Should I stop here?

[Paul Williams]

Note I have updated this with a second photo after more wood has been removed. See about 8 posts down.

Paul

205768

This 7” by 4 ½” Russian Olive vase is from a branch that fell in a storm last year. There was a depression in the side that I originally planned to turn out. When I got this far I had second thoughts and would like your input. The depression is about ¼” to the bark and probably ¾” to solid wood. So it will most likely be a hole after hollowing.

If I stop here I will have the hole plus the second bark spot. If I turn it down another ¼ inch I will have just the bark rimmed hole. I could keep going and end up with a thinner vase and solid wood. What would you do?

I would also appreciate comments or critique of the shape.
Thanks for your input.

[Marty Eargle]

I would leave the depression how it is, but I'm not a fan of the current form. Personally, I'd bring both the bottom and the neck of the vase in and leave a thinner rim. But it really just depends on what you're going for.

Look forward to seeing a finished product

[Jim Underwood]

I think that whatever you do, you should refine the form until you have either planned abrupt changes in the curving lines of the form, or have continuous graceful lines. In both cases, the general flow of the form should be appropriate. The holes or bark inclusion then takes care of itself. If they are there when you are finished, fine. If not, it doesn't matter. The form and proportions are the main thing, inclusion of bark or holes is secondary.

Have I been just vague enough to be unhelpful, or does that help anyway?

[Bill Bolen]

For me voids and other "defects" add a lot of interest to most any turning.

[Thomas Delpizzo]

Fill it with Bondo, smooth it and paint it!!:D

Actually, I agree with Bill. It'll look great with some tung oil on it.

[Harry Robinette]

If the wood is green the bark part is going to dry and curl up and then look like ---- so get it gone now and that should help fix the shaping also.
Just my $.02

[George Guadiane]

If you want to keep the bark (and I would), use CA ("Super") glue along the edges now, including on the bark. That will keep it from shrinking and or falling off.
I would also pull in the neck shoulders area to create something a bit more graceful, and the foot diameter could come down about 1/2. That will make the overall look sleeker. (IMO).

[Paul Williams]

Thanks for the comments. Here is another photo after more wood has been removed. Before thinking about keeping the bark I had envisioned a taller thinner form with a smaller top. I have decided to try to keep the bark and make the wall thick enough to not pop through in that area. I brought the neck in a lot and cut the bottom to make more of a spherical shape. I may still remove more wood to result in only the one bark spot.

205845

[Allan Ferguson]

I think that you have greatly improved on the shape. Would consider trimming the top back about half way. Place a piece of paper at that point to cover the upper portion and see what you think.

[Thomas Canfield]

I tend to agree with Allan. It looks to me that the height should be reduced or else make the top diameter smaller (about half the difference between now and reduced) and shape to current reduced diameter to have a long slender neck. A long slender neck would make hollowing more difficult, but might be interesting. The bark does not bother me, and I often leave some bark or inclusion that harden up with the oil/poly finish that I use. Look forward to seeing the end result.

[Jim Underwood]

The lines are much better, very graceful and continuous, with no straight lines and no abrupt changes in direction.

I tend to be in agreement about the top. I'm thinking offhand I'd like to see the diameter of the lip about 1 or 2 thirds the size of the largest diameter of the body. Experiment and see.

Looking forward to the finished piece.