Face frames complete

[Jim Dunn]

Am starting a new set of drawers and figured I'd start off with the face frame. This may be a backward way of doing it but I'll figure it out, maybe. Used all half lap joints. Think I'll half to buy that planer as the big box material isn't the same thickness in the length of the same board. So had a little bit of sanding to do after the glue up.
Used the top of my down draft table for the set up. Worked well as the 3/4" dowel holes are parallel and square to each other.
The top drawers are small for storing scales and other small items. Face frame is set in the approximate area of the opening where it will reside. The top of the work bench can be removed for access to the back of the opening.
Thanks for looking and commenting.

Jim

[Mark Stutz]

Jim,
Good start. Now, I'm no expert on drawers, though I did just make eight of them :D , but for all the ones I have done, I mad the face frames first. Since I used an overlay design, it probably didn't matter, but if they are to be inset, I think the frames have to be made first, and the drawers fitted to them...or at least is will be easier that way.

Mark

[Jim Dunn]

Sounds good to me Mark.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Jim,

In the few drawers that I have built, I have always built the opening, wether it is a face frame or not, first.

Looking good so far!

Jeff

[Jim Dunn]

Thanks Jeff. I made these from popular, drawers will be 1/2" baltic birch with 1/4" bb bottoms.

[Mike Holbrook]

Yes, good start! Keep posting each step as I am about to start doing the same thing.

Where did you get that sanding block? I have one too & love it but have not been able to find another.

[Jim Dunn]

Mike, my wife found it in a craft shop, Michaels, or a local place called Art Mart. I liberated it for my own use:D. I'm going to make another one or two out of a harder wood like maple or oak as this one is made from pine.