Do I really need a router Lift????

[Dick Thomas]

Situation: I bought a P-C 893PK kit (fixed & plunge bases) and intend to build an add-on table for it on my Rigid TS-3650 tablesaw. A recent Rockler flyer is running a table top special including an HPL table, Fence w/DC port, FX lift, and a 4-pc accessory kit. The combination price looks pretty good, compared to what I've found in their on-line catalog, but the question is, Do I really need a lift?? PC has an accessory micro adjustment knob (PN 75301) for about $25 +/- which supposedly allows above-the-table fine adjustment.

Can anyone give me some comparison info between the 2 options?

Many thanx,
DickT

[Nelson Howe]

I did the Lee valley circular table insert and like a lot. I don't use my router every day so I don't mind that it's not as mucdh of a dedicated machine and you can pop it right out and use in fixed base mode.

[Brian Kent]

Dick, I use the 890 series router in my table. The only weakness I experience with the built-in lift in the PC 890 is that when the lock/release lever is disengaged so you can use the fine adjust knob, the body of the router slips just a little. It is workable for me because I always double check height before I make a cut, but it would be far better if I could release the lock, turn the knob a certain distance, and know that I had adjusted the height by an exact amount.

[Doug Colombo]

I have a rotor lift (Woodpeckers PRL) and it makes things much easier to get an accurate setting. I also found that it reduces set up time quite a bit. IMO it is not a "have to have" (unless you are using the rotor table daily), but it sure is a "great to have".

[Neil Brooks]

Couldn't agree more, with Doug.

I got the PRL V1 on sale, and ... consider it a luxury that I would prefer never to do without, again.

But its value seems diminished if your router has decent above-the-table adjustments, and you don't /still/ have to go underneath to lock it down.

But I truly enjoy the stable, simple, precise adjustment -- particularly when setting up more finicky cuts (eg, glue joint bits).

I also find the Woodpecker to be a very well made product.

[Brian Kent]

On the 890 I have 2 holes in the router table - 1 for the lock, the other for the adjustment. I still prefer to open the dust door and adjust from under the table, but I would use above the table if it were not for the slippage.

[Harvey Pascoe]

I have the 890 also. Brian, do you know that there is a tension adjustment screw on the side of the base clamp mechanism? Its touchy getting the adjustment just right, but that solved my slippage problem, but then, over time it loosens again. I adjust from top only.

Do you need a lift? No, I went for years without one, only when I started using the table more did not having one become a problem.

[Kent Chasson]

There are at least other 2 functional advantages to a lift. One is that, if cutting slots that require multiple passes, a lift is better at keeping the bit in the same spot each time and not widening the slot on each pass. When you use the adjustment on the router, there's usually a little slop in the way the router body gets clamped in the base. The bit will move a few thousandths in relation to the fence and your slot will get wider.

The second advantage is that most lifts give you more vertical travel.

[Greg Peterson]

A lift would be nice, but I could not justify the expense for my random, infrequent uses.

I too have the PC 890 series. The base slips and getting an exact height is a hit or miss endeavor. The unit has plenty of power for my needs, but I have several issues with the base, not just the table top adjustment. I could not recommend the PC890. Perhaps the other units with a built in undertable lift adjustment are better.

If you do go with the PC890, Rockler sells a aftermarket version of PC's adjusting wrench. Doesn't have the built in gradated scale, but that feature is pretty much useless any way given how the base slips.

[Brian Kent]

Thanks Harvey. I'll check it out.

[glenn bradley]

This question comes up now and again. The answer is no, you do not need a router lift. If you ever get one you will never go back but, you don't need one. Anyone who has gotten a lift and said "so, what's the big deal?" bought a pretty poor model ;-)

[Gilbert Vega]

I started off also using the 890 on a router table but had the same problems with the motor dropping. I ordered a Jessem Mast-R-Lift and a 7518 router. When I started redoing our kitchen caninet, I realised I needed more than one. In the process two more lifts and router usong one setup for the stick cut, one gor the cope and the third for panel raising. I figured that since I was going to save thousands of dollars doing the cabinets, I should make it easier on myself. There is no comparison using a lift with not using one.

Gilbert

[johnny means]

I use the PC 890 in my router table. I change bits several times daily and find the built in adjustment mechanism quite adequate. I always adjust upwards to my desired bit height, so slop is not a problem. I will probably get myself the Benchdog lift in the near future. Mostly because the 7518 doesn't have an above the table option. But for now I can't delude myself into thinking the lift would be a real improvement to the 890s mechanism.

[Steven Wayne]

Gilbert, do you use the three lifts in the same table, just switching them out or do you have multiple tables? I have had good luck buying a barely used 890 router in a JessEm lift. I also got a good deal on a Milwaukee 3.5hp router and am considering getting a lift for it also..

[Carl Beckett]

Posting this question on this forum, is like asking a group of 7 year old boys if they really 'need' the super whammy GI Joe with the Kung Foo Grip..... !

