Rasps for saw handles and totes

[Mark Baldwin III]

Looking for insight on good rasps for shaping handles. I have a few rasps right now, but none of them are really that good for shaping a handle. Auriou rasps are a bit on the pricey side, but I may be able to justify getting one (emphasis on ONE). Also, if I were to get one, which would be a good one to go for? Tools for Working Wood has the nifty curved rasp in their stock, and I have considered getting it. If there are some less expensive options, or a particular rasp that anyone likes, I'd sure like to hear about it. Thanks!

[Bob Smalser]

The Nicholson #49 and #50 are the standard. Wait til they go on sale at Jamestown or Highland. Otherwise you should be collecting old machinist files (large ones) of various shapes at flea markets and even on eBay. They work well on wood long after they are worn out on steel, and make a great transition between rasps and sandpaper.

I use rasps often, but feel no burning need to spend a hundred bucks+ on one. I think that's ridiculous.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7081299/93859833.jpg

[Tri Hoang]

The curved rasp from TFWW is probably the best rasp for your applications. You can also use carving knives (for bulk removal) and card scrapers (cut their profiles as needed).

[Chris Griggs]

The Japanese Iwasaki carving files work quite well. Highland and Woodcraft sell them. Even the extra fine are quite aggressive. Here's a review of one I've used on saw handles: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?169344-Review-of-Iwasaki-Carving-File-It-s-really-starting-to-grow-on-me&highlight=

[David Weaver]

The gramercy rasp that's especially for handles. If you only get one, get that one.

[Ryan Griffey]

I have three of the Gramercy rasps and I love them. I also have the Nicholson 49/50 and they get the job done. What you get for the money in the Nicholson rasps doen't compare to what you get from the Gramercy rasps. The Nicholson rasps from Brazil are overpriced. I bought them when I didn't know any better.

However, if you have the money do feel a burning need to spend a $100+ on one. To support a craft industry of handmade tools is brilliant to me.

[Klaus Kretschmar]

Mark,

the fine shaping of a handle will be done with the Gramercy saw handle maker's rasp in the best way. It's not only the fact that it's curved what makes it that handy. The fine tip which is properly toothed also enables you to do some more difficult shaping work e.g. a lambs tongue. On the handle making this tool is a must IMHO.

The rough shaping will be done quicker with a coarse rasp or with an Iwasaki carving file which I prefer.

Klaus

[Mark Baldwin III]

Thanks for the recommendations! It looks to me like the Gramercy rasp is the winner. Secretly, I was hoping it would be! The Auriou rasps are out of my league, I have a gazillion ways that I could spend that extra money.
I've been slowly working up a collection of various old rasps and files, but this is the one case that I was looking to fill with a specific tool.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Microplane has a selection of rasps that work really well and are very economical. Unlike most of the rasps, it takes little chips out so there isn't that fine dust, and the tool doesn't clog up. They're made in the USA, and like most US-based tool makers, they actually back up their products.

I got this set (http://us.microplane.com/microplaneshapingraspintroset.aspx) for twenty bucks and was really impressed. The tiny one is good for really tight radii like the top of the saw handle but you have to be careful with it. The other two are good for hogging off most of the initial stuff. I also got a couple of these (http://us.microplane.com/hacksawblade.aspx) and put them in an old hacksaw frame. I like them the best because with the hack saw frame you can control what you're doing with both hands.

I usually finish up with the Grammercy sawmaker's rasp, which is just excellent, and some sandpaper. You can also do a lot of initial trimming with a wide, very sharp chisel, which also leaves a nice surface.

[Bob Smalser]

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/prodimg/gt/big/GT-SHRASP_big.gif

While the Gramercy looks sweet for your purpose, albeit expensive at 50 bucks, it is a fine-cut rasp. To avoid the chipmunk effect, you'll need a coarser rasp like the #49. Jamestown is running a sale on Nicholsons like I mentioned above. 33 bucks.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2778&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=nicholson_49_rasp

[Zach England]

If you are only going to get one I would get one that has a round side and a flat side. The nicholsons do, but they are very coarse. The gramercy rasp mentioned here is smooth on the back side. A coarse mill file can substitute for a flat rasp.

