Rehab of a D-23 handle

[Klaus Kretschmar]

Hi Folks,

since a few weeks I'm the proud owner of a bundle of vintage American handsaws. It was a nice deal with Mark, a member of SMC, but that's another story. Aside from an Acme 120, a D 112, a D 7 , which are all in absolutely great shape, there is an 26" Atkins saw and a Disston D-23 that need some attention.

Today I dealt with the D-23. A saw I'm rather intrigued with. I like the shallow skew backed blade. The handle on this saw was cracked completely. When I noticed that, I decided to make a new one. But today after having disassembled the saw I thought it might be worth a try to save the old handle since aside of the crack it was in good shape.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AUp0s2fTzXo/TlKBZzBqbLI/AAAAAAAABZU/PhraVxkXf30/s1600/P1030027.JPG

The pic doesn't show clearly that not only the grip was completely cracked but the cheeks, too. A pic of the other side will show it better.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ack_0Mzlhzk/TlKBaNkr4xI/AAAAAAAABZc/WQMfYPnjUiU/s1600/P1030028.JPG

A preowner had secured the grip by nailing the handle from the bottom. After removing the nail I held both pieces of the handle in my hand.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GTKIL7u_SEA/TlKBaG0ZJJI/AAAAAAAABZk/MctQ7xi3nBY/s1600/P1030030.JPG

The good news was that the cracked areas still were pretty clean. I decided to epoxy the cracks. The pro is the reliable glue joint epoxy gives, the con is the visibility of the glue line. But nearly every glue joint on a vintage handle will stay more or less visible, so I went ahead with epoxy.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-beb0XR-WhK4/TlKCEI5qqoI/AAAAAAAABZ8/gc6z-SK-cts/s1600/P1030033.JPG

After the glue was dried, the handle was sanded. I took care not to impact the design and the definition of the lines by sanding it. Then it got some layers of garnet shellack and as the final finish one coat of Tru-Oil. The little scratches and break outs the handle has got in about 90 years of use I left alone.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8sPUkrdS-Ss/TlKCEvmRv2I/AAAAAAAABaM/KTfEImiCoig/s1600/P1030038.JPG

The glue lines still are visible but I'm pretty happy that I went with the old handle instead of a replacement one. The blade and the screws were cleaned up, then the saw was reassembled.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VWzteAmeSmk/TlKCEon-WUI/AAAAAAAABaU/_a8_z7eFC3E/s1600/P1030041.JPG

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f45ujTdl-44/TlKC5Jq5fKI/AAAAAAAABac/7mqF_38jZQM/s1600/P1030042.JPG

Now the saw has to travel to Pedder (amongst a few more) who is kind enough to do his magic sharpening work on those vintage saws. I'm so curious how this little beauty and her larger sisters will work.

Thanks for looking.
Klaus

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks Klaus for the pictures -- I always enjoy looking at your work!

Personally, I really like the way the original handle looks after your rehabilitation -- to me it's perfectly in keeping with the character of the saw plate and saw nuts. I've always had good luck repairing broken totes just as you have here and I'm sure you'll find the D-23 to be a great user once Pedder has resharpened it.

All the best, Mike

[Dave Anderson NH]

That's a nice restoration job and frankly I think that I much prefer a true restoration (repair) done properly over a new handle. That saw looks like it has a history and that is the way it should be. I'm not much in favor of repacement parts on any antique tool unless the original partis totally beyond repair or is completely missing. You did a great job, and after a sharpening, that saw will be ready to go for decades more.

[ray hampton]

you did a good job with the glue , the 2 breaks were so straight that they could been cut, the break shape could be because of a good handle

[Klaus Kretschmar]

Thank you for the feedback, Mike, Dave and Ray.

I'm glad that I'm not alone on the opinion, that it was a good thing to try the handle restauration before making a replacement.

Klaus

[Pedder Petersen]

Hi Klaus, I think the others are correct. Even though I really like your new handels, the old ones look better on old blades. This sawwill have a meeting with the rettother in my shop. She's warmly welcomed

[Pedder Petersen]

Hi Klaus, I think the others are correct. Even though I really like your new handels, the old ones look better on old blades. This sawwill have a meeting with the rettother in my shop. She's warmly welcomed! Cheers Pedder

[Klaus Kretschmar]

Hi Klaus, I think the others are correct. Even though I really like your new handels, the old ones look better on old blades. This sawwill have a meeting with the rettother in my shop. She's warmly welcomed! Cheers Pedder

Thank you, Pedder!

I knew that you'd jump in concerning the sharpening/retoothing. And yes, I think the D-20 (accidentally I wrote D-23 all the time) has to be retoothed since the toothline is slightly curved in the toe section.

Klaus

[David Weaver]

I agree with all of the above - a very tastefully done repair, leaves a clean but still classic looking saw. And much less work!

[Gordon Eyre]

Good work on your repair, I like the fact that you have retained the character of the saw. Once sharpened you should have a winner.

[Bob Smalser]

A nice applewood handle is always worth saving. Apple also takes stain well, and in the future when you restore some in worse shape than your D-23, you can dye the epoxy to match your stain and then use oil pigments in the finish to completely hide your repairs.

[Klaus Kretschmar]

A nice applewood handle is always worth saving. Apple also takes stain well, and in the future when you restore some in worse shape than your D-23, you can dye the epoxy to match your stain and then use oil pigments in the finish to completely hide your repairs.

Thank you for your hints, Bob.

They're highly welcome and just at the right time. The next restoring job will be more difficult. It's a most beautiful handle of a vintage Atkins saw, that lacks some parts. I will remember your tips when doing it.

Klaus

[Bob Smalser]

Notice the Atkins handle on the bottom lacks a medallion. That's all epoxy filler instead.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/9131162/266424140.jpg

And this Disston handle had breaks similar to yours and wears a new horn:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/9131162/266910305.jpg

Here's more detail on technique:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7691

[Klaus Kretschmar]

Excellent!! I've saved that worthy informations although I doubt to be able to do it that superb.

Klaus

[Tony Zaffuto]

I too prefer a vintage repair to a new handle. Question: Does "Tru Oil" darken with age or does it remain the original hue?

[Klaus Kretschmar]

I too prefer a vintage repair to a new handle. Question: Does "Tru Oil" darken with age or does it remain the original hue?

As far as I can judge now after using Tru-Oil about a year, it doesn't darken the wood by aging. I lack longtime experience though.

Klaus

[Tom Vanzant]

I recently repaired a walnut rifle stock that I had finished with TruOil about forty years ago. No darkening of the wood or the finish itself.