sawstop fence any good

[kelly logan]

Are the sawstop fences accurate?
or do they drift?
how accurate are they?

I do a lot of fine box work

[johnny means]

Which SS fence? Biessy style fences are pretty much all the same no matter the brand, stout, durable and reliable. What do you mean by drift? I would hope that no fence that was up to manufacturer specs moved while in use. I imagine that only the crappiest saws could possibly come with a fence that bad. I have the Tsquare style fence on my SS and in my opinion it is slightly better than a beisemeyer(it has adjustment for squaring to the table). The plywood faces are crap though. Mine has a noticeable dip in the middle. It has never been a problem, but for almost $5000 I think a flat face on the fence should be expected.

[scott spencer]

The basic contractor saw fence is pretty humble, but their Biese clone looks as good as any.

Good:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/SawStopPCS.jpg

Not so good:
http://www.shinyplastic.com/prodimg/sawstop-large.jpg

[Matt Kestenbaum]

I've never had problem with drift on my SS t-glide fence (biess style) on my 3hp cab model. But I don't love the way the faces are mounted to the steel frames...there are few very tiny dished spots in the faces (.003") and the adjustment mechanism is too tedious for me to feel that I'd make it better before worse.

[Mike Heidrick]

The SS T glide is as accurate as you set it up to be. It has no limitations vs any other bies/clone. There is always the Incra too.

[kelly logan]

I have the incra now on my unisaw but going to upgrade to a sawstop just for the fact that sometimes my fingers are close to the blade and this would be my last upgrade on a table saw

[Paul Grothouse]

I find the fence is just as good as any Unisaw or other saw fence I have ever owned. If you are putting a lot of pressure against the fence for some reason, you could always add a clamp to the back side.

[Mike Heidrick]

Id buy a gripper first.

Then move the Incra to the sawstop if you upgrade saws.

[Don Bullock]

Move the Incra to the SawStop. I have one on my ICS and it's a fantastic combination. Even if your Incra fits a "standard" size saw you can get parts to convert it for an ICS. Incra customer service/sales reps are great at working with any kind of special order.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I have the biesemeyer clone fence on my Sawstop. The fence locks down rock solid and doesn't deflect at all.

Like others, I have found that the faces on the fence are complete garbage. Very wavy... so you'll probably want to replace the fence face with a dry, stable piece of hardwood. This is by far the biggest weakness of the saw. In fact, I can't think of any other weaknesses. It's easily my favorite machine in my shop. But for the money you pay for these saws, it seems odd that they have skimped on the quality of such an inexpensive part.

[mreza Salav]

I have the biesemeyer clone fence on my Sawstop. The fence locks down rock solid and doesn't deflect at all.

Like others, I have found that the faces on the fence are complete garbage. Very wavy... so you'll probably want to replace the fence face with a dry, stable piece of hardwood. This is by far the biggest weakness of the saw. In fact, I can't think of any other weaknesses. It's easily my favorite machine in my shop. But for the money you pay for these saws, it seems odd that they have skimped on the quality of such an inexpensive part.

I second what Peter said. The fence itself is very straight (to within 0.001" or so that I could measure) and is rock solid. the laminated plywood face is not the same thickness across the length. Had to shim it at a few spot. That's the ONLY complain I've had about my ICS sawstop. You can always swap that with a different plywood face or MDF or UHMW.

[Marcus Waddell]

Move the Incra to the SawStop. I have one on my ICS and it's a fantastic combination. Even if your Incra fits a "standard" size saw you can get parts to convert it for an ICS. Incra customer service/sales reps are great at working with any kind of special order.
Hey Don,
I know this is a super old post, but you are the first I have seen that actually has an Incra on a Sawstop. I have an Incra on my old 90s Delta Contractor saw and I'm thinking of upgrading to a 36" 3.0HP PCS. I would like to get the floating overarm dust collection and the folding outfeed table, but I think the Incra rails and central clamping element would get in the way of those things. Do you (or anyone else) have experience with Incra on the PCS with those two options? Pros/Cons? Etc? Your help is greatly appreciated.

[Prashun Patel]

Sawstop fence is just fine. It has stayed plenty accurate for me.

For tight box work, consider using your incra fence on the sawstop. I assume you have some nice microadjustability with the incra that will be lost with the sawstop.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Marcus, I have a 36" 3HP Sawstop with the Incra fence system.

Prior to installing the Incra fence, at my old house, I had the OEM Sawstop fence system and had built a fold down table as I needed to put my saw away, against wall, to allow my wife to park her car.

