Ladder Accidents this summer

[Brian Kent]

If there is any wisdom on ladder safety, please pass it on.

This summer at our church:

1) John is on a ladder on the side of his house. Reaches far to the side. The ladder tips. He jumps off and lands on his feet - onto concrete and crushes his heal. No surgery possible, just 4 months plus of no foot use, followed by a lifetime of orthopedic shoes, as the bag of bone chips forms a new heel.

2) Sylvia thinks she is on the bottom rung, steps off the second rung, falls against the ladder and breaks 2 ribs.

3) Mary sprains an ankle when the ladder tips.

4) Harold asks for prayer as his cousin just died while cleaning his church steeple in another part of the country.

In addition to throwing away all ladders and becoming wealthy enough to hire professionals to climb ladders for us… any safety rules?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Brian......check this out: http://www.osha.gov/Publications/portable_ladder_qc.html

Safety isn't an accident.

1. Don't over exend reaching while on a ladder.

2. Make sure the ladder is on a stable level surface.

3. Use a safety harness if working at extremely high elevations.

4. Look where you are stepping.

5. An extension ladder with a base that is wider than the main part of the ladder is more stable.

[Ed Griner]

Brian, My first suggestion is rent a lift or a bucket truck! Ladders are dangerous!

[Dick Strauss]

3 points of contact at all times...

[Dave Anderson NH]

My first stop Brian would be the link that Ken has just posted. Ladders scare me and I am hyper careful when working off of one or climbing one. I was a rockclimber and mountaineer for most of my life and on stable rock height has never bothered me. Ladders are a different matter entirely, they can fall down while rock faces rarely do.

I would comment that you should always overbuy in both weight capacity (strength) and in length. Extra weight capacity means a ladder than is of better quality, stiffness, and far exceeds the minimum standards. Extra length means you can angle the ladder a little more safely, don't always have to go to the top on a steplader, and you can have greater length of an extension ladder overlapping increasing stiffness. You would also have a longer section of ladder extending above a roofline making the transition from ladder to roof or vice versa a lot safer.

[Joel Goodman]

And most important on a step type ladder don't forget to make sure that the device that holds it open is fully engaged. Don't ask me how I know this, but a 12' fall gave me enough time to think about how stupid I was. Fortunately no broken bones resulted!

[Jim Rimmer]

I'm a safety manager for a large company on the Ship Channel in Houston. We cover ladder safety a couple of times a year. The advice given already is good. In addition, check the weight rating - unfortunately people in the US a getting bigger. Cheap ladders are usually rated around 200 to 250 lbs. That will barely hold a lot of men I know and you have to add in the weight of the tools and materials they have. Which brings up the next thing - don't go up or down a ladder with items in your hand; raise or lower them in a bucket. Someone already mentioned 3 points of contact - 2 hands and 1 foot or 1 hand and both feet. When using an extension ladder, tie it off - I would bet that not one homeowner ever does this. Already mentioned but don't over reach; move the ladder. On step ladders, pay attention to the label that says "Do Not Stand On or Above This Step"'. It's there for a good reason; if you don't abide by it you put the majority of the weight too high and the ladder is unstable.

If there is a Home Depot near you that rents equipment, they have (at least in my area) self propelled bucket lifts for $150/day. May sound high but probably about the same as your co-pay at the emergency room.

[Stephen Tashiro]

I wonder what percent of ladder accident victims are overweight or over sixty. People who work on ladders should be realistic about their current physical body rather than working like they did when they were in better shape.

[Jason Roehl]

Having spent countless hours on ladders, I can add a couple, though I do disagree with some of the conventional, OSHA-approved advice.

