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Mark AJ Allen
08-24-2011, 4:24 PM
Hi All

I have recently built myself a shooting board and I was just wondering what criteria people are using to select a plane to use on it? Since the board is built and size is fixed, I'm likely limited to planes available to use on it. I'm mostly asking because I find the whole setup rather uncomfortable on my hand when holding the plane and I'm thinking I'm probably not choosing the best plane for the job and my own comfort. I'm limited in funds and if there is a plane that fits the criteria people for shooting planes better than the ones I'm currently owning, then I might have purchase another plane for shooting.

john brenton
08-24-2011, 4:30 PM
You'll probably get some pricey options thrown at you. I use an old Stanley 60 1/2. Works great. I've used bevel up planes at 45* at times and it works...but the BU low angle really does make a difference.

Tony Zaffuto
08-24-2011, 4:39 PM
I got a LN #9 miter plane that works nicely, but I like my LN #62 (low angle jack) better. The LA jack would be even better with a hot dog handle.

Chris Griggs
08-24-2011, 4:56 PM
I use two planes on my shooting board. A Woodriver #6 and the LV low angle block. When I got the LV block I didn't intend to use it as a shooter, but it works surprisingly well and is much more comfortable to grip on it's side then a bailey/bedrock style plane. Of course, on anything much more then 3-4 inches wide, the larger no. 6 is a very nice size for shooting. I wouldn't want the block as my only shooting plane.

I would like to get a dedicated shooter, since I prefer to keep a moderate camber on my 6 for use as a try plane, and I find it somewhat uncomfortable to grip on it's side (although if I bothered to make a handle this would imporve things). I will probably end up getting the LV LA jack for that purpose alone.

In general, I think a good all alround shooting plane is in the no 5 to 7 size. Extra mass is a benefit, which is why so many like the 5 1/2. A low angle helps, but simply making sure whatever you use has a good sharp blade it in is most important. Sides square to the sole makes things much easier, but is not a necessity.

Have you looked at this shooting plane comparison by Derek Cohen (http://inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ShootingPlanesCompared.html)? It's good info.

Simon Frez-Albrecht
08-24-2011, 5:29 PM
I started out using my block plane, the only one suitable at the time. It was difficult to say the least-hard to hang on to, no mass to carry it through the board, etc.

Then I used my Stanly/Baily #5, which works pretty well. Now I have a Stanly #8, which works really well. Allows to shoot thicker material (though I don't usually shoot anything thicker than 1" anyways), has plenty of mass to carry through a full pass of end grain, and it's certainly large enough for positive registration on the board.

Andrew Gibson
08-24-2011, 5:39 PM
Depending on the material being shot. I have used just about every bench plane I have on the shooting board with good success.
now I mainly use my LV BU Jack and my trusty 60-1/2 block plane...

Sometimes I get lazy and just reach in and pick the sharpest plane in the box... :P

Bill Haumann
08-24-2011, 6:30 PM
I now use my Old Street Tool strike block plane, but I waited a long time for it (well worth the wait). It is simply fantastic, and I especially like the 2 1/2 inch wide iron.
Before that, a #5 did a fine job.

tico vogt
08-24-2011, 7:58 PM
The L-N Miter Plane. Worth every penny.

John A. Callaway
08-24-2011, 8:24 PM
Tom Figden and Rob Cosman .... and David Charlesworth all seem to stand behind the LN 5& 1/2 as a all around plane. It's a fantastic shooting plane, as well as a jack plane, a smoother, and with a toothed blade it works well to surface prep most woods that are prone to tear out.

Yes, some of you are rather tired of me talking about it.... but the more i use it, and the more see others using it in videos and books.... the more satisfied I am with it as my go to plane , as well as my first premium plane purchase.

It doesnt have a handle to hold it on its side very well, but the mass of the tool makes it stay in the cut quite nicely...

