Flash! Wife gives OK for Bandsaw--Which One?

[joseph j shields]

NOT which wife;) .... which bandsaw????

Well, I got the OK to spend "around $1,000" for a new bandsaw

Now I have to figure one which one & quickly.... The Milwaukee Wood Show is this week end.

I plan on using the bandsaw mostly for resawing.

I've narrowed my choice down to the following:


Rikon 18" ($854 includes tax from local Woodcraft) Note- I have $100 gift card from Woodcraft
MiniMax s16 ($1,300 includes 3 blades, Rack & Pin unit, footbrake, inc shipping, to tax) http://www.minimax-usa.com/bandsaws/s16.html
Lauguna 16 ($1,395 no rack&pin, no foot brake plus shipping) This weekend is the Milwaukee Wood Show...I expect I get it for $1,295 or less http://www.lagunatools.com/lt16.htm
Here are a couple of questions/thoughts...

Of course, the number 1 question is "Which one should I buy??"
I know the Rikon looks nice, good price, good specs... But I haven't seen many user reviews on the saw.... any comments from Rikon users.
I want to use the bandsaw like I use my table saw, am I asking for too much from a $1,000 machine?? I've seen the Laguna presentation where they resaw wood just like you would rip wood on a table saw. (i.e. wood against the fence.... no pin) I've tried resawing on a friends Jet 18" and I had to scribe a line and had to use a pin on the fence to deal with blade drift) Is the Laguna claim just BS??? Can a Rikon or S16 do this??? I don't want to use a pin...I want to use the band saw like my table saw.
Are their any MiniMax s16 users out there who could comment on their expereinces with the saw???
I don't want to start a war, but I did not consider the Grizzly products for the following reason.... The Rikon is cheaper than the Grizzly 17" (in my case, with my $100 WC Gift Card) and the Laguna & MiniMax are better (but more expensive) than the Grizzly. Does this make sense???
Well, sorry for the long post....

Thanks for your help and input!

-jj

[Fred Hubert]

She's a keeper! ;)

I just got the OK to get 'a nice new tool', but my budget is more along the lines of half that. So I'm considering waiting on a band saw or maybe the Grizzly 0555. Also need a drill press and mortiser, so options abound...

Anyway, just thought I would let you know that Woodcraft is having a 10% off sale this Thursday -- just got an e-mail announcing it. That and your gift card combined with your budget mean you could get the Rikon AND something else very nice to go with it... That is assuming you can choose in time!

~ Fred

[Bob Marino]

I would think the Laguna and MM are the better saws, but when you add in shipping and tax, you are well over your "around $1000.00" price.

Bob

[Jim Becker]

Of the three...I'd pick the Mini Max, but I'm also quite biased in that direction...If the $1300 includes the shipping, that's a really good deal, too.

BTW....welcome to the Creek!!

[Paul Dwight]

The November 2004 issue of American Woodworker had a review of a bunch of 18"-ish steel frame bandsaws, including the Rikon 10-340. Here's a bit of what they said: "This is a huge machine for the price. It has as much resaw capacity, power and wheel size as other machines in this test costing hundreds more.... very large table ... micro-adjust screws for squaring the table to the blade's front, a quick-release tension lever ... Plenty of tension is available to pull harder on a blade to improve its performance ... The guide bearings tend to creep minutely out of position when you give them a final tightening. The upper wheel and guide post aren't as rigid as we'd like.... If you want a good value in a saw that can handle almost any size board, this is an excellent candidate. However, ... we selected two less-expensive saws that deliver as much power and have the same resaw capacity: the Grizzly G0513 ($750) and the Bridgewood BW17WBS ($900). Among these three saws, the Bridgewood is our favorite ..."

The American Woodworker editors chose the Grizzly G0506 as "the beefiest saw for heavy work" ("With little exaggeration, we'd say you could rip railroad ties on this thing all day long").

They chose the Laguna 16 and the MiniMaxS16 (tied) as the "best all-around big saw" ("They're extremely well-built, run smoothly and should give many years of trouble-free service").

I have no personal experience with any of these saws -- just passing along what the magazine editors said. Hope it helps. -- Paul

[Bill Arnold]

JJ,

For your price range, look at the Grizzly G0513. I've had one for several months and it's proven to be a good machine. I've heard nothing but good comments about it.