I mounted a large piano hinge to the L chanel bracket on the rear of the Sawstop to allow my folding table to pivot.

With the aluminum extrusion, that is part of the Incra system, I don't see any reason why you couldn't attach a folding table to that. I now have a more permanent out feed table that I clamp, with the Incra L brackets, to the out feed side fence.

As regards to the two overarm Dust Collection systems, that Sawstop offers, I don't see any reason why either of these could not be made to work with the Incra Fence, you might have to fabricate new mounting brackets.

I have the cheaper Sawstop dust collection system. It's not on my table as I prefer to use a cross cut sled and that system doesn't work with a sled.

Also, I have not sprung for the floating overhead arm system, because for the most part, my DC, sucking sawdust from inside the cabinet, seems to get the majority of the debris from a cut.

[Jim Dwight]

When I got my PCS a few years ago there was an aluminum 30 inch fence that I did not like the looks of and the 36 inch steel fence model I bought. It is very robust and heavy and does not move. The scale is accurate and dependable. The only complaint I have is with the faces. I could not adjust it so both the left and right fence were perpendicular to the saw top. I chose to make the left face perpendicular because it is the one I use essentially all the time. I did not dismount the faces and try shimming them. I don't think I should have to. But it is a nuisance, not a real problem for the way I use the saw.

[Patrick Varley]

Agree with everyone on the faces. I successfully replaced mine with some 80/20 aluminum extrusion and am pretty happy with it.

[Marcus Waddell]

Marcus, I have a 36" 3HP Sawstop with the Incra fence system.

Prior to installing the Incra fence, at my old house, I had the OEM Sawstop fence system and had built a fold down table as I needed to put my saw away, against wall, to allow my wife to park her car.

I mounted a large piano hinge to the L chanel bracket on the rear of the Sawstop to allow my folding table to pivot.

With the aluminum extrusion, that is part of the Incra system, I don't see any reason why you couldn't attach a folding table to that. I now have a more permanent out feed table that I clamp, with the Incra L brackets, to the out feed side fence.

As regards to the two overarm Dust Collection systems, that Sawstop offers, I don't see any reason why either of these could not be made to work with the Incra Fence, you might have to fabricate new mounting brackets.

I have the cheaper Sawstop dust collection system. It's not on my table as I prefer to use a cross cut sled and that system doesn't work with a sled.

Also, I have not sprung for the floating overhead arm system, because for the most part, my DC, sucking sawdust from inside the cabinet, seems to get the majority of the debris from a cut.

Another question: For super close cuts with the Incra fence have you ever had any worry that the brake will be set off?

[ChrisA Edwards]

If I'm doing very thin strips, I'll usually cut the strip to the left side of the blade. Once you've dimensioned the piece, you are cutting the strips from, you just move the fence in the kerf thickness plus the strip thickness on the LS-TS positioner.

Another approach, and I have a board for this, is to attach a piece of 3/4 MDF or plywood to the fence and then run the strips between the fence and the blade. This way the blade never gets close to the aluminum fence.

I also have a similar board with a 1/2"D x 3/4"H rabbit that allow me to position this over the blade, but almost flush with the blade to trim edge banding on small pieces.

[Johnnie Russell]

I'm looking for a new fence option for my 2005 ICS Sawstop. What are my options?

I just spent several hours trying to refit the Sawstop fence plates to the metal fence bar. I finally managed to get both fence plates flush enough with the metal bar and then use a credit card to add space between the plates and the table top, but I am having an issue with the plates being parallel and perpendicular. I think the root cause is that some of the threaded inserts that fit into the plywood fence plate are loose and the screws are not going inline into the threaded insert so things are not fitting right.

Maybe replacing the fence plates with new ones from Sawstop will work? Also, it looks as if folks have screwed wood, aluminum extrusions, or other material to the existing fence metal bar as a solution. I see references to the Incra fence as a replacement and the VCST fence also.

I am inclined to move on to another solution that will allow for more time using the saw than adjusting it.

Any ideas?

[Paul F Franklin]

I'm looking for a new fence option for my 2005 ICS Sawstop. What are my options?

I just spent several hours trying to refit the Sawstop fence plates to the metal fence bar. I finally managed to get both fence plates flush enough with the metal bar and then use a credit card to add space between the plates and the table top, but I am having an issue with the plates being parallel and perpendicular. I think the root cause is that some of the threaded inserts that fit into the plywood fence plate are loose and the screws are not going inline into the threaded insert so things are not fitting right.

