Remote Control Switch for Dust Collector

[Thomas Canfield]

I finally made the plunge and purchased an Oneida 2 HP cyclone system for my shop including the Smart Switch remote control switch. As I was checking out the remote control switch on the outlet prior to connecting the dust collector, I could not get the switch to shut off both legs of the 220V power as indicated by an inductive voltage tester. I called the manufacturer and was told that there is voltage on one leg as part of the switch, but that the amperage was too low to present a problem. It is still a little bit of a concern that you test and find 110V indication on the leg and you think the outlet should be disconnected.

Has anyone had a similar exerience? I know there are other manufacturers of remote switches out there, and may want to check out another. I have not had a response from Oneida yet on this but am interested in their position also. I am getting close to the point of being able to connect the ducts to equipment and put the system to use.

[Jim Dunn]

Tom of all the remote switch's I've seen they all break only one leg of a 230v system. I've found it to be that way in alot of switched 230v systems. Not only dust collectors.
Jim

[Lamar Horton]

I too am interested in this as I am looking into either a foot switch or a remote. All the switches I have seen have been 110 volt.

[Thomas Canfield]

Highland Hardware in Atlanta has the 220V Load Ranger Remote Control for about the same price. Does anyone know anything about this unit. I can't find anything on line as to actual manufacturer or if it completely breaks both legs.

The Fernbrook representative did tell me that both legs of the 220V were cut off but that a small amperage was allowed to pass for part of the control - not enough to get a shock or do much more than register voltage.

[Bill Lewis]

Funny Thing, I too have a recently purchased Oneida 2 HP Commercial system. I just started installing the ductwork last night.

I am not familiar with the smart switch system. Is this the same as the ecogate system?

I am using a wireless remote system that is identical to the one shown on the Oneida site. It's basically an X10 appliance module, wireless receiver, and remotes. I have never checked it with a meter to see if it only switches one leg of the power, but it works quite well.

I already had everything I needed, plus I have about 6 keychain remotes that I can place around the shop. I don't know what I have invested in the remote switching but I'm pretty sure it is less than what Oneida wants for it (~$80) www.X10.com (http://www.x10.com/) kept giving away the remotes whenever I would buy something from them.

BTW I also made my own wall bracket for the cyclone for about $15 worth of angle. A drop in the bucket considering the whole system will probably run+/- $2k (probably on the + side of it), but it was a fun welding project.

[Jim Dunn]

Thomas I hate to hijack your thread but I'm wondering if Bill could expand his explination of how he is using the X10 system. It looks like a wonderfully small and simple system. I purchased a Rockler remote for my Jet 1100 canister dust collector and it cost me $55.00!
Thomas believe me when I say it doesn't make any difference if it breakes both legs or not. Your not going to work on the motor unless it's unplugged any way. And the motor won't start on 110v if it's wired for 220v. It won't burn up the motor if it's accidentally turned on either.
Jim

[Rob Russell]

It's somewhat common for 240v devices to switch 1 leg. An example would be line level thermostats. One leg is frequently "always hot" on those. I found that out the hard way when I bought a 240v line level thermostat thinking it would be a 2-pole switch for a heating application in my workshop. Nope. Nyet. Wrong. Had to go with a relay setup ...

[Bob Winkler]

I also don't want to hijack this thread, but am also interested in the use of the X10 module.

I have lots of x10 "stuff" but hesitated using the appliance module because it's contacts are only rated for max 1/3 HP motor. I figured someday down the road I'd use the x10 module to switch a bigger motor contactor or relay.

Bob

[Jim Becker]

I used the X10 remotes for a number of years, but recently put in a contactor a-la Dennis Peacock and for now am just using a centrally located toggle switch in the shop. Even after having 7 distributed remotes in the shop, I don't find the stationary switch to be a hassle or a problem...I don't turn the cyclone off and on very frequently anyway; when it's on, it stays on until I know I no longer need it for a period of time. But even with any of the remotes, I'd suggest you employ a contactor setup for start/stop and just use the remote to switch the 110v side of the coil. The 240v side is really hard on the remote switch...I went through three of them over four years. (I'm using a 2hp Oneida Commercial cyclone system)

[Steve Cox]

I may be way off base here but ALL switches I am familiar with break only one leg. Whether they be a 12v DC switch or 115VAC or 220VAC you only need to break one side in order to stop current flow in the circuit. The difference here is that a 220VAC circuit has potential (voltage) on both legs where on DC it is ground and 115VAC it is neutral. The difference here is the potential, not in the way the circuit is switched.

[Jim Becker]

Steve....a good reason why a contactor is great...it breaks both legs. But this is also why you must totally unplug or cut the breaker when you work on anything electrical.