[Zach England]

Are the "microplanes" mentioned here the same thing I use to grate hard cheese and make lemon zest?

[Chris Griggs]

I agree with Bob, the Nicholson 49 work pretty well for the rougher work, I really like mine. The 49 is also pretty reasonably priced, it cuts pretty fast , and doesn't gouge up the work. The current 50s however, are often significantly more expensive. In terms of bang for buck I think the current Brazil made 49s that Bob mentioned are a good buy - not as nice as a premo rasp, but a good tool nonetheless. I think you could get by just fine with the Gramercy handle makers rasp (I really want one), and one inexpensive courser tool - either a Nicholson 49 or a half round (note: these are only one-sided) Iwasaki Carving File

[Tony Shea]

Def get the Gramercy rasp, you'll be very pleased. But like has been said, you'll need something elese to do some hogging. I also have become a huge fan of the Iwasaki carving files. They cut very aggressively and leave an almost crazy smooth surface for the amount of material they take. Round out that Gramercy rasp with some coarse Iwasaki files in different sizes. YOu'll be very happy with the value these files present.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Are the "microplanes" mentioned here the same thing I use to grate hard cheese and make lemon zest?

Pretty much. I think they were originally made for wood working, then someone got the idea for kitchen use. Bit of overkill when you use one on cheese or an orange. Their website has separate areas for woodworking and culinary stuff, which I think has finer teeth. I also have the Japanese plane rasps, which are similar in use but need to be cleaned out.

I also tried a round Stanley Surform, but whether they don't manufacture them the same or they were never all that great in the first place, it didn't seem to do so well. Kind of a shame because it's just about the right diameter and length for the part of the saw where the thumb meets the hand.

I understand that after Nicholson started making 49s in Brazil, the quality deteriorated so much that TFWW stopped stocking them. I've tried the Auriou rasps at a wood working show, and they're very impressive. I wouldn't be surprised if TFWW's store brand cabinetmaker's rasps are an excellent value; I think they're made by the same guy who does the sawmaker's rasp. I pick up rasps whenever I see good ones at flea markets and such. Got a bunch of barely used US-made Nicholson cabinet files for $2-$3 apiece, couldn't believe my luck. There are dozens of different types, and don't make them like they used to. So much to learn!

[John Coloccia]

Pretty much. I think they were originally made for wood working, then someone got the idea for kitchen use. Bit of overkill when you use one on cheese or an orange. Their website has separate areas for woodworking and culinary stuff, which I think has finer teeth. I also have the Japanese plane rasps, which are similar in use but need to be cleaned out.

I also tried a round Stanley Surform, but whether they don't manufacture them the same or they were never all that great in the first place, it didn't seem to do so well. Kind of a shame because it's just about the right diameter and length for the part of the saw where the thumb meets the hand.

I understand that after Nicholson started making 49s in Brazil, the quality deteriorated so much that TFWW stopped stocking them. I've tried the Auriou rasps at a wood working show, and they're very impressive. I wouldn't be surprised if TFWW's store brand cabinetmaker's rasps are an excellent value; I think they're made by the same guy who does the sawmaker's rasp. I pick up rasps whenever I see good ones at flea markets and such. Got a bunch of barely used US-made Nicholson cabinet files for $2-$3 apiece, couldn't believe my luck. There are dozens of different types, and don't make them like they used to. So much to learn!

re: Surform
No, they're not made like they used to be. The current Surform is good for things like foam, drywall, filler and soft woods like spruce. I've found them pretty unimpressive on harder woods. YMMV.

