Help!! How would you do this?

[Wayne Waag]

206347

I'm replacing this 4x6 corner post on my raised deck. How would you suggest removing the material as shown from the new post which is roughly 3 1/2 by 4 1/2 by 1 1/2. I've got most basic power tools including a table saw, router bench, etc. but admit that I'm at a loss on how to "easily" proceed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

wwaag

[Ken Fitzgerald]

If it was me, I'd make a jig out of scrap wood and use my router with a straight cutting bit, and a collar.

Of course, you'd have to clean up the corner with a chisel.

[Greg Peterson]

Another way, more work, but use a forstner bit to hog out the majority of the material, clean up with chisel.

[Paul Girouard]

Set the skilsaw to the depth you need , cut into the line on the cross cut and up the vertical cut , to outline the cut. Then do a series of cuts 1/4 apart running the vertical direction, stopping at the cross cut line, you could clamp a piece of stock on to "index" the saw shoe so you don't cut past the line, after the relief cuts bust out the waste with a hammer , the chips will break off easy.

Once you break out the chaff / waste use a chisel , a sharp one, to get the rest of the waste out of the corner.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/apr101.jpg


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/apr103.jpg

You could clean up with a router , it would take some jigging up to avoid the router cutting to deep . For what it is cleaning up with a chisel would be fine in your case IMO.


http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/apr104.jpg

Good luck.

[Don Jarvie]

Circular saw and cut to the edge of your marks and then chop it out with a chisel. The saw will cut a majority of it.

[Keith Westfall]

How does a circular saw cut a notch in the end of the post?

Unless I'm seeing it wrong... :confused:

[Paul Girouard]

How does a circular saw cut a notch in the end of the post?

Unless I'm seeing it wrong... :confused:
It doesn't , it kerfs the wood in the cut area, then most of it is chipped away. The chisel cleans it out. The skilsaw just make it easier to get rid of most of the waste.

I just don't have specific photo's of what the OP needs to do, my photo's are close to what he's doing but not exactly what he's doing.

That is IF your post is directed at me.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Paul's method is a commonly used method in the construction industry as he shows in the photos.

To answer Keith's question....you would use the circular saw to make the outlining cuts....then starting at the side cut across the grain to the outline...repeat every 1/8-1/4"...as shown in the photos. Then chisel out the waste, clean up the bottom and the corner with a chisel.

Frankly, until I saw the photos, I'd forgotten about that method but it works well.

[Bas Pluim]

I'd use a circular saw for the biggest part of the cuts. Then go to Harbor Freight and buy a multi-tool for twenty bucks to finish it.

[Jim O'Dell]

Are you sure the original is a solid piece of wood? It would be real easy to do if you could laminate two boards to achieve the end piece. You could make the notch in one 2X using a jig saw or even hand saw, then laminate it to another 2X. Use some Bondo on the "seams" and to cover the screw holes, sand, and you'll never know it isn't a solid piece of wood once painted.
Can you tell I'm not very good at using chisels????:rolleyes: Jim.

[Paul Girouard]

Paul's method is a commonly used method in the construction industry as he shows in the photos.

To answer Keith's question....you would use the circular saw to make the outlining cuts....then starting at the side cut across the grain to the outline...repeat every 1/8-1/4"...as shown in the photos. Then chisel out the waste, clean up the bottom and the corner with a chisel.

Frankly, until I saw the photos, I'd forgotten about that method but it works well.


This newel was cut in a similar fashion. It's on a outside corner so it's dapped to give a equal reveal off both sides.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Dec14Bunn2.jpg

As was this one,

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Dec14Bunn4.jpg




Another corner one:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Mar16Chambers2.jpg


Works very well.

[johnny means]

Wayne, there is only one correct way to perform this operation and it will most definitely require a brand spanking new tool or at least a fancy new cutter:D

[Glen Butler]

When I have had to perform the operation at hand I mark out the post where the material will be removed. Setting proper depths on the skilsaw, I work up to each line in each direction. Then I slam my hammer claw into a saw kerf to break out the chunk, and finish it off with a chisel. If the saw marks will hide, sometimes I will fudge past the lines a little to reduce the amount that I have to chisel.

[Keith Westfall]

It doesn't , it kerfs the wood in the cut area, then most of it is chipped away. The chisel cleans it out. The skilsaw just make it easier to get rid of most of the waste.

Sorry, not a shot at anyone here, and I'm well aware of the kerf cutting method. It just didn't seem from the original picture, that a circular saw would be the tool of choice for a small notch in the end of a 4 x4 post. Hard to hold, small cut length, etc etc.

[Brian Tymchak]

If I had just one post to notch like that, I think I'd go for a chisel only. Being a soft wood, it might be as quick as setting up a power tool to do the bulk of it, and then finish with a chisel to clean up the cut.

[George Bregar]

I'd do the kerfing technique, but would use my sawzall.

[Wayne Waag]

Thanks so much for the responses.

Another question. For the replacement 4x6 posts, is it necessary to use pressure-treated lumber since they will be painted? Cedar or redwood is not available locally. Thanks again.

[George Bregar]

Thanks so much for the responses.

Another question. For the replacement 4x6 posts, is it necessary to use pressure-treated lumber since they will be painted? Cedar or redwood is not available locally. Thanks again. If it is going to contact the ground then yes. I would wait a year to paint it though.

[Wayne Waag]

If it is going to contact the ground then yes. I would wait a year to paint it though.

No, they do not touch the ground. The original posts, now over 20 years old, were pine. In fact, only some of the posts are now in need of replacement. Use of non-pressure-treated materials would certainly be easier and also more attractive.

[George Bregar]

No, they do not touch the ground. The original posts, now over 20 years old, were pine. In fact, only some of the posts are now in need of replacement. Use of non-pressure-treated materials would certainly be easier and also more attractive. Are they sitting on concrete pillars? Still better with rot resistant wood or PT but go ahead and use use pine...the worst that will happen is that they will need replacement. Seal the end to reduce wicking of moisture from the concrete.