[jerry mayfield]

While i agree that most,if not all, 240v machines should be conected to a starter, they also should be three wire control. If wired to a maintained position device and power is interupted ,for any reason, and then is restored these machines will automatically restart. while this is not a problem with DC, it certainly could be with a saw or other cutting machine.The difference between a contactor and a starter is the starter has overload protection.
I hope i haven't confused anyone.

regards
jerry

[jerry mayfield]

I forgot to add another advantage to being connected to a starter is you can wire the remote contact is series with the starter coil. very low current flow and all power is removed from the motor when the stop button is pushed.
regards
jerry

[lou sansone]

I agree with jerry. I have a 3 phase industrial cyclone and those remotes will not work properly on them, unless you hook them up like jerry recommends. I currently use a fusable knife disconect to energize the unit and that is really not the best way to do things. The 3 wire start stop with low voltage protection is the real way to have it hooked up.

[Bill Lewis]

I use the 20 amp module (http://www.smarthome.com/2020.HTML) . "These modules are designed for single split-phase 110/220V or 120/240V systems" These should work just fine with a 2hp motor. If you have any concern, you can also get the 30 amp relay switch (http://www.smarthome.com/1289.html). which is more expensive. The three things you need to set this up is the appliance module, a wireless receiver, and the wireless remote.

For those who don't know how it works, it really is an easy set up. Basically the receiver receives the RF command from the remote which sends a signal over the powerlines which is picked up by the appliance module. You can set different addresses for individual modules so they can be controlled separately. So, for instance you could also put the dust filter box on another module and control it as well from the same remote.

I found the best way to get a deal on some X10 stuff is to go to the X10 (http://www.x10.com/) site and sign up for their e-mailer. Yes it does tend to get spammy, but it was the best way to get some good deals from them. I was already playing with X10 items, so I had a need for more. Awhile back, I took my name off their email list, so I don't know how good the deals are these days, but they used to throw in all sorts of extras like the keychain remotes, and free shipping et al. I bought one or two package deals from them, and somehow I ended up with 6 keychain remotes. Which, if purchased by themselves run about $15 to $20 each.

Smarthome (http://www.smarthome.com/) has some package deals, but tends to be a bit pricier than X10.com (http://www.x10.com/). X10 (http://www.x10.com/) has better package deals by far. Both have been around for a long time.

I did use the 20 amp module with my previous DC a Jet1200 2HP unit, and it worked fine. Before the remote, I also switched the DC with a fused disconnect box.


Thomas I hate to hijack your thread but I'm wondering if Bill could expand his explination of how he is using the X10 system. It looks like a wonderfully small and simple system. I purchased a Rockler remote for my Jet 1100 canister dust collector and it cost me $55.00!
Thomas believe me when I say it doesn't make any difference if it breakes both legs or not. Your not going to work on the motor unless it's unplugged any way. And the motor won't start on 110v if it's wired for 220v. It won't burn up the motor if it's accidentally turned on either.
Jim

[Dennis Peacock]

Well.....let's just say that my remote switch for my cyclone has been under stiff testing now for over 1.5 years and it has yet to fail me. Even it it breaks, there's not a single component that would every cost me more that $20 to replace. Keep it simple and low cost so repairs won't cost much either. :rolleyes: :D

[Ray klosek]

Here's a link for one
http://www.beautifulwood.net/html/wireless_dc.html

[Jim O'Dell]

Here's a link for one
http://www.beautifulwood.net/html/wireless_dc.html

Just so you know, that IS Dennis' do it yourself remote you have linked to! (the guy in the post right above your's!:D ) Jim.

[Dennis Peacock]

Well....whaddya know....this old thread showed up again. ;)

[Jim O'Dell]

Well....whaddya know....this old thread showed up again. ;)

Just when you thought it was safe to get back in the water!! :D I haven't hooked a remote up to mine, but I did use the information to understand what to do. Like Jim Becker, I have a central switch, mine's mounted in the ceiling, I turn my cvclone on with. My contactor trigger comes out of the box it's mounted in and plugs into a switched receptacle. I can plug in a remote anytime I decide to. So far I haven't had the need to. Jim.

[glenn bradley]

Well....whaddya know....this old thread showed up again. ;)

Face it Dennis, you're a legend.

[Jim Bell]

I use a Long Ranger 110v remote and an a/c contactor set w a 110v coil. Less than $100.00 and is very reliable.

[Neil Brooks]

I bought the Fernbrook Smart Switch (http://dnet.net/frnbrook/shopgadgets.htm) version of the 110V, 20A DC remote.

For about a month, all was well.

Beginning today, though, the system -- though I hear the click at the transceiver, AND at the "receiver" outlet -- will no longer turn off my DC.

Called and left a message for the seller, but ... any thoughts??

Thanks!
Neil

[Thomas Canfield]

Neil,

I had to install a magnetic contact on my dust collector after buying my Powermatic 3520B. The "noise" of the variable speed in the wiring caused the dust collector to start on its own and usually not when I wanted the excitement of it starting by itself. I did use the 110V part of the switch to operate the magnetic starter and have not had any problem since in over 2 years. Fernbrook did give me directions for that. Keep trying to get in contact with them.

[Neil Brooks]

Thanks much, Thomas.

I'll keep trying to get ahold of him/them.

Crossing my fingers that it's something relatively simple ... and cheap.