Topless Workbench (woot-woot)

[David Fried]

I need a workbench as I am getting tired of working on the floor, on the table saw, on saw horses, etc..

I thought I would make a simple bench out of 2x4's to start. The base is almost done. I used lap joints and maple dowels to hold it together. I'm just glueing up the last cross member.

After this last piece is drilled and doweled I'll need to make a decision about a top. Originally, I had just planned on cutting up a sheet of plywood but the recent postings on 2x4 tops have me rethinking that. Any thoughts and suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks.

(sorry the pictures are dark but it was a bit dark in the living room)

[John Hulett]

David,

I built a similar (actually two) workbench. I got the plan from http://www.sears.com/sr/craftsman/projects_tips/cr_pt_details.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=SEARS&topcat=projects&proj_id=20521. I modified it just a bit - I didn't use a back, I adjusted the height to accomodate casters and still be able to use as outfeed for my TS, and for the top, I just used doubled-up 3/4" MDF (easily replacable if it gets too thrashed). I really like the mobility - especially in my 1-car side of the garage!

See picutures at: http://sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=141902&postcount=6

- John

[Paul Thompson]

David,

I built a similar (actually two) workbench. I got the plan from http://www.sears.com/sr/craftsman/projects_tips/cr_pt_details.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=SEARS&topcat=projects&proj_id=20521. I modified it just a bit - I didn't use a back, I adjusted the height to accomodate casters and still be able to use as outfeed for my TS, and for the top, I just used doubled-up 3/4" MDF (easily replacable if it gets too thrashed). I really like the mobility - especially in my 1-car side of the garage!

See picutures at: http://sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=141902&postcount=6

- John
Thanks for posting the link to that workbench. That's on my list of things to get built in the next year.

This brings a question to my mind. Being generally snobbish when it comes to these things, my first thought (several years ago) concerning a workbench was that I should build a traditional workbench out of hard maple with a laminate hard maple top, etc.

However, since then I have repeatedly come across articles, plans, posts, webpages, etc where the above approach has been used to top off a workbench - 3 layers, starting with plywood and ending with 2 pieces of MDF. Sometimes people will simply use 2 - 1 layers of MDF.

Does anyone have any intersting thoughts on the subject of MDF vs. Traditional workbench tops? Any compelling reasons to go with the traditional approach?

I assume that no matter what the case, the workbench base would be built solid and would include approach vises, etc, builtin as is the case in a more traditional bench.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Nice looking topless workbench! :) LOL, the company I work for has software that quicly searches key areas of the page to determain content, they blocked this page because of topless in the title!! LOL :)

[David Fried]

Nice looking topless workbench! :) LOL, the company I work for has software that quicly searches key areas of the page to determain content, they blocked this page because of topless in the title!! LOL :)

Good thing I didn't add the XXX! Let me see if I understand this correctly.
In Wisconsin you can look at bottomless bowls but not topless workbenches? :D

John - I thought about adding some kind of leveling feet since none of my floors are level or flat. I think adding wheels is another good idea. Thanks.

Paul - I've read about using plywood with a thin layer of hardboard on top. I've never worked with MDF perhaps this is my chance! Thanks for the ideas.

[Alan Turner]

David,
A couple of thoughts for you.
A solid core exterior door (1 3/4" thick) is flat, and if damaged, cheap. Just a thought. It is still the top on my back (juck collecting) bench. On my real bench, I went with rubber tipped steel feet, from MSC Direct, at about $3-$4@ because they prevent slippage, and keep the sled base off the sometimes damp floor. They are adjustable in height to accomodate an uneven floor. Of of one side, I mounted a set of wheels, just 1/8" off the floor, so I can pick up the other end of the bench, and move it like a wheelbarrow when needed, but otherwise the wheels are not in the way or contributing to any lack of stability.
Alan

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Good thing I didn't add the XXX! Let me see if I understand this correctly.
In Wisconsin you can look at bottomless bowls but not topless workbenches? :D



Nah that is only at my company! Their filtering software really needs work. In order to not slow down page loads, they do VERY brief checks to determain content. Basically looking at the URL for key words and the title and headings of the page.

