Glue-up question for poplar

[Regis Galbach]

I need to glue togather 2 lengths of 1x2's of poplar for legs to get the size I need (1 1/2 sq). I will cut them down to actual size and then cut a very slight taper.
Therefore; the glue joint must hold up the the sawing. My question is will the glue joint hold up. I do have a biscuit jointer if that would make a big difference on these 19" long legs.

I wish I could have found 2" poplar in the area but, it is not happening for this simple table. If the model turns out good, then I'll buy oak (more choice in stock).

Thanks,
Regis

[Dale Coons]

Regis, most wood glues are stronger than the wood they bind. You shouldn't have a problem if you have good coverage.

[Mike Henderson]

I've glued a lot of poplar and I don't find it any different than any other wood. And if you do a good job of gluing, it will be stronger than the wood itself.

Mike

[glenn bradley]

+1, what they said ;-)

[Regis Galbach]

Thanks all

Regis

[Peter Quinn]

Welllllll, poplar glues pretty well, but the glue for face laminations sure makes a difference. Regular PVA glues are pretty soft, or elastic really, and they tend to allow the wood to
"creep" or move every so slightly with changes in humidity. This is often visible at the glue line after finishing or painting, sometimes after you have completely finished the piece. This would be tite bond original or a similar yellow glue. But the "brown" PVA glues like tite bond type II, or better yet III, cross liink and form a much harder glue line that while still a bit elastic relative to very hard glues (like plastic resin or epoxy) is certainly IME better than the type I glues. One thing to keep in mind is that it takes 72 hours for that brown PVA glue to cross link, so face laminations really need to rest a while before you proceed for best results. On the down side, the glue line obtained with dark glue is perhaps too dark for some lighter woods in a stain grade, so keep that in mind.

I find if you can rip a single board in half and fold it on itself it tends to creep less all things being equal give it tends to move in a relatively similar manner to its other half, being it is now all from the same stick.

The biggest problem I can see is that 1X2's glued up to 1.5" don'tt leave any room to flatten or otherwise surface, so you will have to pick some pretty flat 1X2's and squeeze them hard so they conform, but not so hard that all the squeezes out, which is a tight line to walk. Not much danger really for a prototype or mock up situation, but maybe no the strategy to take for the final product?