Table saw rust

[john davey]

Well, I was forced to store my TS outside under a tarp for a while (long stupid story) and of course the top rusted. I knew this would happen and have scraped most of it off. My question is how do I get the miter slots cleaned out? Also there are a few black stains. I am assuming this is where the rust might have started pitting if I left it longer. There is no pitting and the top is smooth but the stains are an awful sight. Any ideas how to clean them up? I have a few pics below but they really don't show the stains...... Thanks, John.

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[Bill Rogers]

How about spraying some B'Laster PB Penetrating Catalyst into the miter slots and then scrubbing them with green Scotch pads? The spray will break up the rust and the pads should conform to the contour of the miter slots.

[Joe Angrisani]

As mentioned in other threads here on The Creek, I tried and used "Bar Keepers Friend" with great results. I bought the dry powder version (comes in a cardboard tube/shaker like Ajax or Comet does), then made a slurry right on the saw table with the Bar Keepers Friend and some WD-40. That slurry (oxalic acid or something like that) reacts with the rust and just about dissolves it. I worked the slurry into the slots and corners with a very fine white "scotchbrite" type pad. Give the slurry time to work, and repeat as neccessary.

Here's an old Creek thread on rust removal:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?151734-Favorite-way-to-remove-rust...&highlight=rust+cast+iron

[Cody Colston]

You could always clamp a softwood board across both ends of the miter slots to stop them up and fill the slots with vinegar. After it soaks a while use a brass-bristle brush to clean up the slots.

I've had the top on my saw rust from laying a wet or PT piece of wood on it and forgetting about it. I use an old Bleak & Darker ROS and WD-40 to remove the rust there.

[Jerome Hanby]

Think I've seen information about taking a razor blade to those black stains...

[john davey]

Thanks for the ideas, I will give them a try...John

[Peter Scoma]

Good ideas about treating the table but I'd be more concerned about the guts of the saw. Have you had a look inside John?

PJS

[john davey]

Hi Peter it was under a tarp and I kept the motor, fence and such in the house. With all of the moving I have to give it a good tune up when I get it set up. The bearings still seem fine and the raise and tilt is a little rough but I will get them greased during the tuneup. On that note what is the best grease/oil/??? to use under there. I'm thinking many things would get gummed up with the saw dust??? Thanks, John

[Jim Foster]

Naval Jelly still works well for the rust, not sure about the black stains.

[Terry Beadle]

White Lithium grease is recommended for the spur gears etc.

[Stew Hagerty]

+1 for Naval Jelly. I was a contractor for years and travelling around from project to project in all kinds of weather, I was always fighting rust on my tools and I've never found anything that works better.

As for lubing your mechanisms, I suggest white lithium grease. It tends to be less effected by sawdust and it lasts quite a while. Just give it all a spray while rotating the gears.

[john davey]

Thanks, I guess I'll try the naval jelly next. I will also get some white lithium grease. I have assembled the saw and did some alignments and it is working fine. I need a new blade but that is another story. I have attached a few more photos to show the black marks and an area that still needs some more scraping I think (around the blade). Thanks John

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[Myk Rian]

As mentioned in other threads here on The Creek, I tried and used "Bar Keepers Friend" with great results.
+1 on BKF.
Another rust breaker is a 50/50 mix of power steering fluid and acetone. I'll never buy PB Blaster again after using it.

[Myk Rian]

On that note what is the best grease/oil/??? to use under there. I'm thinking many things would get gummed up with the saw dust??? Thanks, John
Bees wax is good.

[William Addison]

I posted this once before a number of years ago. There is a product named Ospho which is intended to neutralize rust prior to priming. If you apply it to a rusty area, I use a spray bottle, and scrub it with a maroon scrub pad the rust comes right off. I follow with something like WD40 just to be sure it's all off.Do not let it dry because it forms a sort of crust which is very hard to remove.I don't know what the general availabity of it is but I live in one the rustiest areas of the country on the South Texas gulf coast and it's almost one of the basic food groups here.