Going to a shaper. How many HP do I really need.

[Matt Mackinnon]

In balancing my options. I am looking to replace my cabinet saw with a slider. What does this have to do with a shaper?? I am evaluating a Hammer B3 that has a shaper built in, or going to a far less expensive route.

I currently use a router with a table for all my needs, but have been told that a shaper is far nicer to use. Looking on the Grizzly site, they have shapers starting at 1.5hp and going up to 7.5hp. In my price range, the G1035P is the most attractive, with the G1026 having double the HP and price.

How hard is it to stall a shaper making a cut. The thought of more power is good gets lost on my at some point. I can see the benefit for getting a reasonably large enough motor as taxing it reduces it's life, but there must be a happy point where you are paying for what you will use, and not simply throwing money to the wall.

What is really required?

Thanks for any input on this matter.

Matt.

[Carroll Courtney]

In my mind,I would reverse the question and ask how small of a motor can I go on a shaper.Most of the LD shapers (older models 1/2 spindle and 3/4 spindle) will start out 1/2hp and go up.I have one shaper that has a 3hp and another that has a 1hp and no problems at all on either one.I think that hand feeding material through a shaper 1hp is fantastic,but if I had a power feeder then 1.5-3hp or greater if in a cabinet shop.Keep in mind that these are real hp ratings and real motors and not like the 5hp shop vacs that you see at big box stores(selling points).If in a "Blue Moon" situation does come, just slow down the feed rate.Good Luck on either purchase and post pics---Carroll

[johnny means]

IMO, 3 HP is minimal for real shaper cutters. Anything smaller will not be up to the task of spinning a large raised panel cutter or a tall pattern cutter. I once owned the 1026 and think it is an excellent value. Solid, no nonsense machine. I currently own a B-3, 5 HP, which I also think is a fine machine, though not as great a value.

[Stephen Cherry]

I think that you need first to think about the profiles you want to use. Talking about a hypothetical "shaper cutter" is like talking about a soda- they go from 8oz minis to 44oz jumbos.

I've got two shapers that I occaisonally use, one is a 1.5 hp Delta, and the other is about 5 hp scmi. The delta actually works surprisingly well, much better than I expected it would, but the 5 hp cuts better and faster. The scmi is much, much, much more rigid than the delta. The scmi can turn som pretty large cutters.

I've never used a bigger shaper, but the high production machines seel like they have 9 or more hp. In a production setting, I think that the idea is to cut big chips fast, and this takes power. Cutting slower rusults in less production between sharpening because so many more cuts are required per peice.

My impression, 5 hp with a 1.25 spindle gives you power, and mass that the smaller machines do not have. And of course, I only buy used. That way if you don't like it, it won't cost you your shirt. Just my opinion.

[David Kumm]

In addition to the type of cutters you need to think of the wood you intend to shape. I did raised panels in Mahogany on a 3 hp shaper and it did quite well. Oak, Hickory, Maple put a lot of stress on the quill. Remember that with the larger motor comes a stouter quill assembly and fence. Multiple passes are not easy on a shaper although you can do that. I would get a used 3-5 leaning towards the 5 rather than a smaller new. I went from a 3 to a 10hp felder so I am biased to size matters. Dave

[Chris Fournier]

I think that Stephen's well thought out response would most closely match my feelings about this subject. I have a MM combo and the motors are all 6.8 hp and it seems to be plenty for the work I do. If you can stall a shaper, very bad things will have happened!

[Paul Symchych]

Too many unknowns in this equation. If as you say a router table satisfies your needs don't forget that the HP rating for shapers is real HP and not the WAY WAY inflated "HP" of routers. You will be impressed with the difference. I have the small Jet shaper [1.5 HP, bought used] and it satisfies me but only you know about your use.
These HP discussions always make me think of the buying a Ferrari to drive to the grocery store syndrome.

No matter what, as Stephen said, look for a used machine. There are always a bunch for sale on my local CL. Some are heavily used production tools and some semi-virgin. I got mine from a hobbyist who used it to build one set of hickory cabinets. Use the money saved for cutters.

[Rod Sheridan]

I had a 3 HP machine, now I have a 4 HP machine, both have been fine.............Rod.

[Brad Shipton]

I owned a 3hp yrs ago, and the power was ok for the size of cutters I used at the time. The downside of that machine I found was the table and mass of the machine was a little too small to mount a 1/2hp or larger power feeder. I now have a 4hp Hammer shaper and I like the added mass as well as the extra power for the larger cutters I now use. It also has a nicer attachment for the cutters. I think the decision also boils down to the space you have. A large machine becomes very difficult to move if you need it on wheels to conserve space.

Brad

[Peter Kelly]

No matter what, as Stephen said, look for a used machine. There are always a bunch for sale on my local CL. Some are heavily used production tools and some semi-virgin. I got mine from a hobbyist who used it to build one set of hickory cabinets. Use the money saved for cutters.

Well said. If you're used to buying router bits you'd better prepare for some sticker shock when it comes to shaper tooling, particularly if you have a machine with an odd-sized (1 1/4") or metric (30mm) spindle. Pick up a used Delta HD if you can and save the rest for cutters and a stock feeder.

[Cary Falk]

In my opinion, buying a shaper with less than 3 hp is like buying a full size pickup with less then a V8. Why would you? To me, the mininum definition of a shaper is 3 hp. I woud stick with a router table otherwise. I have the G1026 and find it is a no frills shaper that gets the job done.

[ed vitanovec]

I have used a 3HP shaper for 10 years now and I would say 3HP is minimum power. The largest cutter I use is a 5" diameter raised panel cutter and it will bog the motor down if I take to deep of a pass. Make sure your shaper has a decent size table, mine is a little on the small size and it makes a difference when cutting the larger panels. Also in my opinion the shaper is the most dangerous tool in the shop when using the larger cutters, be careful.

Regards!
Ed

[Jeff Duncan]

If I had to randomly pick a number I think I'd agree that 3 hp is a minimum for general purpose shaper work. Once you get into bigger moldings and interior doors and such, than I think 5 hp is your min entry.

Shapers that run 7-1/2 hp and up are usually production machines and can handle a lot of work. If your running stock for an 8 hour shift, a bigger motor is going to run cooler and last longer than a smaller motor. If your running really large diameter cutters, like tenoning discs for instance, your running slower and need more power to plow out a lot of meat.

For someone starting out in the shaper world I think the Delta HD w/ a 3 horse motor is a good entry level machine. If your a little more ambitious than the Powermatic 27 w/ 5 hp motor is a stouter machine that can handle a lot of work. Personally I would look for one of these in good used condition over either of the models you listed....but that's just me.

good luck,
JeffD