Mortises -Maynard Method

[lowell holmes]

Who uses the Maynard Method when chopping mortises ? After reading Christopher Schwarz's article, I've played with it. I am impressed with the speed and quality of the mortises. Chris talks about chisels as well.

I agree with Chris, the Ray Iles mortise chisels are faster than other chisels. I have 1/4" and 3/8" Iles chisels. They are trapezoidal shape and beveled at 18 degrees. I have a 1/2" Narex morise chisel that is trapezoidal and is beveled at 25 degrees. I am curious about grinding the Narex chisel to 18 degrees. Would it perform more closely like an Iles chisel?

I don't have much need for 1/2" motises, so I hesitate spending that much. I notice they are available now. Maybe I should just order one. Hmm. . . .

[David Weaver]

I would wait until you need the 1/2 inch mortise chisel if you do a lot of cabinet type work.

The only time I've used a 1/2 inch mortise chisel is to hog waste out on a plane mortise, which is just as well done by a wider large framing chisel.

I think I might have that size RI, anyway, but I know I haven't used it. I also have an LN of that size with the protective goo still on the end of it. The only one I've used is a big socket framing style chisel that isn't nearly as good of a chisel as either of those.

[Derek Cohen]

Who uses the Maynard Method when chopping mortises ? After reading Christopher Schwarz's article, I've played with it. I am impressed with the speed and quality of the mortises. Chris talks about chisels as well.

I agree with Chris, the Ray Iles mortise chisels are faster than other chisels. I have 1/4" and 3/8" Iles chisels. They are trapezoidal shape and beveled at 18 degrees. I have a 1/2" Narex morise chisel that is trapezoidal and is beveled at 25 degrees. I am curious about grinding the Narex chisel to 18 degrees. Would it perform more closely like an Iles chisel?

I don't have much need for 1/2" motises, so I hesitate spending that much. I notice they are available now. Maybe I should just order one. Hmm. . . .

Hi Lowell

18 degrees? Are you morticing balsa wood? :)

I assume you mean a primary bevel and not the secondary bevel?

On oval bolstered mortice chisels the primary bevel is traditionally 20 degrees with a secondary of 35 degrees. I doubt that 18 degrees will make much difference. Note - when one gives numbers to the degrees here they are meant as a "general" figure and not to be taken literally. For a mortice chisel close enough is good enough.

A Narex will never be a RI chisel. The Narex are high carbon steel and the RI is D2 steel. Longevity of edge retention aside, a low primary bevel will make entry easier and deeper, which means you can pry out more.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

I know, I'm probably going to just buy the RI 1/2" chisel even though I don't have much use for it.

I get confused when talking about primary and secondary bevels. I consider the secondary bevel to be the micro-bevel we put on the bevel.

I don't put a micro bevel the RI chisels. The bevel is 18 degrees. Then as you move up towards the bolster about 1/3 of the way, the bevel changes . I suspect this second bevel location is thought out to make the pry-out of the chips more efficient.

Using the Maynard method, the mortise is accomplished quickly, the walls of the mortise are straight and smooth enough not to require paring.

This makes fitting the tenon to the mortise much easier. I realize the trapezoidal cross-section of the chisel aids in this.

I'm just blown away by the ease of the mortise. It's much quicker and nearly as concise as using a router.

[Roy Lindberry]

Who uses the Maynard Method when chopping mortises ? After reading Christopher Schwarz's article, I've played with it. I am impressed with the speed and quality of the mortises. Chris talks about chisels as well.

I agree with Chris, the Ray Iles mortise chisels are faster than other chisels. I have 1/4" and 3/8" Iles chisels. They are trapezoidal shape and beveled at 18 degrees. I have a 1/2" Narex morise chisel that is trapezoidal and is beveled at 25 degrees. I am curious about grinding the Narex chisel to 18 degrees. Would it perform more closely like an Iles chisel?

I don't have much need for 1/2" motises, so I hesitate spending that much. I notice they are available now. Maybe I should just order one. Hmm. . . .