:D

Indeed, you absolutely positively NEED a router lift. This is an indisputable fact...... :)

[Trent Shirley]

Dick, I have two PC890 routers in two tables. With my first I bought the above table adjuster which worked well for a very short amount of time and then it began binding causing the router to actually tilt slightly away from the side with the threaded track for adjusting. As everyone else has mentioned there is some slop that occurs and the bit moves but the tilt is the more critical thing.
I kept taking the router out of the base and cleaning it up to make sure it could move easily through the base and I adjusted the clamping tension both tighter and looser to see if I could get it to pull the router straight once clamped but had no luck. With nobody else complaining about the problem I thought it was just a quirk with mine. It was very frustrating to have bad cuts because the router was tilted ever so slightly to one side or to have to grab the router and give it a shake to straighten it back up after lifting before clamping down.

I finally gave in and bought a PRL-V2 lift and love it though it is a big expense.

I later added a router table extension wing onto my table saw and picked up andother PC890 kit with both the fixed and plunge bases thinking maybe the new router or the new base would make the difference for the above table adjustment but I quickly ran into the same problems with that one as well. Now I just adjust it from under the table since it is so easy to reach anyway but some day if I end up using both routers enough to justify it I will buy another lift for the extension wing router.

You do not need a lift but it sure does help with quick setup and precision and a hobby that does not cause stress and frustration is a lot more enjoyable.


Situation: I bought a P-C 893PK kit (fixed & plunge bases) and intend to build an add-on table for it on my Rigid TS-3650 tablesaw. A recent Rockler flyer is running a table top special including an HPL table, Fence w/DC port, FX lift, and a 4-pc accessory kit. The combination price looks pretty good, compared to what I've found in their on-line catalog, but the question is, Do I really need a lift?? PC has an accessory micro adjustment knob (PN 75301) for about $25 +/- which supposedly allows above-the-table fine adjustment.

Can anyone give me some comparison info between the 2 options?

Many thanx,
DickT

[Bill Huber]

I am with Glenn, no you don't need a lift.

But as he said, once you get one you will never be without it. It is just so much easier to work with, no under the table locks or anything like that.

Now a lot of the newer routers have above the table adjustment and this would be the next best thing.

The FX lift is a very good lift, I had one for over 3 years and loved it, I did move up the Master R because I wanted to go to a larger router.

[Dave Gaul]

I seriously considered a lift, until I bought the big Triton router for my table. I no longer see a need for a lift.

[Stan Krupowies]

[QUOTE=Carl Beckett;1764733]Posting this question on this forum, is like asking a group of 7 year old boys if they really 'need' the super whammy GI Joe with the Kung Foo Grip..... !

:D

Do you actually HAVE the super whammy GI Joe with the Kung Foo Grip?? I've been trying to get one for a looong time.

[Jerome Hanby]

[QUOTE=Carl Beckett;1764733]Posting this question on this forum, is like asking a group of 7 year old boys if they really 'need' the super whammy GI Joe with the Kung Foo Grip..... !

:D

Do you actually HAVE the super whammy GI Joe with the Kung Foo Grip?? I've been trying to get one for a looong time.

Mine was a freebie when I bought my router lift!

[Ken Moran]

I have a Milwaukee 5616-20, 2-1/2 HP router in my table with above table adjustment. It requires bending 3-4 inches to loosen/tighten the locking mechanism so to me a high priced lift isn't necessary. I use a height gauge to set the height and at times I do get a 1-2 thousands movement when I tighten the lock, but we are talking woodworking not rocket science.

[Dick Thomas]

Thanx for all the comments, guys. I think I'll get the table top kit without the lift, and add one later if I use the router enough - although assembling my retirement dream shop, I'm a beginner at router work. And Carl: From your comment, I guess my question really should have been 'Do I DESERVE a router lift?' :)

[johnny means]

As a father of young children, I can assure you that no seven year olds know who G.I. Joe is.Back in routerdom, coating your router body in dry lube will prevent binding and tipping during adjustment. I prefer White Lightning. I also lube the screw mechanism, which smooth out the adjustment action.Also, doesn't multiple lifts defeat the purpose of a lift. Why spend $300 on a lift and $300 on a router in order to "set it and forget it", when just buying multiple routers achieves the same end. For the price of three good lifts and three large routers used for a rail and stile with raised panel set up, I can buy six large routers. This would allow me to set up the rail,stile, and panel cutters as well as the door lip cutter and still have two dedicated dovetail routers for my drawers. My change over time between rails, stiles and panels would be the exact same because the adjustment procedure is taken out of the equation.

[Jeff Duncan]

OK so I'm in the camp of never had one never needed it. I have a table that uses PC 690's which I can quickly and easily adjust to within thousandths of an inch just by twisting at the bottom. Mine is relegated to small profiles and round overs so it's a simple and straightforward setup. Also with my setup I can swap out routers instead of bits quickly and easily....I have more than a few routers so for me it's practical.

Now I might change my mind if I got to use a nice lift, but at this point I'd rather use the money to buy another router than to buy a lift;>)

good luck,
JeffD

[Gilbert Vega]

Gilbert, do you use the three lifts in the same table, just switching them out or do you have multiple tables? I have had good luck buying a barely used 890 router in a JessEm lift. I also got a good deal on a Milwaukee 3.5hp router and am considering getting a lift for it also..

Steven, I use the lifts on the same table. I used a 890 router on the third lift I bought until I got the 3rd 7518. It worked well. The 890 was moved to a Jessem router plate for edge treatment.

The reason I had the "need" for 3 lifts is that i did the kitchen over several months, doung a section at a time. This way I could maintain the setup throughout the construction period.

Gilbert