Wall Switch or Remote For Dust Collector?

[Darrell Bade]

Putting the finishing touches on my shop. My dust collector and air compressor sit on the other side of a wall in a different room. When I did the original wiring I put in a 220v 20A wall switch for the air compressor in the shop. Did not put in a switch for the dust collector because I figured I would buy a remote controlled switch.

Been thinking maybe I should just put in another wall switch for the dust collector. Figure I will spend more time looking for the remote when I need it rather than walking over and flipping a wall switch. Plus $5 is way better than $60 or so for a remote. It would be easy to do, just cut a hole in the plywood wall for a box a little above the 220 outlet on the other side and wire it up.

What do you folks use and what have you found to be the pros and cons.

[Jamie Buxton]

I installed my cyclone with a wall switch. After a while I got tired of walking the twenty feet to the switch to turn the thing on. I bought a switch from Woodcraft that came with two remotes. One is tied to the tablesaw, and the other hangs from the bandsaw, which puts it within reach of the jointer-planer. So now I can turn on the DC while standing in front of whatever machine is going to be making chips. It is a much more convenient system. The switch just plugs in-line between the DC and the outlet that you now have, so it is an easy installation.

[Roger Jensen]

I used electronic gates that turn on the cyclone when I open them. I think I got them from Grizzly.

I have been happy with the solution.

Roger

[Thomas Hotchkin]

I use a remote, ( Radio Shack) the TX is clipped to my shop apron, (ID badge clip). Always there when you need it. Along with tape measure, pencils and 6" square. Receiver powers up 120 volt control voltage, to 3 phase relay that turns on dust collector. Spare leg in relay is used to turn on bin level warning system. Have been using this set up for almost 20 years, have up graded dust collector to 3 hp Onida, still using same old remote. Tom

[Curt Harms]

I had a small dust collector that just used a light switch mounted to the overhead air cleaner which is centrally located. When i bought a larger D.C. I bought a special purpose contactor from Grainger. It has a 120 volt coil. I used the old D.C. wiring to control the contactor. The contactor was cheap, around $12 plus an enclosure if I recall correctly. You could do a similar trick with wireless lamp switches available today. In fact I was looking at lamp control doodads recently and you can buy 3 way wireless switches. I've also read about people who buy remotes that control christmas lights and such and "repurpose" it in a similar way. The coil in a contactor uses very little power. I never really considered a fob setup 'cause I'd lose my backside if it weren't securely attached.:p

[Erik Stol]

Hi, I do have a similar solution like Jamie. Works great until... i got a "little bang" in the plug that connects to the DC. On the subboard a blown fuse. Checking the plug, it turned out to be loose wiring, but the situation also blew up my remote switch that was sitting in the wall socket. Fortunately I do have 2 more that works on the same remote, so nothing to worry about. I will check what is wrong with the blown up one, otherwise I will buy me a new set of 3.
Regardless of the mishap above, I do love my remote. While working, I always move my DC outside my little shop, to get rid of the noise and to have more working space.

[Samuel Butler]

I have used all of the solutions. The switch was too far to walk to so most cuts were made without the DC turned on. I then made a wooden paddle that and a push on push off switch and ran string overhead in a basement shop. So if I needed to turn on DC I would just reach up and pull down on the string, sort of like the cable you pull on a bus when you want to get off at the next stop.
I then purchased a remote control and clipped it on the TS and my apron, worked well but there were many times I did not remember to turn on the DC until I was into or finished with cut.
The best solution was the one I have now. It was detailed in Fine Woodworking mag a few years ago ( issue 143 pg 66)
and involves a coil that senses current flow and turns on my dust collector. This is all wired in the junction box in my shop. I also have a switch that bypasses the automatic turn on so that I can turn on DC to clean floor etc.

[David Thompson 27577]

If, like many of us, you wear a shop apron while woodworking, then get that remote. And use whatever is needed to attach it to the neck strap of your apron -- a keyring, maybe a caribeaner. It will always be right there on your chest, ready to be turned on or off.

[Joe A Faulkner]

I use the iVac Pro sytem. This system does require line of site path between the outlet where the tool is plugged in and the outlet where the DC is plugged in. One feature that I like with this system is that you can program the DC switch to run for 5, 12, or 45 seconds after the tools stops pulling current.
Another featuer I like is that at the "tool" outlet, you can flip a switch to turn the DC on - which is what I like to do if I am planning on several consecutive cuts and don't want the stop and start iterations with the DC.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IR6T52v51X0

[Alan Schaffter]

There are many ways to do it and many threads on SMC.