[Andy Henriksen]

I know I'm just contributing to the off topic chatter, but I still laugh several times a week at the post from a while back where someone linked to penisland.com -thats PEN island.com, some sorta pen supplier.

OK, what the heck, I'll throw my .02 on the bench too. I recently completed a bench with 2 layers of 3/4 mdf, topped with hardboard, and banded with pine. I love it, but it is very slippery, so your work piece tends to slide all around. I haven't put in dog holes yet, which I hope to soon, which will hopefully give me the additional clamping needs to negate the slippage.

[Jim Heffner]

David, I see that no one else has said it ..so I will throw in this idea. Why not pick up a good flat paneled solid core door from habitat or maybe a new/slightly damaged one from the borg ? I have one on my workbench and the price was right when I got it $20.00 or less a couple of years back.It makes one heck of a strong, stable, tough workbench that is good and flat and easily and cheaply replaced when the need arises.

I do a lot of different things on mine, woodworking, some metal working,
repair work and it has never let me down. It is a 3/0, 7/0 door so it is plenty large enough for about anything you should need for a long time.
Give it a try....you'll like it!

[Chris Konikowski]

You just made a suggestion to a guy building a workbench almost 4 years ago....:eek::D

[Jonathan Shaw]

That said, it does seem like a good suggestion! :)

[Brent Leonard]

I have friends that are still "working" on projects after 10 years.
:):)
4 years is nothing!!!!
;)

[Jason White]

I used a solid-core door from the home center. Heavy and flat. Works great.

Jason



I need a workbench as I am getting tired of working on the floor, on the table saw, on saw horses, etc..

I thought I would make a simple bench out of 2x4's to start. The base is almost done. I used lap joints and maple dowels to hold it together. I'm just glueing up the last cross member.

After this last piece is drilled and doweled I'll need to make a decision about a top. Originally, I had just planned on cutting up a sheet of plywood but the recent postings on 2x4 tops have me rethinking that. Any thoughts and suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks.

(sorry the pictures are dark but it was a bit dark in the living room)

[Tony Bilello]

will be flat and a lot more rigid than you might suspect.
I often use my brad air nailer to temporarily nail stuff to my bench top. I dont do it often but I dont hesitate to do it if I need to. The top will still last for many many years. MDF would chip up if you did that.

[Joe Chritz]

I will go another direction and suggest one of two things.

A solid wood laminated top either from SYP or some hardwood. The other alternative is to build a torsion box and attach it to the base. It isn't as bang around durable as a solid wood or plywood box but I use mine all the time and knowing it is dead flat at all times is very handy.

It is always flat and is cheap to build. If you still want a wood top you can easily construct a torsion box from plywood skins.

Joe

[Alan Huey]

I have built several similar. On one used two pieces of 3/4" Plywood glued and screwed. Made an inexpensive very solid top. It was to be in a perminant spot, so I used shims glued and nailed under the legs for leveling on the uneven concrete.

On another one, I used combination of 1/2" and 3/4" plywood, and then put a 1/4" masonite skin over the top. It is easily replacable if buggered up and not expensive.

I have made others for friends with casters to be mobile and adjust the leg height so that the table top is aligned with other tables, and saw tops, etc. Gives you alot of flexibility.

[michael osadchuk]

...the base you have lends itself to a non-laminated top (plywood, mdf, door, etc.).... a laminated top doesn't need the front, back and middle longeron supports and these supports occupy "wasted space" in laminated top that could be better used for drawers, a tool shelf, etc.

.... next bench laminated (smiley)

michael

[Pete Hay]

I've had excellent results with 3/4 plywood topped by 3/4 MDF topped by formica. Trim the edges with oak. The formica can be relatively easily peeled off & replaced if & when needed

[Thad Nickoley]

Why not copy Ridgid and go granite.:D:eek: