What's yr handle, Good Buddy?

[Prashun Patel]

I finally bought some 'real' gouges from Doug Thompson. Now I'm going to make some handles for them.

I have a 1/2" bowl gouge and a 1/4" detail. I have 4 questions:

1) how deep do I drill the holes in the handles? All the way up to the flute, or is it ok to drill not that deep?
2) how long should I make them? I'm tempted to make the 1/2" gouge really long just for control, but what's overkill?
3) How wide do you typically drill the hole vis-a-vis the diameter of the shaft? One size larger, and then epoxy to hold it in place? Same size or one size smaller, and then friction fitting?
4) Is ferrule material critical? I've used copper pipe before

Sorry for the basic questions...

[Sean Hughto]

1) how deep do I drill the holes in the handles? All the way up to the flute, or is it ok to drill not that deep?
A couple of inches is sufficient on gouges this size. It's a common sense function of the stress that will be put on the tool at that point - i.e., a tool that will take a very big bite or be suceptible to a big catch may be better off deeper. Assuming a good hardwood handle and ferule, it's hard to imagine an event where you would suffer torque sufficent to break the metal out of the handle.

2) how long should I make them? I'm tempted to make the 1/2" gouge really long just for control, but what's overkill?

For some operations too long is a problem, expecially if you can only work from one side of your lathe. I would say 18" for that 1/2" at most.

3) How wide do you typically drill the hole vis-a-vis the diameter of the shaft? One size larger, and then epoxy to hold it in place? Same size or one size smaller, and then friction fitting?

Match the diameter of the shaft and epoxy for me.

4) Is ferrule material critical? I've used copper pipe before

I've used brass copper and whatever those compression fittings are - bronze? All work fine.

[Roger Chandler]

Prashun,

I think 1.75 to 2.0 inches is ideal for depth of the hole. I use either brass or copper ferules made from pipe couplings found at the plumbing supply. I have used 1.25" pipe couplers for my larger gouges and the 1 inch for 1/2 inch gouges.......personally, I like to have a decent amount of wood surrounding the shaft of the gouge and make the ferule fit snugly and expoxy it on.

[Jim Burr]

I'd like you to consider an alternative Prashun. I was talking to Bill Wyko yesterday and we both commented on what a huge difference in tool control a heavy metal/alloy handle makes. I'm not going on a worship trip about any, but I use Monsters...I know Doug has a line of them to. Well worth trying on at least one tool to see what you think.

[Sean Hughto]

Can you elaborate, Jim. What exactly are you doing when you find the heavier/metal handles are a significant aid to control? I have some metal handles and have plenty of wood ones I've made too, and I've not noticed the metal to be any particular advantage for me. In short, what am I missing? or am I just not doing the same sorts of work you guys do (I mostly make large utility bowls)?

[J.D.Redwine]

There is a link to a good tutorial on making handles (Written by Ron McKinley) at Doug Thompson's site.

Click on Handles.

[Jim Burr]

Sure Sean...I do mostly stuff under 10" because I have a Jet 1014:mad: I have 3 Thompsons with Monster handles and a Taylor bowl gouge with the stock wood handle. I use both all the time and notice less vibrating and chatter on bad wood or burls and better control when doing shear cuts with a weighty handle. Not having a curved tool rest, when doing deeper pots and such, I have to overhang the tool over the rest more than I'd like. Far less vibration than the wood handle. I'm giving serious thought to having Randy make a handle for my Taylor because I really do like the grind and the way it cuts. Hope that helps!:D

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to use wood on these; part of the (perceived) fun in getting these was making my own handles. But Jim, yr point is well taken. I'm thinking now about drilling the butt and filling with some lead?

[Wally Dickerman]

Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to use wood on these; part of the (perceived) fun in getting these was making my own handles. But Jim, yr point is well taken. I'm thinking now about drilling the butt and filling with some lead?

I don't care much for the metal handles. I have several gouges with wood handles that I've added lead shot in the butt end to add a little weight and better balance. I especially like the added weight with a couple of heavy duty scrapers that I've added lead shot to. (I used to do a lot of skeet shooting and loaded my own shotshells so I have a lot of #9 shot)

[curtis rosche]

buy a oneway handle. i have the longer one and i love it

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Wally. Most of my tools have long wooden handles but do keep a couple of heavy metal handles for certain situation where there is a lot of chatter.

[Reed Gray]

There is a tutorial on making your own handles on Doug's site. All of his gouges have a mark on them for how deep you need to drill. With my ferrules, I like heavy brass, and I make the fit very tight as in put the gouge in first, then tap/pound the ferrule on.

I tried the Glaser gouges with the lead shot in the handles and didn't like them. Too much weight in the butt end, and too much weight for a long day of turning. I don't hold on the very end of the handle, but choked up a bit with the end of the handle under my fore arm. I think vibration is best absorbed by keeping the tool rest closer to the work. I do reach out up to 3 or 4 inches, but that isn't often.

Just me and my idiotsyncracies.

robo hippy

[Prashun Patel]

Thank you, everyone for the help. I completed two handles. I won't show pictures because of the substandard drilling job I did. Everything fits and works well, but it ain't as pretty as those great gouges deserve.

