lacquer finish

[Josh Bowman]

I've used lacquer for years on flat work, but haven't tried it on turnings. I've been spraying a HF with many coats trying to build up the finish. I haven't been sanding between coats, since lacquer will melt the previous coat. Anyway, the finish to the touch is a little rough, probably from the raised grain. Will buffing with the Beall buffing system take care of that or should I hit it first with a little four 0 steel wool? 2nd: will buffing with Tripoli mess up the lacquer? Or should I just go straight to White Diamond?
Thanks

[Al Wasser]

I usually sand between coats to remove the little dust bumps, etc. I have tried to buff them out with limited success.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Josh on my lacquer finishes I use 320 or 400 grit after the second or third coat. I put maybe 7 to 10 light coats on a piece. If it still doesn't have a smooth feel to it after the 5th coat I will hit it again with 400 or use 0000 steel wool. Then I won't for the last couple of coats. After it dries for a week or more then I will buff lightly. Buffing for me generally doesn't smooth out the roughness.

[Bob Bergstrom]

Build up the layers depending on whether open or closed grain. Sand back with 400 to 600 grit. Let sit for a couple weeks and then buff and wax.

[John Keeton]

Josh, you may want to try Deft brush on lacquer, too. It can be wiped on as well as brushed. I have a large, natural bristle makeup brush that works great for brushing it on. I think wiping on the first couple of coats is better than spray - seems to soak in better and fills the grain. Also leaves a much smoother surface. Jamie Donaldson got me convinced on thinning the brush on with about 10% acetone - seems to work very well when wiped on.

[Kaptan J.W. Meek]

lacquer is kinda soft until it "cures".. so I usually build up 3 coats, let it dry 3 days, then sand w/600... two more coats. dry 3 days.. sand 1000.. two more coats, wet sand 2000, 1 more light but wet coat, and buff, wax and buff. Looks like glass. Lotta work.. but it all depends on what results you want..

[Russell Neyman]

I tried using the Beall system on a lacewood bowl lid, and the lacquer melted right away when I hit it with just the White Diamond. I do, however, buff well-cured lacquer with wax only all the time with good results.

I just bought the Beall only a year ago and wondered about what finishes will take the Tripoli and White Diamond polishes, and sent a note to Beall about it after this melted lid. They weren't exactly sure about lacquer, but said that it works very well on poly and bare wood. There must be a few tricks here -- buffing speed, age of the finish, etc -- that I like to hear from those of you who buff all the time.

[John Beaver]

I basically do it similar to "Kaptan J.W. Meek"
Build it up 3 coats at a time, then steel wheel or sand to remove bumps and orange peel. When I'm happy with the lacquer I buff with tripoli, white diamond and ren wax.
I use 4" buffing wheels on a hand held sander rather then the big wheels on the lathe. They're a little less agressive and I find this allows me to control the sheen better.

I like John's suggestion of wiping it on, but a lot of my pieces have things sticking out so I find spraying gets in the corners better.

[Thom Sturgill]

I fill with *thinned* brush on lacquer (4-1) several coats and sand to about 800. Note that by the time I'm up to 400 I should be sanding only finish, not wood and wet sanding with Mineral Spirits (MS). Three or more coats rattle can (Deft preferred) with sanding between coats going up in grit to 1000, 2000 - by this time I should have imperfections filled. Grits 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 are used with the lathe on high speed and with lots of MS to lubricate. Spray as needed to fill, and don't be afraid to do some hand work with the lathe stopped. Keep a paper towel running behind the polishing cloths to pickup any grit or dust.

Often I will stop at 4K or 6k and buff a week or so later. From sanded turning to finished piece can be done in an hour.

[Russell Neyman]

6000, 8000, and 12000 grit? Yikes.

[robert baccus]

Ya'll are making this too hard. forget the laquer for a while. brush on a good thickbodied coat of sanding sealer(think filler) or 2. dry for an hour and sand with a medim grit sponge. spray a thinnish coat of SS over this. spray 5-6 coats of a good laquer and dry for a few hours. wet sand with a fine sanding sponge--rub down with a good auto compound. they come in grits like sandpaper. all this is done on the lathe before dismounting. follow with a good wax on the lathe. Meguluard is the brand i find useful. all this can be done easily in 1/2 day. good luck.------------------old forester

[Allen stagg]

I use laquer all the time and also Beall buff. You just ahve to wait a week to let cure before budding and keep it moving to prevent burn from any finish.

[David DeCristoforo]

I have always sanded the first two coats almost back to bare wood. 220 the first time and 400 the second. Then I start building top coats. If you spray the first few top coats too heavy, you will get a rough surface because there is too much material to "flow out" before the lacquer starts to dry. More thin coats to build and then one or two heavier coats to finish up. But I never re-coat without sanding. Even though lacquer will "cut" into the previous coat, it will not necessarily be sufficient to level rough spots in those previous coats.

[Russell Neyman]

I use laquer all the time and also Beall buff. You just ahve to wait a week to let cure before budding and keep it moving to prevent burn from any finish.

White Diamond? Tripoli? Really? I'll try it again on a different piece of wood if you say it works for you.

[Allen stagg]

I use them all ( tripile, white diamond, ), just light touches and keep moving. Have lots of success with buffing laquer. It's about all I use.