[john brenton]

The long sureforms are alright on woods going up in density to about honduras mahgoonoy in my experience They still aren't a good tool, but they'll remove waste without leaving a hairy surface. Its those little handled curved ones that absolutely stink. I can't get anything out mine and it is as John said, an occasional user on remodels for removing a little sheet rock.

[Mark Baldwin III]

I have my doubt's about the cheese grater thingies. I stopped to look at them at the store, but I figured a purpose made though more expensive tool would be a better value over time. Unless I'm salvaging files from my dad's basement or getting used ones at the flea market, I want to get in the habit of buying a single quality tool one time. I have 20 to 30ish various files and rasps so most tasks are covered.
I do agree with Bob, old metal files do a pretty nice job smoothing wood. Let's hope that sale price on the 49's last until the next time I have tool money!

[Andrew Gibson]

I have the gramercy saw handle makers rasp as well as a couple vintage Nicholson rasps. I really like the gramercy and will eventually acquire a few more of them I think.

I also have a few micro planes, and they work on certain wood, but they are to large to be helpful on shaping things such as handles and totes.

[John Powers]

The chevy Corsica I lost in hurricane Ivan on the west branch of the Delaware was a swell car. I love my forester. I have old American made Nicholson rasps that are still just fine BUT......you will never regret buying that curved rasp from tfww. It's really made for sculpting wood not just removal. You can live without it but tomorrow I'll be rowing with bob smalser oars that have comfy grips shaped with that overly expensive rasp. Nicholson #50 from Jamestown to south jersey with handle $4.41 less than the tfww rasp with handle.

[David Weaver]

I don't like the nicholson 49 and 50 so much for saw handles. The radius on the round side is too flat. It's not a bad rasp, though, even though the quality is not great compared to what it used to be.

I like LV's half round rasp in 8" (presumably it is hand cut in the third world somewhere), the one with the black plastic handle. As long as it isn't the final rasp, it cuts deep, the teeth on it are fairly sparse (allowing it to cut deep) and it has a satisfying bite and a fairly tight radius on the half round side. I have put mine across a lot of macassar ebony and cocobolo and it still cuts deep.

Simonds half-round metal files in double cut - big ones - also work well as cleanup tools, and they should be cheap. I don't know if anyone would ever dull one on wood, but boggs tool can fix that if you could manage it.

The (Gramercy sawhandle maker's) rasp is still far and away the best cleanup and final shaping tool for saw handles, though. I would be almost 100% sure that if old-world makers only had straight rasps available, they figured out how to bend them at the tip and quench/reharden them.

[Klaus Kretschmar]

...The LV rasp is still far and away the best cleanup and final shaping tool for saw handles, though. I would be almost 100% sure that if old-world makers only had straight rasps available, they figured out how to bend them at the tip and quench/reharden them.

David, what LV rasp you are referring to? Or did you mean the TFWW rasp?

Klaus

[David Weaver]

Er, sorry Klaus - I meant the Gramercy rasp. I'll go back and edit that to fix it.

[Bryan Schwerer]

Has anyone used a Grobet rasp? I know a lot of people like their files for saw sharpening, but I have never seen review of the rasps.

[Rob Lee]

(Snip)

I like LV's half round rasp in 8" (presumably it is hand cut in the third world somewhere), the one with the black plastic handle. (snip)



Only if you count Czech Republic as third world.... :)

I'm personally a big fan of the Iwasaki files. They require a light touch, and so are not as much for hogging material, but they sure let you work a surface cleanly...

Cheers -

Rob

[David Weaver]

gahhh!....I thought for the price, that maybe they were made somewhere cheaper than that.

[Jonathan McCullough]

I've seen online that people seem to like Dragon Rasps (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Files/Dragon_Hand-cut_Rasps.html) as well. Anyone have any experience with those?

[John Coloccia]

I've seen online that people seem to like Dragon Rasps (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Files/Dragon_Hand-cut_Rasps.html) as well. Anyone have any experience with those?