Don Dorn
08-24-2011, 10:03 PM
LV BU Jack - it's about 5 1/2 size and works perfectly on the shooting board. Can't put my finger on why, but it's very comfortable to hold for that operation and don't think I'd bother with a hot dog, even if there were one to fit it.

James Owen
08-25-2011, 12:47 AM
Lie-Nielsen #9 Iron Mitre Plane. Plus, if you ask them (they'll hit you up for an extra $25, which I found to be well worth spending), they will drill and tap both sides and put the old-style cherry handle on the plane, in addition to the hot dog. Works beautifully and is ultra-comfortable.

Casey Gooding
08-25-2011, 8:41 AM
I have used Stanley 5 & 6 as well as Lie-Nielsen 62. All worked well. Though the L-N 62 with hot dog attachment was probably the most comfortable.

Jessica Pierce-LaRose
08-25-2011, 9:13 AM
As others have said, I love the LN 62 for this stuff, especially as the piece gets better. For thinner pieces (drawer sides, etc.) of anything not incredibly hard, I really like a low angle block, but in a pulling configuration.

Mark AJ Allen
08-25-2011, 10:28 AM
OK thanks for the good responses, as well as the link to Derek's assessment. I think I will definitely be purchasing a new plane fo this purpose. I like the idea of using a specialized or Low Angle Plane. I'm uncertain if anyone else has had this experience but I am currently using my #4 LV smoother for shooting because of it's big footprint. When using it for a few minutes, I noticed blood so I checked my hands. Sure enough, I had cut the heel of my hand holding the plane on the BOTTOM edge of the plane iron using what I felt was a comfortable and effective grip. I contemplated making a grip but the idea of tapping holes in my plane was not appealing.

Chris Griggs
08-25-2011, 11:01 AM
OK thanks for the good responses, as well as the link to Derek's assessment. I think I will definitely be purchasing a new plane fo this purpose. I like the idea of using a specialized or Low Angle Plane. I'm uncertain if anyone else has had this experience but I am currently using my #4 LV smoother for shooting because of it's big footprint. When using it for a few minutes, I noticed blood so I checked my hands. Sure enough, I had cut the heel of my hand holding the plane on the BOTTOM edge of the plane iron using what I felt was a comfortable and effective grip. I contemplated making a grip but the idea of tapping holes in my plane was not appealing.

You don't need to tap your plane - you can make a wooden "hotdog". I believe Derek has a tutorial on his site about how to do this, and I've seen several other folks on this forum post pics of theirs. Hopefully someone who has done this can add a pic to this thread for you.

David Weaver
08-25-2011, 11:58 AM
Or just break the edge that's cutting you - with an abrasive. It's *your* plane, so you can make it what you want.

Mike Olson
08-25-2011, 1:04 PM
I use a Stanley Jenny Transitional plane for Shooting. Transitional have a nice thick wooden body that keeps it nice and secure on it's side. And it has all the adjustments of the all metal planes. They are pretty cheap if you can find them, but they are a little hard to find.

Jim Koepke
08-25-2011, 2:34 PM
Mark,

Welcome to the Creek. Your profile doesn't indicate your location. You may live close to someone who would be willing to let you try different options.

My solution was to purchase an LN #62 and a hot dog for shooting.

I have a bad shoulder and the low angle bevel up configuration is less torture for me.

Before that a Stanley/Bailey #6 was used. A hot dog was made for it.

You can see the images and the evolution of the handle here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?130114-Shooting-Board-Plane

jtk

Mark AJ Allen
08-25-2011, 4:00 PM
I have seen a number of designs for hot dogs. My concern is how well they attach to the plane. I don't feel that a friction fit would be sufficient but I'm new and some of the designs seem to work that way, so I will give it a try and see what I can come up with. I still believe I would be better suited buying a dedicated plane for the task. Maybe I just want an excuse to buy some tools :p

Joel Goodman
08-25-2011, 4:38 PM
I believe the hot dog often attaches with a brass allen head set screw.

