Anyone ever see this happen

[David Nelson1]

From what I can figure out is that a screw worked its way loose without me noticing. I went to draw it back to make a cut and it just exploded. Looked around no blood so that was good. Just thought I'd share.

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[Brian W Evans]

Never seen it happen. Glad you're OK - I would have been holding it by hand and would've taken some shrapnel. Good for you for using the hold-down.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Friends don't let friends buy Craftsman miter saws...

Mine came apart when I lifted it by the carry handle.

[glenn bradley]

Friends don't let friends buy Craftsman miter saws...

Mine came apart when I lifted it by the carry handle.

Craftsman didn't invent loose screws :D:D:D but, I do have to go change my pants just from looking at the pictures. Good use of your holddowns. How many fingers have fallen victim to "I'll just make this one quick cut, I don't need the clamp"?

I frequently check fixtures on any machine that powers a fast-spinny-sharp-cutty-thingy BUT, we can all use a reminder. It is up to us to make sure our tools are in good working order and ready for use. ;). Glad the items that took the hit are replaceable (not the ones that don't grow back).

[Bruce Page]

Yikes! Glad you weren't hurt!

[phil harold]

Once it happens you,
will always look for loose screws...
DAMHIKT

I call them crapsman

[Phil Thien]

Yikes! Glad you weren't hurt!

Ditto that. This could have been a tragic post.

[Phil Thien]

Once it happens you,
will always look for loose screws...
DAMHIKT

I call them crapsman

The problem is, the saw probably came from a factory that produces several other brands of miter saws.

[Jeff Bartley]

it is indeed good that you weren't hurt! i remember meeting a carpenter a couple years ago that lost the end of a finger from the blade guard on a dewalt sliding saw.

[Glen Butler]

Well see, if you hadn't been using a guard that wouldn't have happened. Clearly using gaurds for safer woodworking is folly.:D

Glad your OK. I have never used a holddown on a miter saw . . . ever. It may be a good idea to start.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Nope - never seen it.

But I can guarantee you the equivalent bolt on my CMS is tight - because I went over there with the spin-tight as soon as I saw your photos.

Glad you're fine. Nice public service warning, also.

[Von Bickley]

Things like that will make you mark your laundry.......

[Paul McGaha]

Glad you werent hurt David.

Just went and checked mine also.

PHM

[gary Zimmel]

Thanks for the reminder that things can go bad really fast....
Glad to here nothing happened to you David.

[Larry Edgerton]

My bet is the screw that goes to the hook that you loosen to rotate the guard out of the way to change blades was loose. I did the same thing a while ago, and it was my own fault, I changed a blade and missed tightening it up. I should not have been working as I was not feeling well, but I am behind so I forged on. Did not go through my normal checklist, started the cut and "BAM!" Plastic everywhere. This was on a Makita but the guard arrangement is similar.

I never use a clamp either. but I do see two things wrong with your setup. One you have the long angle away from the fence on the end you are not cutting which puts less material up against the fence. With the huge gaps that scms saws and that one in particular have you want as much material on the fence as possible. That is just asking for the piece to rotate and catch. But from my understanding of what happened it was not a catch?

Second, I would simply not make that cut on that short of a piece on that saw without a sacrificial one piece fence. By a sacrificial fence I mean a board of enough thickness to bridge the gap between the fences and remain stiff and long enough to go the width of the saw. I usually us a piece about 3" wide so as I cut into it it is not weakened enough to flex. Lay that peice on your saw table, push you piece to be cut against it, and make your cut, just cutting into the sacrificial fence enough to get the job done. I keep these around on site, the only place I use scms saws so that if I have to make a cut like that it is handy.

That cut I would have made on a non-slider, but I always have both on site and I understand that you are a hobbiest and don't have a saw for every occasion. I have used that same saw and did not feel it was a terrible saw. Sears does sell some decent tools, just like Dewalt and so on sell some real crap.

Try a couple of cuts using a sacrificial fence to get used to the idea, just remember cutting as little of it as possible is the goal.

Glad you are ok. I did the same thing, look around for blood, and then try to figure out what the heck happened. Mine ruined the blade as well.

Have a great day, Larry

[David Nelson1]

Now for the rest of the story. I wasn't just happy to know that a srcew back out and caused the damage. I wanted to know why I didn't see the problem before it happened. The guard is held on with 2 screws one in the front that I have noted was missing, and the other is in the back where the casting was missing from the saw. The saw normally is spring load up which covers the front screw. It is only visible when its locked down or in use. I'm not looking around when sawing, I'm paying attention to the work @ hand.

I did notice a bit of a different feel when operating the saw the last couple of cuts so........... if it doesn't feel right, its problably not.

As far as the reapir goes because the main casting is broken where the aft bolt is attached I have to change that as well as the guard. The guard is around $28. The housing $228. Combined thats more than I paid for the saw.

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[Jim Foster]

I had something almost identical happen on my Delta 12" miter saw. Gave me goose bumps when I realized what happened and realized all the things that could have happened as a result. As my hand tool skills get better, I see and old fashioned handsaw miter box in my future more and more... or a Festool if the finances ever overflow

[David Nelson1]

I have an eye open for one as well, but not for rough work.