I have got a lot to learn about hand cut dovetails...

[John Dingman]

Well this is my first attempt at em:

http://www.johnswoodshop.us/Images/First%20Hand%20Cut%20Dovetail%20004.jpg

The pic makes it look better than it actually is. :rolleyes: I have to learn what side of the line to stay on. Being a power tool junkie for so many years, I am a little clumsy with the chisels. I damaged some of the tails trying to clean them out. But I learned a lot and I am looking forward to my next attempt tomorrow, and then again Saturday. I am going to practice until I get it.

It was a refreshing experience to have no noise in the shop the entire time I was in there, except for the sound of a hand saw and some banging on the chisels.

Leif, thanks for the saw!!! :D And Walt Quadrato and Bob Smalser thanks for the chisels! This was a great learning experience for me.

And thanks for all the encouragement gathered on this forum!
John

[Roger Myers]

John...Great first set! It only gets better and better! And yes, the quiet (or in my case, some nice music) is a real benefit.
Keep em coming!!

[Jim Dunn]

I'd say not very much John!! Those look terrific. Much prettier than machine cut tails. But where's the rest of the box?? Ohhhh, I get it, your making 90' cuts for corner glue ups;)

[John Scarpa]

Last fall on a trip to Italy I stayed in an 18th century hotel that has been in the same family for 4 generations. The room was filled with antiques. I couldn't resist photographing the dovetails on a chest of drawers. When we look at these we have to ask ourselves if we are trying to make ours too good. If you look closely you will see that the saw cuts extend beyond the tails in some cases.

[Jim Dunn]

John, I don't think they use glasses or razors over there either.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I noticed that about most antique furniture. Not only are the dovetails not "perfect", almost anything that dosn't show is left rough. I think we do try to make thngs too perfect at times, but then this is a hobby and not a vocation for most of us. BTW John, yours look pretty good.

[Keith Christopher]

Only time I think it matters to make the dovetails VERY accurate (no chips, or tiny gaps) is when they're an exposed detail. The ones you make look pretty good from my viewpoint. No matter how many I cut they're still is always adjustments. but you know a little sliver of the same wood can do wonders for filling any gaps ! Keep it up, that's on heck of a first try !



Keith

[Roy Wall]

John,

Congrats on a great start.....I"ve been "butchering" several corners lately and have yet to get them as nice as your first set....keep it going -- I think you're already there - but I can appreciate one's own critique -.......well done!!



John S.,

A great point made on antique furniture..........and the cosmetic concerns we all have.....

[Mark Singer]

John,

They look great ...and nice proportions!

[Steve Wargo]

Last fall on a trip to Italy I stayed in an 18th century hotel that has been in the same family for 4 generations. The room was filled with antiques. I couldn't resist photographing the dovetails on a chest of drawers. When we look at these we have to ask ourselves if we are trying to make ours too good. If you look closely you will see that the saw cuts extend beyond the tails in some cases.
John, One of the reasons that the Dovetails look like that is because the Europeans look at the dovetail as a working joint. It's strong and practical. It seems that only the Americans and English have really turned it into a "wow, look what I can do" What you've photographed is not uncommon at all in mainlaind European furniture.

[James Mittlefehldt]

One of the reasons I am into woodworking is because I wanted to emulate the dovetails on antique furniture. However after I learned the process and how to lay them out etc. I noticed that when I went back and looked at the antiques I doubt very much that even on the drawer fronts there are very few if any corners where the original craftsman did not over cut usually on the inside part.

One thing I have noticed lately, many antique shops around here have been buying in furniture from England and Europe made in the 20's and the drawers still have hand cut dovetails even though the rest is mostly machine made, I doubt that much North American stuff has this feature from the same time, unless it is very high end made by a single craftsman.

I think we are often too hard on ourselves as those are probably 100% better looking than the first ones I cut, I keep that piece in my shop to show where I started and the newer ones look pretty good by comparison. Show that drawer or box, to anyone and I bet they will never notice the small defects that shout at you John.

Great first time John keep up the good work, repitition is a great teacher, and the lack of mechanical noise is really nice to, you can actually hear the radio.

[Karl Laustrup]

Look mighty fine to me, John.

In the not to distant future I want to start doing hand cut dovetails, maybe I should venture down to Racine and get a hands on lesson or two.:)

[JayStPeter]

Better than my first attempts. Of course, my first attempt made me realize I needed to buy a DT saw from someone other than the borg. :eek:
My first attempt with decent tools is coming soon. Hopefully, they'll turn out as well as yours.

Jay

[Tom Scott]

John,
Nothing wrong with those, especially if they are your first try. They definitely look usable to me.

Tom

[David Fried]

John,

I couldn't find a picture of my first attempt. I probably was too embarrassed to take a picture! This was my second attempt back in July. Not as nice as your first :(

The good news is my third and fourth got better and better so keep at it, you're off to a great start! This one was after I got my Adria DT saw. What a joy!

And yes, they do seem to look better in the pictures than in person.

Dave Fried

[Mark Singer]

As I said they look great. The typical weaknesses are sawing straight and scribing very accuratley. Then saw on the waste side. Those 2 points will improve almost eveyones dovetails. Don't use a pencil to scribe....use a marking knife or awl.

[David Fried]

As always, Mark is right :p . When I went to trace the pins onto the future tails I realized why they sell right and left handed striking knives. I ended up with the Veritas since it is sharpened on both sides. It made the scribing much easier and I could see improved results since the lines were more accurate. Nothing like the right tool for the job.