Orlando Gonzalez
08-25-2011, 5:19 PM
I have the Philly (Phil Edwards) wooden Skewed Miter plane in Goncalo Alves. A great plane by an outstanding craftsman.

David Keller NC
08-25-2011, 8:26 PM
Hi All

I have recently built myself a shooting board and I was just wondering what criteria people are using to select a plane to use on it? Since the board is built and size is fixed, I'm likely limited to planes available to use on it. I'm mostly asking because I find the whole setup rather uncomfortable on my hand when holding the plane and I'm thinking I'm probably not choosing the best plane for the job and my own comfort. I'm limited in funds and if there is a plane that fits the criteria people for shooting planes better than the ones I'm currently owning, then I might have purchase another plane for shooting.

As I'm sure you've figured out from the many posts on this thread, just about anything will work on a shooting board, although a high cutting-angle plane may not be the best solution in terms of surface finish and force required to use it.

But - you say you're limited in funds and would prefer to use something you already have, but you don't list what you already have. I personally use a L-N #9 and a British infill miter plane, but I would not recommend either for someone that has a very limited plane selection and/or limited funds, because these aren't ideal for other uses.

If you have a Stanley #5, #6 or even a #7 (or their LN/LV equivalents), try these first before you buy something else. I'm betting that you'll find deficiencies in the design of your shooting board, grip, technique, or all three, and fixing any one of these will be much cheaper than buying a new plane. One thing, btw, that is absolutely critical to shooting end grain is sharpness. When you use the plane, you should wind up with micro-thin end-grain shavings, not dust. If you get dust, your blade isn't sharp enough, and that will lead to considerably higher force required to shoot, and that will lead to inaccuracies and/or frustration.

Also - if you cut yourself on the bottom arris of the top portion of the blade in your L-V plane, that's an ultra-easy fix. Either run a file, sandpaper or honing stone across this edge and dull it a bit. If you're squeamish about making any alterations to your plane, use blue painter's tape. Viola - instant grip improvement.

Jim Koepke
08-26-2011, 1:32 PM
I have seen a number of designs for hot dogs. My concern is how well they attach to the plane. I don't feel that a friction fit would be sufficient but I'm new and some of the designs seem to work that way, so I will give it a try and see what I can come up with. I still believe I would be better suited buying a dedicated plane for the task. Maybe I just want an excuse to buy some tools :p

The one used on my #6 is a friction fit that also seats against the back of the frog. It is not a good enough fit to use the hot dog for carrying the plane, but it does the job.

A low angle bevel up Jack is a great plane for shooting.

jtk

Mark AJ Allen
08-29-2011, 2:43 PM
Thanks again all. I did try some of the suggestions.

I didn't mention the planes I had but for now, the preference is the #4 LV Smoother. I did make a 'hot dog' of sorts but as I suspected, even with some more advanced extensions to it that reach round the inside, it slides around a fair bit and doesn't grasp to the plane as I would like it to. I also was careful to not allow the hotdog to exert pressure on the frog. I suspect that would have had a negative impact to the plane over time. I'm a bit sad it didn't work. It would have been a fun solution to the problem. I have other planes, but they aren't suitable to shooting because the sidewalls don't have sufficient area to have a good contact to the board.

In the end, I got the tape out and put a couple of layers of it on the back of the iron. No more cuts, multiple comfortable options to hold the plane and from other information, a well built shooting board + my sharp blades giving me hair thin shavings with a very satisfying SHICK sounds while cutting.

Joel Goodman
08-29-2011, 3:51 PM
Tap the hot dog you made for a brass allen head set screw-- not the plane. The set screw will keep the hot dog in place.

Mark Baldwin III
08-29-2011, 9:41 PM
The Hock jack plane kit works very well, even with the 45 degree angle. I reckon it's due to the fact that the irons take an edge really well and hold it. It is probably also the least expensive option. I know that mine will hold me over until I can buy or build a dedicated mitre plane.