Buffing MIstake

[Edward Bartimmo]

Alright...I made a rookie mistake while doing a run of small project items. Apparently, somewhere during the steps leading up to buffing (turning, dying, epoxy, etc) i FORGOT THE FINAL STEP OF APPLYING A FINISH. That's right...I did such a fine job sanding the tool handle that I failed to notice there wasn't any finish on it. I spent soo much time on this llittle handle that I have already named it. I am pretty sure that I would notice sending my child off to school without their clothes... HOw did I not notice it on this little handle.


On a positive note the wood took a wonderful shine from the Bealle buffing system. Let's say that I would like to place a protective coating one the handle. Other then the obvious - sandpaper, any suggestions on ways to remove any wax coating from the bufifng process?

Thanks

[Steve Schlumpf]

Denatured Alcohol (DNA) will remove the wax quite easily or you can use mineral spirits. Looking forward to seeing your named handle!!

[David E Keller]

I'd give some serious thought to leaving it unfinished or at the most applying an additional coat of oil and/or wax... I guess I don't really like slick and shiny when it comes to tool handles. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

[George Clark]

I make a lot of tool handles and buffed and waxed is one of my favorite finishes. I use it frequently.

George

[Paul Heely]

I agree with David. A tool handle that is just waxed and buffed will pick up your own natural oils and should get a nice patina and feel over time.

Paul

[Hilel Salomon]

I know several turners who simply put triple EEE and then wax on their finished pieces. I do that with small bowls. Sometimes natural is the way to go. As for "rookie mistake," could it be that you liked the way the handle looked ?

Hilel

[John Keeton]

I usually spin a couple coats of de-waxed shellac on my handles and then buff them with steel wool. Seems to leave a nice surface that has just the right amount of "grab" for a handle. Over time, they develop a nice patina.

[Michelle Rich]

I agree with the folks before me..well sanded, & buffed is the way to go..smooth on your hands when used for hours

[Edward Bartimmo]

Guys - Thanks for feedback and advise.

I might otherwise let this one go simply buffed and uncoated, except for fact that I applied a dye to the wood. It will be a short period before my bear paws wear off the wax coating...and start lifting the dye out of the wood. To fight the heat and humidity in Houston as well as my sweaty hands I like some protection under any wax coat. I agree that I don't want the tool handle to be to slippery and at same time I want the coating not to interfere with the sultry feeling of the wood. I usually use a light coat or two of shellac or Waterlox and buff with the final coat being plastic polish (aka car buffing compound) which seems to hold up better under local climate conditions than carnuba or other wax.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree also. I just wax and buff my handles. They have a nice patina over time and easy on the hands.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I know people who sand and 3 buff bowls without any finish on purpose. It's a very different and very nice finish. I wouldn't worry about it. If you're really wanting a "finish", oils will go throuh the wax. Not that I've done what you did......:o

[Craig Powers]

Sounds like you just need to start over and resand it.


Guys - Thanks for feedback and advise.

I might otherwise let this one go simply buffed and uncoated, except for fact that I applied a dye to the wood. It will be a short period before my bear paws wear off the wax coating...and start lifting the dye out of the wood. To fight the heat and humidity in Houston as well as my sweaty hands I like some protection under any wax coat. I agree that I don't want the tool handle to be to slippery and at same time I want the coating not to interfere with the sultry feeling of the wood. I usually use a light coat or two of shellac or Waterlox and buff with the final coat being plastic polish (aka car buffing compound) which seems to hold up better under local climate conditions than carnuba or other wax.

[Ed Morgano]

Edward,
I believe amonia is the chemical that disolves wax.