Jerome Hanby
08-23-2011, 9:14 AM
Was installing some hardwood flooring at my parent's house this past weekend. Had to repair some water damage before I could start installing the laminate and of course none of the walls were square. I started with the section farthest from the back wall with the notion that any skinny pieces would be less of an eyesore against the wall rather than in the middle of the room where the Dining room transitions into the Living room. When I get to the last run against the back wall, every piece is going to have to be tapered. I was dreading this because my freehand jigsawing is shaky at best. Then I recalled that the Festool jigsaw I bought from a 'creeker had the guide base to run on the Festool rails that the track saw uses. I set that up and there was no way to make the saw work with the same orientation that the plunge saw uses, but I could flip the rail around. The edge didn't line up with the cut line, but was 2 3/8" off, so I lined it up accordingly and the cut was beautiful. As I type this it dawns on me that I could probably have worked out some way to use the the track saw (duh), but it would have been a bit of a balancing act. The Jigsaw worked beautifully!
One question about the guide base, is the way I was using it the intended method? If not, is there a different width guide track made for the Jigsaw? I guess I could add a piece of hardboard to the back side of the guide rail and trim it off for use with the Jigsaw, but that would interfere with the track gripping the surface you set it on and that is one of the best features!
One question about the guide base, is the way I was using it the intended method? If not, is there a different width guide track made for the Jigsaw? I guess I could add a piece of hardboard to the back side of the guide rail and trim it off for use with the Jigsaw, but that would interfere with the track gripping the surface you set it on and that is one of the best features!