1. Not over-reaching means that you keep your hips (and your center of gravity/mass) between the rails of the ladder.
2. Stand with your feet touching the outer rails--as far apart as possible.
3. When setting up a ladder, climb one step up and bounce on it a little. If it's going to move, it will do it here.
4. Wear thick-soled boots--this will greatly reduce foot fatigue. Also, the high arch on boots will cradle the rungs of the ladder helping prevent your foot from slipping off.
5. Don't climb with your arms, use your legs--they're much stronger. Also, climb with your hands sliding along the back side of the rails, not grabbing rungs. This way, you can't grab and miss a rung with your hands. (My one exception to this is when I have a bundle of shingles on my shoulder, also rare!)
6. Use a ladder stabilizer. They do make a ladder a little more top-heavy, but far more stable against a building, and increase the area you can safely work on above the ladder. They also put you a little farther from the building which allows you to lean into/against the ladder while you work (less tiring/safer).
7. I've been to hundreds of houses. There is no such thing as a firm, level surface. People like to build their houses in the sides of hills, in the woods, next to creeks, etc. Leg levelers and stakes are your friends.

As for my disagreements, I don't generally tie off a ladder unless I am going to leave it in one place all day. Most of the time I am up and down quickly and only at the top in one location for 10 minutes or so max. For that same reason, I don't mess with buckets and ropes to pull my tools up. I also don't extend a ladder much above a roof. I'm much more comfortable climbing over the top of the ladder than trying to step around it over the abyss.

[Jerry Bruette]

Careful with the bucket lifts folks. They bring about a whole new set of hazards.

You should be wearing a full harness and fall arrest equipment when using a lift. If you do use a harness and the fall arrest make sure you tie off at the manufacturer's designated tie off point. Any where else may not support you if you fall. And even with the fall protection you can hang from the harness and laynard for only about five minutes before you start to damage tissue from lack of blood and oxygen.

Our training at work tells us that most serious injuries from ladders happen from about 12 feet or less. The message that you're falling doesn't travel from your brain to your muscles as fast as you do from the ladder to the ground. In other words you can't react fast enough to protect yourself.

Jerry

[Brian Kent]

Keep 'em coming. These words of advice are good for me, and hopefully for others also.

I had never heard of a ladder stabilizer, leg levelers, or using stakes.

Thanks.

[Matt Meiser]

I sprained my wrist pretty badly about 10 years ago falling off the second step of a step ladder while siding my garage. One leg slipped off the concrete into dirt and I went over. Like Jerry says, its not just heights that will get you.

The real bummers were a) I was literally an hour or two from finishing and it took another month and b) we bought our first camper right after and the tent fabric was so strong that they offered $250 off if you could rip a sample. I know I could have done it if I didn't have a bum wrist. That was way more than my ER co-pay at the time.

[glenn bradley]

… any safety rules?

Just the same ones our dad's dads, our dad's and we have all been taught. Oh, and you have to follow them too.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Keep 'em coming. These words of advice are good for me, and hopefully for others also.

I had never heard of a ladder stabilizer, leg levelers, or using stakes.

Thanks.

Brian.....you have probably seen the stabilizers and leg levelers.....even in the Borgs....they are accessories that most people don't want to purchase.....do a search on Little Giant Ladders and go to their home page. You will see stabilzers and leg levelers....

[ray hampton]

all good points but a bucket-cherry picker or scaffold would be better and safety for me

[Jason Roehl]

I should clarify:

Stabilizers are wide, u-shaped bars that clamp to the ladder with u-bolts, flanges and wing nuts, between the ladder and the wall at the top rung. I've yet to see a durable quick-release system for them, so I'd stick with stabilizers that come with the fore-mentioned u-bolts, etc.

Leg levelers clamp to one or both feet of the ladder to allow for sideways unevenness or slope. They can even be used on stairways. One alternate option is to use the Pivit Tool ( http://www.amazon.com/ProVisionTools-APVT-PiViT-Ladder-Leveling/dp/B000095SGF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314237346&sr=8-1 --I have one and love it. It works on stairs and slopes, including roofs up to a certain pitch, just don't use it for a stabilizer as they advertise--DAMHIKT). On most ladders that have sawtooth feet, you can get 1-2" of leveling by leaving one foot with the rubber pad down and one flipped to the tooth-down position on soft surfaces.

