Cutting non-ferrous metal

[David Klug]

What is the best blade to use for cutting non-ferrous metal, such as brass, on the table saw?

DK

[Jim Dunn]

Carbide! But a cheap one.
Don't use your Forrest wwII, that would be a sin before the ww gods.

[Mike Holbrook]

I just went to work on my table saw's factory splitter yesterday, reducing it down to something worth using. My Bosh jig saw with a medium- fine metal blade cut curves through it a whole lot faster than I thought it would. Jig saw blades are pretty cheap.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

A cheap carbide blade will make very clean cuts through brass. Just be sure to check the teeth often, because if you are missing one it is a danger.

[Jim Becker]

Freud and others make a blade designed specifically for non-ferrous metal cutting; carbide with a tooth configuration that is more like the "triple chip" grind that is best for things like melamine, etc. But for minor work...any "old" carbide blade will do! Dust collection OFF, however!!!

[JayStPeter]

I agree with cheap carbide. Cuts Al and brass like butter. I use a cheap 80 tooth miter saw blade with negative hook angle for non-ferrous and plastics. Using more aggressive blades requires lots of care. If you are going to do it often, Freud and Forrest both sell non-ferrous specific blades.

Be careful to either clamp the piece or at least have a good solid grip against a fence. A spinning blade catches the metal a little easier than wood. Also be careful of the offcuts. A little vibration will cause them to move right into the blade. DAMHIKT. If you use a miter saw, let the blade stop before lifting.
Using your DC is also not a good idea. No hot metal in a bin of sawdust.

Jay

[Joe Spear]

I agree it is best to use a blade especially made for cutting non-ferrous metals. I have a Freud 10" with a low hook angle. (It may be a negative angle, but I can't check right now.) You don't want an aggressive blade angle that will grab the metal and bend down the edges. You want something that will abrade it without pulling on it too much. I have cut sheet brass sandwiched between two sheets of 1/8' hardboard with doublestick tape. I have also taped it to just one sheet of hardboard. It doesn't seem to make much difference. I tried it once without the hardboard--just the
brass-- but it slid under the rip fence and just didn't feel safe. I also have used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade, but you have to clamp it down tight, and the cut is more ragged. A bandsaw blade (8 to 10 tpi) works well, particularly if you are cutting tight curves. I didn't attach it to hardboard for bandsaw cutting. Just pay attention to where your fingers are. Remember that the metal can get hot and is also sharp. I had to adjust some of my handling habits when some little cuts reminded me that I wasn't working with wood, which is generally more forgiving to hands sliding over its edges. A belt or disk sander with 120 grit paper is helpful for smoothing and rounding the metal edges for safe handling and appearance.

[Rick Lizek]

What is the best blade to use for cutting non-ferrous metal, such as brass, on the table saw?

I've done a lot of non-ferrous and use a negative hook blade designed for this. I've cut brass up to 3" thick. Not all that different from cutting wood but approach is cautiously and use your standard safety devices. A full face shiled is beter than glasses as the chips are warm.