I didn't know what the Maynard Method was, and had to look it up.

For those others in the dark, this article (http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/cSchwarz/z_art/mortChisel/mortChis3.asp) gave some explanation.

[lowell holmes]

I'm sorry Roy. I should have included the link. I read about the method in Woodworking magazine a few years back.

I waffle back and forth on the method I use, but since I have the RI chisels, I'll be using the method most of the time.

The depth of the hole you drill sets the mortise depth and gives you a place for the chips to go.

[Andrew Gibson]

I just got my set of RI chisels, 1/4" and 3/8" in the mail Saturday. So this thread is quite timely. I must start my own search for preferred method of mortise work... Now if only I could find that #3 auger bit for starting the 1/4" mortice... It would go great with my 6" brace.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Lowell

Two points.

The first is just my experience, and I would like to hear from others here. This is that a mortice chisel with a taper is much harder to use when the mortice is predrilled, than a mortice chisel with flat sides. I find that the tapered chisel is more sensitive to working without the support from the sides of the mortice, and holes affect the steering when chiseling. If you want to drill out the waste first, then use a square-sided mortice chisel (such as the LN).

The second is a comment in response to your post that your chisels are uses with an 18 degree primary bevel and no secondary bevel. Frankly, this is way off! It would only work with soft wood, and even then I doubt that it would last long. With mortice chisels one does not add a micro bevel for moderate-hard woods - you add a substantial secondary bevel, generally of 35 degrees. Even 30 degrees leaves too weak an end. 18 degrees is a paring chisel, not a mortice chisel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

207457


Hi Derek,

I suppose I am not communicationg clearly. The image above is the chisel I am talking about.

I was wrong about how far up the bevel changed. The cross section is trapezoidal.

I have the Lie Nielsens and will not let them go. I'm blessed to have both chisels.

[Jim Koepke]

I don't have much need for 1/2" motises, so I hesitate spending that much.

Start working with construction lumber like 2X3s and 2X4s. You will find a 1/2" mortise chisel very handy.


Now if only I could find that #3 auger bit for starting the 1/4" mortice...

I have only found one, and it ain't leaving my shop.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Well, I misspoke. There is a small micro bevel on the chisel of about 25 degrees. It's so small it's hard to measure.,

Jim, I built a table out of 2X4 and 2X6 pine that I keep my generator on while waiting for a hurricane to come by. I used 1/2" m&t on it. I also used them on my work bench base. Let's see, two tables in the last 10 years, I think that justifies a new chisel.

IIRC, I useed blue handled Marples bench chisels on the first table.

[Andrae Covington]

I just got my set of RI chisels, 1/4" and 3/8" in the mail Saturday. So this thread is quite timely. I must start my own search for preferred method of mortise work... Now if only I could find that #3 auger bit for starting the 1/4" mortice... It would go great with my 6" brace.

I have the same two chisels, they are magnificent beasts. I also had to look up "Maynard method" but then I remembered the Schwarz article. I have used that approach as well as just banging out the whole thing with the RI chisel. I have found that I have some trouble keeping the hole within the confines of the mortise, so I prefer just using the chisel. But as long as your boring is true, it does provide an escape route for the chips, as well as weakens the wood in the mortise as you chop down, so may in fact be a faster method. As for the <1/4" auger bit, depending on the type of chuck your brace drill has, you may be able to use a modern twist bit. I have an excellent set of brad-points from LV. Also have a few antique gimlet bits with the tapered square end for brace drills, but I haven't tried them (I seem to have misplaced them :o). The gimlets show up on ebay from time to time.

[george wilson]

I swear,I never gave a thought to WHOSE method I was using. I just chopped them out.

[Bob Strawn]

I guess I am a Hayward fan!

When joining 4x4 it is the fastest way. I tried the rest, Hayward's the best!

http://toolmakingart.battlering.com/images/Mortise/Mortise%2004%20Sides.jpg

http://toolmakingart.battlering.com/images/Mortise/Mortise%2005%20Mortise%20and%20Tennon.jpg

Bob