Maybe replacing the fence plates with new ones from Sawstop will work? Also, it looks as if folks have screwed wood, aluminum extrusions, or other material to the existing fence metal bar as a solution. I see references to the Incra fence as a replacement and the VCST fence also.

I am inclined to move on to another solution that will allow for more time using the saw than adjusting it.

Any ideas?

A number of folks have recommended the extrusion from Very Super Cool Tools; it seems solid, flat and beefy. Fortunately my stock fence has been trouble free so far, but if it ever goes wonky, I'd probably go the VSCT route.

[Christopher Glanton]

I've been setting up my brand new PCS 3hsp SStop. I'm doing the fence adjustments today. I too was a bit disappointed in the SS fence. A cheap thin laminate instead of 1/2" HDPE I had on the first version of the Jet Exacta fence I sold along with my Delta contractor saw. And I too will go with a VSCT route if this fence turns out to be crap. Otherwise, "Wow", what a saw!

[Jim Dwight]

I have not replaced the laminated piece on the left side of the fence. It works OK. I got it perpendicular to the saw top and just accepted that in the rare even I rip on the left side of the saw and use the other face it won't be perpendicular to the top unless I change the setting. I clamp a sacrificial plywood piece to the fence for some things.

[Johnnie Russell]

I have not replaced the laminated piece on the left side of the fence. It works OK. I got it perpendicular to the saw top and just accepted that in the rare even I rip on the left side of the saw and use the other face it won't be perpendicular to the top unless I change the setting. I clamp a sacrificial plywood piece to the fence for some things.

The laminated face on the right side of my fence is loose and wavy, the reason I originally removed both fence faces. I needed to use the saw so I remounted both faces and encountered this issue of not being able to make the left side of the fence parallel and square. I spent another couple hours yesterday getting the left side parallel and square. It took a mallet, multiple adjustments of the cap screws, and most every swear word in my vocabulary. The right side of the fence is hopeless now. I guess the cheapest solution is to buy new fence plates from Sawstop, but maybe the best solution is the VCST fence. Once mounted and adjusted, the original fence is fine, but perhaps it is just the age of the fence plates and prior to a recent move it was in a garage with wide temperature swings that may have contributed to the threaded inserts becoming wonky and that problem seems to be what is causing my difficulty.

[glenn bradley]

I'm looking for a new fence option for my 2005 ICS Sawstop. What are my options? . . . Any ideas?

The Saw Stop fence makes it really easy to change or adjust faces but, it sounds like yours is enough out of whack to be a defect. I switched to aluminum extrusions and switched back. I use the tablesaw as a joinery machine more than just ripping material and the t-slots always seemed to be in just the wrong place ;-) Also, aluminum is pliable and will cofnorm to an irregular face and could require shimming as well if your tube is the culprit.

I was able to get my faces flat with just foil and / or paper tape for shims. It sounds like yours is more out of true than that or the face thickness is inconsistent. Run a set of calipers down the removed face. It may be that you are trying to align something that is already irregular before you start. Popping your own inserts into an MDF face would not be much work. I might even do this first but, that's me. I have MDF surfaces that are shellacked and waxed that have seen years of service with only an occasional refreshing of the finish.

[Bob Falk]

I have a early (2005,2006?) ICS and the Sawstop fence that came with it is frustrating. It may be adjusted improperly. Every time I tighten the fence down, it moves a bit making it difficult to set to a specific width. Any ideas?

[Aaron Liebling]

My brand new ics does this, too. I hate it! It makes me miss the rack and pinion fence from my otherwise incomparable dewalt contractor saw. Is there a fix?


I have a early (2005,2006?) ICS and the Sawstop fence that came with it is frustrating. It may be adjusted improperly. Every time I tighten the fence down, it moves a bit making it difficult to set to a specific width. Any ideas?

[Randy Heinemann]

I have the incra now on my unisaw but going to upgrade to a sawstop just for the fact that sometimes my fingers are close to the blade and this would be my last upgrade on a table saw

If you are currently using the Incra fence system on your saw, I doubt other fences, regardless of what brand, would compare favorably. Isn't there anyway you can re-use the Incra fence on a new Sawstop?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

If you are currently using the Incra fence system on your saw, I doubt other fences, regardless of what brand, would compare favorably. Isn't there anyway you can re-use the Incra fence on a new Sawstop?

