Shaper Recs?

[alex grams]

I am looking at my next tool purchase, and trying to decide which route to go.

I have been considering a shaper (Grizzly G1026 3 HP) as I have been doing more moulding/panel work lately (plus a power feeder, since I had a nice little router table accident earlier this year and took a chunk out of the end of a finger). My router table works fine for smaller profiles and such, but for larger profiles i have been unhappy with it, as it doesn't deliver the smoothest of cuts and doesn't have the power I would like. I would still do smaller profiles on the router table, but panels/etc would be on the shaper). I really like the idea of also being able to use my larger router bits on the shaper, both as a cost saving measure, and as a safety measure. I figure the Grizzly G1026 3hp shaper with a power feeder and mobile base will run $1600-$1800, depending on which power feeder I get (which seems like a whole other thread/discussion, but I will broach it here)

In regards to the power feeder, Does the 1026 have the mounting holes? I didn't see any. Is there another mounting method I am overlooking?

Thoughts?

[Jeff Duncan]

My recommendation would be to see if you can pick up either a Delta HD or even better a Powermatic 26/27 on the used market. Many used shapers will come with a feeder, or if not at least be drilled out for one already. Of course drilling and tapping the holes is pretty simple and quick to do anyway. I've seen several other methods for attaching but never really understood why one would want to?

good luck,
JeffD

[Ron Bontz]

If I may put in my 2 pennies on the shaper subject. I have a Delta 5 hp, (no power feeder). It is great when you have a bunch of raised panels / doors to do as well as edge mouldings. But by far I prefer the little shop fox 7" moulder/planer for larger face profiles. Although I sometimes wish I had bought the W&H. With regards to using larger router bits, you will have to slow down the feed rate because of only having 2 cutters instead of 3 or more. The Delta is only 7,000/10,000 RPM compared to a router table. It's all about cuts per inch. Ultimately it comes down to the type of profiles you are cutting, the amount per run, etc. And you will still find yourself making little jigs for safety even with a power feeder. I have seen a few power feeders with chewed up wheels from cutters. Now that I have made your choice as clear as tar, best of luck to you.

[Tom Hargrove]

I think the move to a shaper is a great idea, especially for raising panels. Even 1/2" shaft router bits don't have enough steel in them to prevent flexing under the load, and the motors are also taxed with the bigger cutters. I would try to find a used machine on the secondary market since they can often be had with a feeder and also with some tooling. I would not use a shaper for raising panels unless it had a feeder, but that is just my preference. I respect those that do, but I don't have the heart to have my hands near the cutter when that much wood being removed.

Chewing up a tire on a feeder is part of the learning curve, so be sure the feeder you buy has replaceable tires.

If you buy new, boring and tapping the holes in a cast iron top is not a big deal - I find it easier than working in steel. The tables are not pre-bored because the feeder bases are not universal in size and shape.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Alex, router bits are going to spinning at less than optimum speed in a shaper, which will increase the risk of kickback.

I would suggest going with the shaper and running shaper tooling in it.

I use a Euro head with HSS knives, the finish is superb and the cutter speed is correct, which maximises your safety.

If you do get an insert head and want to hand feed the material, purchase one with chip limitation. There's a reason the EU no longer allow non chip limitation cutters for hand fed applications.

Cutters are marked MAN or MEC depending upon the feed use. You can use MAN cutters with a feeder or fed by hand, MEC are for complete power feed operation only.

I have a Hammer B3 Winner which has a 4 HP tilting spindle shaper, with sliding table and a feeder. I use it a lot and do not own a router.

I suggest that you purchase The Spindle Molder Handbook, it's the only up to date shaper book I've found....................Regards, Rod.

[Stephen Cherry]

All great advice so far.

Here is a video of an scmi t130:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVSquC3SrsE

This machine is massively more rigid than the griz. The difference in the streangth and rigidity cannot be overstated. And when turning a big cutter, size matters. I've got a leitz corrugated insert head, which is similar to the indexed euro heads, but will take deeper profiles and holds the blades by corrugations in the blades, and it is HEAVY. Also, as mentioned by Rod, good sence makes this a power feeder operation only.

Also, used, used, used. The shaper you need is out there for dirt cheap. I got my two delta HD shapers for 300 dollars. ANd a scmi t110 with delta feeder for 800.

[J.R. Rutter]

Here is a video of an scmi t130

Nice belt squeal on the second panel, lol.

[jim mills]

[QUOTE=Stephen Cherry;1777973]Also, used, used, used. The shaper you need is out there for dirt cheap. I got my two delta HD shapers for 300 dollars. ANd a scmi t110 with delta feeder for 800.

Wow, I beg to differ, have you browsed the used machinery market lately? Resellers have inflated used machinery prices to near new prices, and they don't seem willing to negotiate. It's ridiculous. Oh, im sure someone will chime in with a story of a once in a lifetime deal they just got, but its definitely the exception, and not the rule...

[Stephen Cherry]

[QUOTE=Stephen Cherry;1777973]Also, used, used, used. The shaper you need is out there for dirt cheap. I got my two delta HD shapers for 300 dollars. ANd a scmi t110 with delta feeder for 800.

Wow, I beg to differ, have you browsed the used machinery market lately? Resellers have inflated used machinery prices to near new prices, and they don't seem willing to negotiate. It's ridiculous. Oh, im sure someone will chime in with a story of a once in a lifetime deal they just got, but its definitely the exception, and not the rule...

Jim, I've seen these dealer prices, and agree, they are high. You need to buy where the dealers buy- auctions, craigslist, woodweb, etc. If you search craigslist with searchtempest, you can cast a wide net. I've bought machines several hundred miles away, and would not hesitate to do it again. Also auctionzip, bidspotter, and even fleabay. And here is a big hint:

THE HOLIDAY SEASON WILL HAVE SOME EQUIPMENT GO FOR REDICULOUSLY LOW PRICES. I think that this is zigging while others are zagging, but I have gotten my best buys on commercial quality machines around the end of the year.

If you look every day, and this only takes a few minutes, you occaisionally find fantastic deals. They won't come up every day, or even every month, but they will come up.