the trunk to a carriage system that carries the trunk through the blade, and holds it upright. You can build such a system, or some suppliers (e.g. Laguna) sell them.


But if you're making bowl blanks, Rod's approach above gets around this issue. He makes a flat surface on the log by splitting it manually before he bandsaws it.

What do you think about this bandsaw?
http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/2608682325.html

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Take look at this http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/2607809390.html Mini-Max 20" Tom

[Jack Gaskins]

Where is Appleton?

[Jack Gaskins]

Take look at this http://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/2607809390.html Mini-Max 20" Tom

I offered the guy $2200.

[David Kumm]

The saw is in central Wisconsin about 1 1/2 hours from me. Let me know if you need info or help. Dave

[Jack Gaskins]

Sure looks like a long way to drive for a bandsaw though.....It looks like about an 8 hour drive from Indianapolis.

[David Kumm]

I would guess a little less, 6-7 hours assuming hwy 41 so open from Milw to Neenah. About 1 1/2 hours from Milw. If the tanny is close I would go that route if condition is good. If the MM was also a 24 it would be a tough call. Dave

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Well, if it makes you feel better, I drove 8 hours to Phoenix for my Unisaw and 8 hours to Denver for my Inca Jointer Planer.... I think 8 hours for a bands of that caliber is well worth it, but then I live out west where we think driving 50 miles for a nice lunch is sensible!Good luck!

[Jack Gaskins]

I would guess a little less, 6-7 hours assuming hwy 41 so open from Milw to Neenah. About 1 1/2 hours from Milw. If the tanny is close I would go that route if condition is good. If the MM was also a 24 it would be a tough call. Dave

To late, I just bought the MM20 with a HF dust collector for $2200. Told the owner I would drive up Saturday to pick it up. The best thing is my father in law lives in Janesville WI whick means we can pay them a visit and spend the night if we want.

[David Kumm]

The MM is a very heavy machine. You won't be disappointed and did fine on price. Good score. Dave

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Of all the saws discussed, MM is the only one that uses a chain to raise and lower the guides. Far superior to the sawdust filled rack and pinion found on most others. You'll rarely have to re-align the guides changing height. Congratulations on a GREAT saw. I love my MM24.

[Gary Herrmann]

I drove 10 hours round trip for a combo sander. Sometimes a long drive is worth the trip. Congrats.