You need to look at the electrical requirements of your DC, how you work, and what you want to happen. Be careful of using wall switches and cheap remotes- a switch rated for 15A usually means it is rated for 15A of resistive load- lights, heater, etc. NOT 15A of inductive load- induction motor found on DCs and most WW machines.

I analyzed how I work and how lazy I am and realized a couple of things- (1) I can't keep track of a pencil to save my life so would likely lose a small fob-type remote transmitter. (2) sometimes I want to just make a quick cut or two, or quickly jump from machine to machine- jointer to TS for ripping. In the process I would either forget or just be too lazy to turn on the DC or worse, not open or close blast gates. While it certainly is not for everyone due to cost, complexity, etc., I automated my blast gates and DC (http://videos.americanwoodworker.com/video/Automatic-Dust-Collection) so I no longer need to think about them.

[Ole Anderson]

I use one of those tiny remotes from Oneida. Hang it around my neck from one of those bright red lanyards so I won't loose it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I also use the sensor control for my DC. Added a cube timer so DC would run 10 sec after tool shut down to clear the pipes. (FWW Aug 2000)

[Alan Schaffter]

I use one of those tiny remotes from Oneida. Hang it around my neck from one of those bright red lanyards so I won't loose it.

Do you wear it around your neck when working at your machines?!?!?! :eek: Aren't you concerned about getting garroted if the lanyard gets caught.

[Paul McGaha]

I dont use my Oneida remotes. Just dont bother with it. As Alan said I have enough trouble with a pencil. I use the pusbuttons on the starter but my dust collector is located in my shop.

I would think a remote start/stop station is what you would do. Pretty much duplicate the pushbuttons on the front of the starter.

Not sure of the cost.

PHM

[Thomas Canfield]

I bought the 220V remote as part of order from Oneida when I installed my system. Later when I got my Powermatic 3520B, the variable speed control would start my Oneida on its own when changing speeds sometimes since the remote used the wall wiring to transmit a radio frequency. I had to change to use a remote for 110 V power to energize hardwire signal to a magnetic 220V contactor for the dust collector and that solved the problem. There is a string of posts about 4 years ago on all the problems and solution. I do like the remote for the dust collector, and usually have it hanging on a florescent orange flagging ribbon in the middle of the shop, but can carry it to bandsaw or other tools if I want handy control.

[Ole Anderson]

Do you wear it around your neck when working at your machines?!?!?! :eek: Aren't you concerned about getting garroted if the lanyard gets caught.

Don't use it like that at my jointer, the only machine I am concerned about. I often hang it on the adjuster handle of my MS.

[Jim Becker]

I started with remotes and eventually moved to a centrally located wall switch that controls a simple contactor in the cyclone closet. Remotes are easy to misplace and in some cases, unreliable over time. Hard wired just works...and taking 6-8 steps to get to the switch really isn't a major issue if you think about it. In fact, it may help you pace things so you don't rush. Rushing increases the likelihood of mistakes. ;) DAMHIKT!

[Tom Willoughby]

I am actually installing a new dust collection system right now and after using a remote control for years, I decided to go with low voltage micro switches on the blast gates. This will solve a couple of issues that cropped up from time to time: 1st, I didn't clip the remote control on an apron and I would occasionally want to make a cut on the miter saw only to realize that the remote control was over on the table saw. The 2nd issue was that while cutting on the miter saw with lack luster suction, I realized that I forgot to close the table saw blast gates.

With the micro switches on the gates, the dust collector will start when a blast gate is opened and will not shut off until all blast gates are closed.

Good luck.

Tom

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a conveniently located push button station for my cyclone, no remote controls.................Regards, Rod.

[John Lanciani]

When I bought my Oneida system they were having a special on extra remotes (something like $10 each) so I got one for each machine that is connected to the dust collector. I used velcro to attach the remotes to the mag switch enclosures on each machine so now I can start and stop the collector right from the operating position of each machine. No walking around and no searching for the remote, it is the perfect solution for me.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Contrarian........my normal style......

I have a 12+ year old long ranger driving the 3hp 220v DC. And one 12+ year-old remote, and 2 7-year-old remotes. None of the 4 components has ever failed.

The three remotes have adhesive-backed hook + loop patches on them. One is one the top of the TS rip fence. One is immediately above the jointer - pretty much directly above the power switch. The 3d is on the face of the upper wheel door on the BS - and is 1 step from the planer.

I don't lose 'em - they have a "home" - almost are permanent from that standpoint. The one on the TS fence gets moved the most often - simply because it is in the way when I clamp on secondary faces, stop blocks, etc. But - other than that, there were zero wiring cost/issues, and the switches are right where I am standing when I use the machine[s]. Too convenient for me to want to change - got tired of walking around to the DC before I got the long ranger, and then got tired of playing hide-and-seek with the single remote. The technical term is "lazy".

