Best Way to Join Hardwood to MDF?

[Charlie Barnes]

Good Morning Everyone,

I am building a new workbench for my shop. The top is made of 3 layers of 3/4" MDF. I'd like to put a hardwood "skirt" around it to dress it up a little bit. I'm planning to make the height of the skirt equal to the thickness of the top (around 2 1/4"). What's the best way to join the hardwood to the MDF? Just glue? Screws? If screws, what kind? Thanks.

Charlie

[john bateman]

Wood glue will do fine.

Screws would be driven into the edge of the mdf, which does not give very good holding power.

[Jerome Hanby]

I used glue and deck screws. I counter sunk the holes a small amount just to avoid anything I could snag on sliding past it. I'd put a layer of glue all along the edges of the MDF as sizing as a first step. MDF is so thirsty, it just soaks up the glue and tends to starve the joint. Let that soak in a bit them glue it up again and add the edging. I used screws mostly for clamping pressure and alignment. I didn't bother removing them, but I suspect the glue would hold the edging just fine. Biscuits might be a better choice to help with alignment if your setup permits easy access for clamps. My application was shop furniture and the screws didn't detract from the appearance for my taste, and the screws let me get on with the project without waiting for the glue up to dry.

[Craig Michael]

I would set it up so the top drops into the hardwood frame and attach it from from underneath with screws. Then you can replace the mdf when it gets beat up and isn't a good surface anymore. Similar to a festool MFT table. To me mdf is sacrificial.

[Jerome Hanby]

I would set it up so the top drops into the hardwood frame and attach it from from underneath with screws. Then you can replace the mdf when it gets beat up and isn't a good surface anymore. Similar to a festool MFT table. To me mdf is sacrificial.

I've done similar, except I left the edging a bit proud on top and used a piece of tempered hardboard to cover the top. That top is pretty easy to replace...

[Charlie Barnes]

I would set it up so the top drops into the hardwood frame and attach it from from underneath with screws. Then you can replace the mdf when it gets beat up and isn't a good surface anymore. Similar to a festool MFT table. To me mdf is sacrificial.

Craig,

That's actually what I was planning to do with the top layer (float it). I glued and screwed the bottom two layers to each other and the bench frame. The frame will trap the top layer and hold it in place. So actually the hardwood frame will only be attached to these bottom two layers. Since I do have access to all 4 sides at this time, it sounds like I can get away with glue and clamps.

Jerome - thanks for the tips on sizing with the double application of glue.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Charlie

[Gordon Eyre]

I glued my edging on and have never had a problem. It has been in use this way for eight years.

[Neil Brooks]

Glue and screw, in my world, and ... where MDF is concerned ... I'm partial to Spax screws, sold at McFeely's and other suppliers.

[daniel lane]

I've done similar, except I left the edging a bit proud on top and used a piece of tempered hardboard to cover the top. That top is pretty easy to replace...

+1. I built a very simple modular outfeed table / workbench using softwood ply for base cabinets and 2 layers of 3/4 MDF for the top with a layer of hardboard inset into a ridge of pine edging. Drilled a finger hole in the middle front and just poke the hardboard up to replace it when necessary. I used biscuits and glue to attach the pine edging, and it's been solid since day 1.


daniel

[Kevin Stricker]

I would drill pocket holes into the top of the middle sheet then attach it with pocket screws and glue. Oversize the edging and once the glue dries drop in your top sheet and flush trim the edging to the top of the MDF.

[Trent Shirley]

I agree with the others, if using MDF then leave the top layer loose to swap it out easily.
Rather than attaching a skirt to the table could you not make the skirt part of the frame with a rabbit below to support the MDF?

When I built my router table I dadoed the hardwood skirt and rabbited the top and bottom of the MDF which provided a lot more glue surface. No screws needed. MDF tends to split with screws into the side and with screws going through the top or bottom it tends to dimple causing the piece you screw into to not sit very flat.

I still think making a frame to set the MDF into is the best option. The MDF is heavy and it will sit nice and flat just set into the top. If you are making it two layers anyway, if the top ever needs replacing you can just swap it with the bottom and go twice as long without buying more MDF.