value of a type 9 number 8 jointer?

[keith micinski]

Found an #8C and it looks like it is a type 9. It needs rehabbed and appears to be all original but doesn't look like it is in all that rough of shape. The guy says 70 firm. This seems a little high to me. What do you guys think?

[James Taglienti]

70 is about the price for a totally trashed 8 size. If its all there, snatch it up. Are you sure its type 9? Thats a rare type. Anyway if its complete, intact, no damag to knob or tote, with more than 70% japanning its worth 100 to 175 maybe more as a type 9

[keith micinski]

Im not 100 percent sure it is a type 9 because I haven't seen it in person yet but from the photos and the plane dating flow chart it appears to be a type 9. it has the two patent dates but I am not sure about the frog just yet. it doesn't appear to be adjustable so that should eliminate a type 10. thanks for the info I will do a little more research on it.

[Jim Koepke]

If the plane is not damaged, I think $70 is in the range of a $#!+ eating grin gloat!

I would not let my #8 go for that price.

Show us pictures when you get it.

jtk

[Joe Bailey]

Perhaps as a part-time tool-broker myself, I'm overly sensitive in this regard, but why is the first reaction that $70.00 seems high? Compared to what? It is a 100+ year-old plane, in apparently decent shape. I'm going to assume that means usable. I can tell you from personal experience that you can make hundreds of rust-hunting excursions and never come across a No. 8 jointer.
A Lie-Nielsen is 475 dollars, and while I'm not saying they're entirely comparable, the LN's performance is not nearly 7 times greater.
Again, I'm not trying to beat up the original poster, and maybe we've all seen one too many gloats wherein someone buys a fully-stocked patternmaker's chest for $3.50, but the plane is question is a historic example of the flagship of the Bailey fleet - 2 feet long and about 9 3/4 pounds. I say grab it!

[keith micinski]

It is in less then user shape now after having seen more pictures and there is a chip missing from the tote at the top but I am going to meet the guy today to look at it and buy it.

[Joe Bailey]

Hey - that's great that you can look at it in person. Best of luck.

[keith micinski]

Well I got it for 50 bucks. There was a chip in the tote and the Lateral adjustment bar was slightly bent and I was able to talk him down. The bottom and the sides are absurdly flat. After only 5 minutes of lapping they are cleaning up really nice. The original blade and chip breaker are in pretty good shape but the blade was sharpened pretty poorly so it is going to take a lot of work to get it tuned up. The Japanning is in pretty rough shape though. I have read about recipes to reproduce the Japanning but I don't see myself going that far. What are your guys thoughts about just painting it black or leaving it how it is? Also the finish on the lateral adjuster and the piece that moves the blade up and down is gone what is the standard practice for those when your just trying to make a nice working plane?

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I've got users with japanning in a lot worse shape than that - I've touched up one with a little enamel paint, but most of the others I just put a little paste wax on now and then to keep the rust away; I treat it as mostly a cosmetic thing.

[Dave Ring]

I wouldn't worry about the paint. It looks just fine. The lateral adjuster left the factory unfinished and nobody will notice the depth adjustment fork anyway. It looks to me like the sole has a low spot in front of the throat. The sole perhaps could use more lapping and I could perhaps be wrong. In balance though, I must say..."Verrra niiiice!"

[James Taglienti]

Thats in good shape... It seems like the more surface area they japanned, the more chance of a total finish failure i think moisture creeps under the japanning and just flakes it right off. Nice type 9

[Sam Takeuchi]

I agree with the rest of these guys. It's not anywhere near "bad" in any definition of a bad vintage plane. It's not pristine nor should it be. You still would've gotten pretty deal even if you got it for $70. You should do a search under plane rehab or plane restoration and see what some of these guys do to a ball of rust and broken or chipped out handle and knob. Your #8 is in good condition, so you don't need to think it's bad. It's just not in pristine condition. It just have normal wear of a plane that's 100 years old. If you want something perfect, you can find some vintage tool dealers who can find one for you, but that will go a few more times over that $50 you paid for. Maybe touch up the chipped off handle. Bent lateral lever? You can bend that back easily, it's a non issue. Leave it and don't worry about it, really.

[Erik France]

That No 8c for $50 isn't a bad deal at all, I think it's even bordering on gloatworthy. The iron looks like it is getting a little short, but it ought to last you for quite a while.

I picked up a same vintage No. 8c off of Ebay a couple years ago for ~$75 and I thought I had a pretty fair deal. A lot of my planes have ended up being Type 9s. I do like the low knobs better and the absence of the frog adjuster isn't that big of a drawback. I wouldn't bother painting it. Just apply some wax or your rust coating of choice and put the plane to work. Klingspor's Sandflex Blocks (http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/F94DA1CE/mac/additmdtl.mac/showItemDetail?item=SA99996&qtyA=0&phsO=N &drpshp=N&alOrd=Y&iQty=.000&oQty=.000&initQty=1&assortParent=K&itemForSale=Y&styleName=&fixD=&face=.00&gftc=&stck=Y&prefS=&calledFrom=DS&ordInfo1=&ordInfo2=&ordInfo3=&ordMan1=N&ordMan2=N&ordMan3=N&persCode=&persReqd=&persLink=%40&shipRemaining=0&daysBetween=0&daysBetweenFix=0&monthsBetween=0) will clean the inside of the corrugations quickly and easily if you are so inclined.

[Jim Koepke]

what is the standard practice for those when your just trying to make a nice working plane?

It looks to be a very good deal.

Check in the "Sticky" Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs and there are a couple of posts in there about plane rehabilitation.

Rexmill.com and many other sites also have some good information.

I just use gloss black spray paint as a finish on my planes when they get repainted.

jtk

[keith micinski]

Thanks for the tip Erik I was wondering how to clean those grooves out. The lapping isn't done yet that was just a few passes to see what it looked like.