[Ben Hatcher]

I used a long ranger with micro-switches on my blast gates at first. Then the long ranger shorted out and melted my dc cord. Next I used a Christmas light remote which also shorted out. I'm currently using the iVac with the key fob remote that I attached to my apron. That makes me wear my apron more often which has reduced the time I spend looking for pencils and tape measures and prevented me from ruining a shirt or two.

[Mike Cruz]

You guys use dust collectors? Sheesh...

[Patrick Maloney]

I am actually installing a new dust collection system right now and after using a remote control for years, I decided to go with low voltage micro switches on the blast gates. This will solve a couple of issues that cropped up from time to time: 1st, I didn't clip the remote control on an apron and I would occasionally want to make a cut on the miter saw only to realize that the remote control was over on the table saw. The 2nd issue was that while cutting on the miter saw with lack luster suction, I realized that I forgot to close the table saw blast gates.

With the micro switches on the gates, the dust collector will start when a blast gate is opened and will not shut off until all blast gates are closed.

Good luck.

Tom




I went this route and love it. I used homemade blast gates with recessed normally-open mag sensors and a contactor. It's a cheap, efficient way to control any DC setup. I also added an adjustable delay-off timer so the DC stays running for a while after the gates close.

[Joseph Tarantino]

now, if there was a simple way to activate the blast gate automatically when the machine it services is activated, and continue to have the DC activated by the opening of the blast gate, wouldn't that just be the ultimate in DCing convenience? tool activation that activates the DC and opens the appropriate blast gate. anyone know of any such setups?

[Alan Schaffter]

now, if there was a simple way to activate the blast gate automatically when the machine it services is activated, and continue to have the DC activated by the opening of the blast gate, wouldn't that just be the ultimate in DCing convenience? tool activation that activates the DC and opens the appropriate blast gate. anyone know of any such setups?

Exactly what I did- check out the link in my post above (#10) (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?172038-Wall-Switch-or-Remote-For-Dust-Collector&p=1770103#post1770103).

"Activation" is the "simple" part- a current sensing switch mounted at each outlet or between the outlets and power cords.

Actuation of the gate can be a little complex however. There are two basic approaches (1) electro-mechanical where a motor turns a leadscrew or worm gear (ECOgate) which drives a follower or rack assembly connected to the gate slide. Also, an electric solenoid and linkage falls in this category, or (2) electro-pneumatic- an electric solenoid air valve is used to port compressed air to a pneumatic cylinder which operates the blast gate (the method I used.)

Current sensing switch:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P50400021.JPG

Prototype "pneumatic auto-gate":

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P2240012.JPG

Working "pneumatic auto-gate":

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P4280022.JPG

[Joseph Tarantino]

alan, that's slick. i'd seen something about your set up in the past, but didn't have the opportunity to view it completely. i can't imagine there being a better way to address dust collection and tool activation in a fully automated environment. cudos on a well thought out and executed application. and so i'm clear on it, each blast gate that services a tool has a corresponding power outlet associated with it. once that outlet draws curent, it's affiliated current sensor activates a low voltage "switch" which signals the blast gate to open and the DC to activate. how does the low voltage signal from the current sensor activate the blast gate and the DC? so as not to appear to be hijacking this thread, would you rather PM the reply? thanks.

[Alan Schaffter]

alan, that's slick. i'd seen something about your set up in the past, but didn't have the opportunity to view it completely. i can't imagine there being a better way to address dust collection and tool activation in a fully automated environment. cudos on a well thought out and executed application. and so i'm clear on it, each blast gate that services a tool has a corresponding power outlet associated with it. once that outlet draws curent, it's affiliated current sensor activates a low voltage "switch" which signals the blast gate to open and the DC to activate. how does the low voltage signal from the current sensor activate the blast gate and the DC? so as not to appear to be hijacking this thread, would you rather PM the reply? thanks.

Thanks! You are pretty close. Each machine has its own dedicated outlet. Those outlets each have a current sensor which IS the switch (toroid coil + integral PNP transistor). When a machine is on, current flows in the cord and outlet wiring. The sensor switch toroid is essentially a mini transformer with only one primary winding- the wire you run through the hole. The toroid has enough secondary windings that it needs only .3 amps in the power wire (primary) to induce enough current in the secondary to operate the transistor switch. The small orange and black wires coming out of each switch send 24 VDC from a single transformer to their respective solenoid air valves. A special* current sensor on the transformer power lead detects when any gate is operated (manually or automatically) and sends a *momentary signal to start the DC. I'll forward you a PM I sent earlier to someone else.