I have some Dragon Rasps. It's a very nice rasp, and is ideally suited to things like carving the heel on a guitar neck. Unfortunately, the exaggerated taper makes it a very poor choice for general work, in my opinion. I would much rather have an Auriou for general work.

[Bill Rittner]

I have made a lot of plane totes. My first rasp was a Nicholson #49. This is a good rasp, but I found it to be too wide and not pointed enough for the inside curves. Also, TFWW stopped selling the Nicholson #49 & #50 because of quality problems. After a long search I settled on the Gramercy half round 6 1/2" 18 TPI. I love this rasp. It works far better than my old nicholson.

[Bill Moser]

To avoid the chipmunk effect, you'll need a coarser rasp like the #49.
OK, Bob, I'll bite :) What the heck is the "chipmunk effect"? You can't possibly be talking about the high-pitched chirping sound they like to make whenever I'm around :rolleyes:

[John Coloccia]

Only if you count Czech Republic as third world.... :)I'm personally a big fan of the Iwasaki files. They require a light touch, and so are not as much for hogging material, but they sure let you work a surface cleanly...Cheers - Rob

Excellent description of the Iwasakis, and I really love mine too. The light touch really turns a lot of people off, and they can be very grabby, but the surface finish is ridiculous.

[Bob Smalser]

OK, Bob, I'll bite :) What the heck is the "chipmunk effect"? You can't possibly be talking about the high-pitched chirping sound they like to make whenever I'm around :rolleyes:

Using too fine a tool for rough work, whether saws, sharpening stones, planes, files or rasps. A common mistake that wastes time and wears out the more expensive fit and finish tools.

It's a close relative to the farmer poisoning his fields because if the county agent's recommendation of 2 tons of fertilizer per acre is good, then 4 tons must be twice as good.

It's also fairly common among professionals on a different level. For example, there are no shortage of boatbuilders who, in regards to wood, believe drier is better and tighter is better, and shorten the life of their hulls by refusal to learn the relationships between wood moisture and how tight caulking is driven or the rivets set.

[Andrew Teich]

A quick question by another raspless guy. It seems to me that the Grammercy's are a great value. How would one purchase the right courseness. Auriou uses grains, Grammercy uses TPI, others just say course or fine or nothing at all(like the LV handcut rasps). 25 TPI is the finest Grammercy, so that would be similar to 15 grain. They also have 18, 16, 11 and 8TPI. Where would those fall. I am looking to try my hand at shaping handles on some tools, replacement plane totes and to try turning a replacement plane knob on the drill press.

[Ryan Griffey]

Andrew,

Email Joel at TFWW. In the past he has been very helpful at answering questions for me. The Gramercy rasps are a good value.

[Zander Kale]

I've seen online that people seem to like Dragon Rasps (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Files/Dragon_Hand-cut_Rasps.html) as well. Anyone have any experience with those?
I have both half round Dragons and love them (I like the fine cut best). I use them for making saw handles, toted planes or general shaping (since I'm not very good with chisels). I also really like microplanes. I have two Iwasaki's but dislike them for anything but very hard woods (too grabby).

[Jonathan McCullough]

I have both half round Dragons and love them (I like the fine cut best). I use them for making saw handles, toted planes or general shaping (since I'm not very good with chisels).

Good to know. The conical shape looks like it would be useful in a wide range of applications and it appears to be a good value as well.

[Bill Dieckman]

Another option cheaper than Auriou would be the Liogier (http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffler.com/) rasp lines.
Hand stitched, cheaper, and a broader line to choose from.

[David Keller NC]

Another option cheaper than Auriou would be the Liogier (http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffler.com/) rasp lines.
Hand stitched, cheaper, and a broader line to choose from.

Considering thath the company's in France, sells things in Euros (for which you will have to pay a currency conversion fee), I'm sort of wondering how much cheaper than Auriou they would actually be, particularly if you only wanted one.

[Andy Margeson]

I have the TFWW rasp you mention and really like it. I end up using it for all sorts of curved work. It's worth the money.