I use stakes when I have to set a ladder up on a steep hill--either side to side (and using the Pivit or leg leveler), or away from the building. I drive them in downhill of the feet to keep the ladder from slipping. That's only when the toothed portion of my ladder feet isn't enough to hold the ladder in place.

[Jim Underwood]

Just saw an article in a remodeling magazine where a remodeler keeps a completely built set of stairs in a warehouse for upper floor remodels. Saves wear and tear on the customer's living rooms and keeps the climbers safe, as well as saving tons of time... not to mention money. I know it's not feasible for us homeowners, but for some of you contractors, it's worth looking into...

[Chris Damm]

Too bad you can't teach common sense! I've found that to be the best method to preventing accidents but it seems to be in short supply these days.

[Brian Elfert]

The last time I had to power wash my two story house I rented a towable bucket lift. It cost about $200 for 24 hours. No way I would even attempt this from a ladder.

My house has seamless steel siding and it gets very dirty from cobwebs and such. I have to power wash it at least once a year.

[Will Rowland]

I was building a fence this summer, and was standing on the 3rd step of a 6 ft BORG step-ladder (on slightly uneven ground) cutting the top of a post off with a circular saw, when the ladder just "buckled" on me and I had to jump off, circular saw in hand.

After that I replaced both my 6' and 8' step-ladders with the Werner Type IAA 375-lb ladders. To me, the difference in rigidity/stability between the type IAA ladders and the cheap ones from the BORGS is phenomenal, to the point where I think the cheap ladders should be illegal.

I ordered both the new ladders from Amazon. With my "Prime" shipping I had them in 2 days.

[ray hampton]

I hate to say this but did you remember to loosen your grip on the saw-switch ? glad that you was not hurt

[anthony wall]

never climb from a ladder onto a roof unless you have tied the ladder at the top and keep your shoulders centered on the ladder when working not your hips as has been suggested

[ray hampton]

anthony wall,I do not understand how ladders can be tied off

[Larry Edgerton]

I live on ladders. I have not worked on a house in years that was less than three stories. One I am working on now has 36 foot ceilings in the living room, with a 20/12 pitch, and the other is 4 stories built on a sand dune.

I hate ladders!

On the tie it off thing, that is just not possible in most cases. Tie it to what? If you did install anchors, how do you fix the anchor points on the way down? People generally do not want holes in their new homes. A dumb rule that has little practical application.

My number one rule is if it does not feel right, don't do it. Get down and find a better way. If you are tense, you stand a much better chance of getting hurt. If you can't do it yourself and feel comfortable, hire someone that can do it. Its better than getting hurt.

Use ladder mittens. They are soft rubber and will grab traction when the bare ladder would slide, and as a bonus will minimize damage.

Sometimes a ladder is not the answer. Sometimes schaffold is the answer, sometimes a lift, and if you are not a pro, sometimes you just need to realize your limitations and hire someone for the job.

I have learned to be more carefull the hard way. And like anyone that does what I do, there have been accidents. I broke my hip in my twenties on a thirty foot fall, and the first thing out of the company owners mouth was what that was going to do to his comp rate. That taught me that I need to look out for myself, be #1, and not do things that do not feel right.

Gotta run...... Time to get on the ladders.

Larry

[anthony wall]

there is always a way to tie a ladder if you are going up a roof screw strong hooks to the facia board or to the truss ends and rope to those if no other option is available when you take the screws out again fill the holes with acrylic filler ,its much better than falling and injuring yourself if you are working on a customers house explain the procedure to them ,if they dont agree then dont do the job . in the uk it is usualy just a matter of sliding up a couple of tiles and then ropeing direct to the truss but roofs are generaly built slightly different in the uk which would allow for this method to be used

[Jason Roehl]

I'd starve if I did it that way, Anthony. Instead, I use the safety device that's above and between my shoulders, and the skill I've gained from doing it for 15+ years. None, and I mean none, of my competition ties off their ladders, so adding that detail alone would probably put me out of business.

[anthony wall]

jason falling from any big height would also probably put you out of business too and maybe much worse

[Steve Griffin]

Excellent list by Jason,

Especially "bouncing" the ladder. The first few steps I get pretty radical testing it's footing, slope angle and top placement.