This brings me to my next question: How do you drill a straight hole in a long spindle? It's very hard to keep the tail end turning perfectly concentric - even with the support of the bit; I ended up getting a slightly oversized hole.

[David E Keller]

Been a while since I turned one, but I mounted the drill bit in the headstock. I just pushed the blank onto the spinning bit by hand. I drilled first then used the tail center in the drill hole while turning.

[Sean Hughto]

I put my jacobs on the tail, but otherwise, what Mr. Keller said.

[Prashun Patel]

So do you just grasp the jacob's chuck (or blank - whatever's on the tailstock side) by hand? That's what I do, but it seems kind of dangerous.

[John Keeton]

I am approaching the two year mark on my woodturning, and my Thompson 1/2" V gouge is down to 4" of flute. While I like the wood handles, and don't mind making them, I hate the thought of losing a handle because I may not be able to get the old gouge out of it when the time comes (soon!)

For that reason alone, I am looking at getting a couple of handles. While I think Doug makes a great handle, I kind of like the idea of a "warmer" feel in the winter. Both Randy (Monster) and Dave Schweitzer (D-Way) have cushioned handles. I have looked at Dave's, and like them, and I intend on looking at Randy's at the Ohio Valley event. Randy's are double ended, and I kind of like that feature, too. One could use the handle for either a 3/8" or 1/2" - or, 1/2" and 5/8", etc.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd say turning handles was about the easiest thing I've done so far on the lathe. I made 2 in about an hour, so I don't think losing them is that big a deal. If you really want to reuse the handle, the Hosaluk or Threadlock (sp?) ferrules are grub-screwed, so they prevent you having to use epoxy. Just a thought that I'm sure you've already thought of.

[John Keeton]

Prashun, I have/had my D-Way gouge in a handle with a Hosaluk insert, but I won't be doing that again! In a moment of inattention, my gouge contacted the edge of a bowl I had spinning (wasn't making a cut, and I don't really know exactly what happened!) The gouge slammed down on the toolrest, and the handle split 3/4 of the way down the handle. The insert and gouge went the other direction - fortunately.

IMO, the Hosaluk insert requires maximum removal of wood for the insert, and with no ferrule, a much weakened junction of the tool and handle is the result.

[Sean Hughto]

While I enjoy making my own, I have some of Trent Bosch's which I use all the time:

http://www.trentbosch.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=25

Yet another option.

[Prashun Patel]

Wow, John. Great information. I had not even considered that. Thanks for sharing that experience.
- pp

[Reed Gray]

You can buy a drill chuck for your tailstock, and I have found that pretty simple. I use a forstner bit, and always start by rough turning the blank round, then drill the hole, then center the hole on your tailstock and finish drilling. A forstner bit will go in a bit straighter than twist bits. You do have to clear the chips about once for every 1/2 inch of depth. Mounting the drill bit in your headstock is another option, with feeding it by using your tailstock, or just hand push it. By hand can be fairly accurate with practice. Keep the tailstock close to help line things up.

robo hippy

[Ron McKinley]

For drilling off the lathe I've found that starting with a smaller bit than you need and working up to the final diameter works best. If you start with a 1/8" bit it's pretty easy to get it in straight, especially if your hand drill has a level on it. Then move up to a 1/4" and on up to 1/2" by eighths using regular bits—not spur, spade or Forstner bits........Ron

[Jake Helmboldt]

I do like Sean. There are a few ways/step, but here is what I prefer.

1. mount blank in chuck. You can turn a shoulder first between centers to get it to seat and line up straight.
2. Mount the drill (Jacobs) chuck in the tailstock.
3. With the lathe off bring the bit up to the end at the center point
4. turn on lathe and start advancing the quill
5. once the hole is drilled you can use the cone center in the hole and it automatically centers the blank to turn it.

I find this drills a straighter hole and on center. I tried the Raffan method once where he freehands it and uses the bit in the headstock. I ended up with a lousy hole. So my way has a few more steps, but I get better results.

I use just a bit of wood glue in the hole and have never had a problem with anything coming loose. In fact, I'd bet you don't need anything. Raffan doesn't use anything, just a tight fit. And he also shows a neat trick. To seat the gouge in the handle press it in as far as you can and then whack the back end of the handle with a mallet several times while holding the hanle. It will drive the gouge up into the handle, even though you are holding the handle. He even says something like "it never seems like this should work". But it does.

[Prashun Patel]

I guess my confusion is how to keep the bit from spinning with the blank as it advances into it. I have just held on to the chuck by hand, but that seems dangerous, and sometimes it can get hard to resist the torque. Ok, dumb question: is there a way to LOCK the tailstock so it does not rotate with the head?

[Michael Mills]

I do like Reed and just use a chuck (with m2 taper) in the tailstock. I only have to hold it when retracting the bit from the wood as the grip of the bit/wood may be greater than the grip of the taper in the tailstock.
If you have a drill press with appropriate taper you can just pop it out of your drill press and not buy another one ($15-30).

IF I had “real” gouges I would still use my chuck-on-a-stick. Most chucks have 3/8” post connector and you can insert the bolt as far as you want into the wooden handle, on mine I went 2.5 – 3 inches. This is a ¼” chuck for small stuff but I have a half inch also. Unless you are swapping gouge types frequently it may work for you.