This is it..
You know you guys are replying to a 10 year old post?
Sad to see that Sawstop is still having issues with fence faces though. Mine are fine. I think. I've never measured, the saw cuts perfectly straight and no up cuts from the back of the blade. Some complain about the surface that is 0.003 out of flat. IMO that is irrelevant when it comes to wood. The wood may move that much after cooling down after the cut. I'd love to get the Incra but I can't justify the cost. Maybe I should go check the faces.

As another post said, if you are making small repetitive cuts for small boxes, get a pair of Grippers. They keep you hands away from teh blade. They get a lot of negative reviews, but I think they are from those who use them to push long wide boards, where they don't really help any more than a simple push stick or block. But when making small box cuts, they control both the save and off cut. Awesome purchase for that use.

[Charles Coolidge]

My brand new ics does this, too. I hate it! It makes me miss the rack and pinion fence from my otherwise incomparable dewalt contractor saw. Is there a fix?

I also have a brand new ICS but don't have an issue, it locks right where I position it. I did wax the tube it's quick slick.

[Charles Coolidge]

Sad to see that Sawstop is still having issues with fence faces though. Mine are fine.

I have a new ICS. Technically the fence face is wavy but it starts at 0 and ends at 0 with a few valleys along its length in the -002 to -007 range. I'm assuming where the bolts are. I have not tested it yet but I think the board will simply skim over these valleys.

[Aaron Liebling]

Maybe I have too large of a gap at the front where it slides? It's straight when it's locked in, but when I reposition it, it always shifts a bit.

[Christopher Glanton]

I just set up my new SS fence yesterday. The face of the fence actually is undulating! What crap! Was thinking alum extrusion, but didn't think that it might not be stiff enough. Maybe I'll just follow Glen's lead and build a fence face out of MDF.

[Jason White]

T-glide fence is the best I've ever used. Better than USA-made Biesemeyer and Shop Fox.


Are the sawstop fences accurate?
or do they drift?
how accurate are they?

I do a lot of fine box work

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I just set up my new SS fence yesterday. The face of the fence actually is undulating! What crap! Was thinking alum extrusion, but didn't think that it might not be stiff enough. Maybe I'll just follow Glen's lead and build a fence face out of MDF.

Is it always a depression or does it protrude? The manual does caution that if you over tighten the screws it could cause slight concavity on the plates. If it is always a depression, then I would use it. The wood would just pass over without a problem. If it is protruding, that's a problem.
I would think that they would not intentionally make a wavy fence plate.........

[Bruce Lowekamp]

I have a early (2005,2006?) ICS and the Sawstop fence that came with it is frustrating. It may be adjusted improperly. Every time I tighten the fence down, it moves a bit making it difficult to set to a specific width. Any ideas?

I don’t have a sawstop, but on the Jet fence there were pieces of UHMW plastic that on each end of the T where it clamped to the rail and on the clamp. On my 2001 those had started to wear and the adhesive had allowed them to slip so they were only partially where the clamping applied pressure, so the alignment wasn’t consistent. There’s a thread discussing this, but I got some new UHMW from Grainger, removed the old with a heat gun, and put on new pads. Like a new fence.

I don’t know if sawstop fences have the same parts on the T but if you’re not getting the fence to reset in a consistent position, I would look at those pressure pointson the T to see if there’s something wrong there.

Bruce

[Bob Falk]

Bruce, thanks for the insight. I will look at my UHMW pads and see if they are worn. Cheers, bob

[Bob Falk]

I contacted Sawstop and here was their response:
Hi Bob,I got your message about the fence.To combat or fix this issue involves a technique.TO stop the fence from moving when locking it down into place. You’ll want to pull on the lever that locks the fence into place by pulling it towards you while you are locking the fence. This is what I do and it stop the fence from moving once I got it where I want It to be.
Let me know if this doesn’t make sense, or doesn’t work for you.Best regards,SawStop Customer Technical Support

[Charles Coolidge]

I contacted Sawstop and here was their response:
Hi Bob,I got your message about the fence.To combat or fix this issue involves a technique.TO stop the fence from moving when locking it down into place. You’ll want to pull on the lever that locks the fence into place by pulling it towards you while you are locking the fence. This is what I do and it stop the fence from moving once I got it where I want It to be.
Let me know if this doesn’t make sense, or doesn’t work for you.Best regards,SawStop Customer Technical Support


Same basic technique I use, make sure the fence is pulled back against the tube before locking.