I'd add that shorter ladders can be more dangerous than tall ladders because of human nature. When I use my 28' extension, I'm cautious as can be, but it's the 6 footer which is easiest to get complacent with and still get plenty hurt.


I do disagree with the advice to wear "thick" soled boots. I prefer medium weight hikers so I can "feel" the ladder and know where I am.

-Steve

[Walter Plummer]

I actually parked the truck to watch 2 guys painting a church steeple last summer. Bucket lift to about the bottom of the steeple and then the extension ladder to the top:eek:. I think the guy still in the bucket was "holding" the ladder.:rolleyes: It was almost as good as watching Moe, Larry, and Curly.

[Curt Harms]

I sprained my wrist pretty badly about 10 years ago falling off the second step of a step ladder while siding my garage. One leg slipped off the concrete into dirt and I went over. Like Jerry says, its not just heights that will get you.

The real bummers were a) I was literally an hour or two from finishing and it took another month and b) we bought our first camper right after and the tent fabric was so strong that they offered $250 off if you could rip a sample. I know I could have done it if I didn't have a bum wrist. That was way more than my ER co-pay at the time.

I fell off a two step ladder a few years ago. Probably didn't fall more than 3-4'. Shattered my wrist and have permanent hardware installed.

[David Prince]

I do not like using boots on a ladder. The arch area does cup the rung, but it also can make your foot uneven and want to slide towards the rung while you are going up and down. I like a good flat tennis shoe so I can "feel" the rung under my foot.

I have had more problems with the style of extension ladder that skips a rung where the extension locks are. How many times have you been going up or down a ladder thinking about your project and put you foot where there should be a rung and find out it is in the position of the locks and doesn't have that rung and your foot hits "air"?

Adjust the feet into the upper sideways position and let the rails of the ladder stab into the ground to help secure it if you want to keep it in place on soil. Use the rubber feet on cement.

[Anthony Fields]

Another silly answer. If you are on any medications, beware of what you're doing. 10 feet up, blacked out. Chain saw went one way and I went the other. All is well that ends well. No injuries. Whew.

Work safely, and tie off your ladders.

We all make mistakes.

[Ole Anderson]

Many years ago I watched as a painter on an aluminum ladder working at about 30 feet brushed his arm against a 4800 volt line coming into the mall building, he did a backflip off the ladder and ended up with his chin on the concrete curb. Not a pretty sight.

I am the one that gets to do all the work up in the exposed timber trusses at church. I have installed lights, fans and sound equipment. As soon as I climb the ladder, I tie it to the beam, then I tie off to the beam myself.

[Anthony Fields]

My friends dad used to take a crowbar and tap it down over the bottom rung to keep it from kicking out. Smart guy.

[Larry Edgerton]

I'd starve if I did it that way, Anthony. Instead, I use the safety device that's above and between my shoulders, and the skill I've gained from doing it for 15+ years. None, and I mean none, of my competition ties off their ladders, so adding that detail alone would probably put me out of business.

Exactly! Too many of the new regulations are written by people that do not have a clue how to do the work, nor have any idea what it is like to be in business. The new roofing safety regs are just such an example. It adds very little safety to the job but adds to the cost. If you do it as required you will get out bid by someone who is not complying with the rules, but in my case I have too much to lose so I just quit doing roofs.

The EPA lead laws are another that has decimated my restoration business, totally rediculious rules that are not possible to meet. I no longer restore old homes. If lead paint is found in the soil I have to remove 6" of soil, have it hauled away by a toxic waste hauler @ aprox $280 a yard, and replace. The thing is the homeowner does not call me until the paint is falling off, so I have already failed if I accept the job. I can't afford the $32K fine, so I just don't take the jobs any more.

To all of those quoting some government safety brochure, reality is not that simple. Houses are not always willing to fit into their neat little box.

I am just about ready to call it quits......

Larry

[ray hampton]

Larry, I would not blame you for quitting, it is dirty work but someone got to do it