reverse sanding

[Bob Rotche]

Hi all-
I've been reading about the benefits of reversing direction when sanding. I have tentatively started giving it a try but have this fear that the chuck will spin off the lathe since the direction of turn is loosening it rather than tightening it. Is this a valid concern?

[Bill Neddow]

There is another way of doing reverse sanding. Instead of reversing the lathe, simply reverse the direction of the motor on your sander.

[Bill Bulloch]

That's not a big problem, since you are turning slow to sand anyway. I have had it try to back off the lathe when I was sanding to fast and applying to much pressure, but when it started to back off I just lifted the sand paper off the piece and it quit backing off. I have never actually had one come off the spindle.

[Steve Vaughan]

Not sure what chuck you're using. I have the super NOVA 2 and there's a place for a lock screw so that when you put it on the lathe, the screws tightens against the spindle into a groove, thus keeping it from coming off. This is only me and I do not recommend you give it a try, but I personally don't use it and sand backwards all the time...but that's only me. If you do take a chance, you could probably slide the toolrest against the end of the bowl, say 1/8" away from it, so that if it does unwind, the toolrest will keep it from taking off like a flying saucer, but that comes as no recommendation from me. I'm just brainstorming possibilities here with ya.

[John Keeton]

Bob, if you are power sanding, then Bill's advice is a very good idea for you. I hand sand most of my forms, and I nearly always reverse sand without any issues. I do not use the grub screw. The trick is to seat the chuck securely - I spin mine against the shoulder of the spindle, and when you sand let the sandpaper do the work - don't use a lot of pressure as it doesn't do anything but leave deeper scratches.

Use a fairly low speed. I wet sand with BLO on most woods starting with 220, and the extra "drag" can be an issue. The secret is to wipe off the slurry frequently, and apply more BLO.

[Chris Burgess]

I reverse sand my bowls and such up to 220 and have neverhave had the chuck loosen. It should be spinning at a relatively slow speed soit should not jar loose. I use the PSI ‘cuda

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree and if the chuck it on tight it won't come off. If you get heavy handed with the sandpaper it can start coming off. As John said let the sandpaper work for you.

[Harvey Ghesser]

My lathe allows me to slow it down to 50 rpm and so no problem ever encountered. I also make sure that the chuck is on the spindle reasonably tight.

[Scott Hackler]

I have spun my chuck off while power sanding in reverse, but that was when I first started turning and I was 1) applying too much pressure and 2) sanding with the lathe at too high of speed. After that I put the grub screw in the SN2 chuck and went about my business. Since then I don't use the grub screw so I can change chucks and I have learned how to sand the correct way. Light pressure and slow speed. Even sanding in reverse, now, I haven't had a problem. But I will say that I pay attension to the chuck a while lot more since seeing it exiting the lathe that one time!

[Jon Nuckles]

I reverse sand with my SN2 and have done some hollowing in reverse without using the set screw. Obviously don't recommend the latter, but sanding should be fine. I should add that my chuck seats itself very firmly and I have to use a wrench to take it off almost every time.

[Harry Robinette]

Listen to everyone ,slow speed,light pressure and WATCH THE CHUCK TO SPINDLE JOINT. Then check everything again. Be safe

[Rick Markham]

I must be the only one who actually uses the set screw. :o I'm the guy, that if there is the slimmest chance of something freakishly weird happening, it's going to happen to me. I'm paranoid about losing a piece to something that takes 5 seconds to do... This coming from a guy who's last 4 hollowforms have been parted off, and caught in my left hand (I've only bobbled one so far, and I caught it before it hit the ways :eek:) It gets exciting holding a parting tool in the right hand and catching a good sized form spinning at 1000rpm in the left. So really, I make no sense at all :D I'm going to go throw away my set screws now.

[Michelle Rich]

sure you can do it without the set screw, but all it takes is a moment of inattention and a 3-8 pound chuck with a vessel is now airborne in your direction..be safe & USE THE SET SCREW

[Bob Rotche]

Thanks all for the advice. I didn't think it would be a big problem since so many people do it, just like to get reassurance from the experts. I do believe, however, that I need to sand more lightly as I have been having some difficulty clearing all the scratches even going through all the grits sequentially. Might try the wet sanding with blo again as I do believe it gives a superior finish. Just don't like the way it loads up the sandpaper so quickly.

[Eric Holmquist]

I use a grub screw, but on my lathe / chuck (DVR XP/ Talon) combo the grub screw hits just as the threads come to an end. The effect is only cosmetic.

Some lathes are better for this, like Oneway which has a groove for the grub screw, some are worse like Stubby where there is pretty much no room for a grub screw not to seriously damage the threads.

You should attempt to make an ink mark on the spindle through the grub screw hole to see if it will touch in a safe spot.