Regards,

[Norman Hitt]

I've seen the Laguna presentation where they resaw wood just like you would rip wood on a table saw. (i.e. wood against the fence.... no pin) I've tried resawing on a friends Jet 18" and I had to scribe a line and had to use a pin on the fence to deal with blade drift) Is the Laguna claim just BS??? Can a Rikon or S16 do this??? I don't want to use a pin...I want to use the band saw like my table saw.
Are their any MiniMax s16 users out there who could comment on their expereinces with the saw???
[

-jj

Irregardless of which saw you get, the "BLADE" is what will mostly determine how Straight and thin the cut can/will be, but THEN, the Saw MUST be strong enough to Tension the blade in use to it's proper performance tension without any Flex in the frame or wobble in the wheels. For your stated use, most likely a Lenox 1/2" or 3/4" Trimaster Blade would give the best results, but are expensive, however could be bought later, if one is not included with the saw. There Are some less expensive blades you could try, but I have no experience with them.

I just saw a report this past week that the Rikon was Allright, but it didn't seem that he felt it to be strong enough to recommend for much quantity for your type of use, but I have No experience with that machine.

I also have no experience with the MiniMax "model" you mentioned, but if it is "Anything Like" my MiniMax tools, that is what I would suggest.

[Richard Wolf]

Welcome JJ.
I know everybody can not justify the price of a European bandsaw in their shop, but if you are contemplating between Rikon, MM and Laguna, pick the European saw. I am also bias toward Mini Max and have their 20" and think it is one of the finest machines in my shop.
Plus if you buy the MM you still have the $100 gift card to spend on something else at woodcraft!

Richard

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Welcome JJ to the creek! It is a great place as you are soon to find out. I have been looking at bandsaws as well, so I don't have one yet. Just wanted to welcome you!

[John Harris]

I thought I was heading towards the 18" models myself after A LOT of research and going back and forth between them and the 14"ers with a riser.


Then just about all of the blade companies at the Virginia wood worker's show this weekend said to save half the money and get the 14 and the riser, but buy a really good blade for the resawing.

Now I am back to the beginning!

[Karl Laustrup]

I'd pick the Laguna. I'm biased to the Laguna. Got a LT-16HD [last years model] and I can say it has enough power to saw up to the max height of 12". That's not to say the MM is not as good or better, just different. I have had no drift problems at all, from 4" up to 10" so far.

The blade is quite critical when resawing, no matter whose saw you have.

[Jim DeLaney]

...I've seen the Laguna presentation where they resaw wood just like you would rip wood on a table saw. (i.e. wood against the fence.... no pin) I've tried resawing on a friends Jet 18" and I had to scribe a line and had to use a pin on the fence to deal with blade drift) Is the Laguna claim just BS??? Can a Rikon or S16 do this??? I don't want to use a pin...


I have the Laguna, and you can easily resaw just like the demo - but only after you adjust the fence for the blade's drift. You must readjust every time you change blades.

Assuming your fence is adjustable for drift, you should be able to resaw <I>"a la Laguna"</I> with any of the other saws as well.

I have the brake, and the Baldor motor on mine, and I really like it. I've had it for about a year now, and have thrown a lot of different woods at it, using blades from 1/8" up to 1", with good results on all. The ceramic blade guides take a little getting used to, and they also slow down the blade changes a bit, but they work very well. BTW, if you're going to use blades smaller than 1/4" on the Lagune, you need the accessory 'cool block' holders. Smaller blades won't work with the ceramic guides.

[Brian Hale]

Welcome to the Creek!!!

Where are you located as it's nice to find a local company to deal with.

For me, I chose the Bridgewood but haven't bought it yet. (Does that really count??) I have 4 other machines from them and they are Top Quality stuff. The customer service is also about as good as you'll get. They're located in York PA.

http://www.wilkemach.com/OnlineCatalogListResults.tpl?SearchDetail=10684968 21660172&SearchData=Bridgewood%20WBS

Brian

[joseph j shields]

What a great forum.....

This really seems like a great community, I glad I found this place:D

Thanks for all the input ... so far!

But (and there is always but) does any one have the MM s16????

Any comments on this machine??? I can't find any reviews on this machine.

Thanks again!

-jj

[Mike Cutler]

JJ. I've posted a few reviews of the Rikon 18" this past week. They are here on the board if you would like to search them.
The Bandsaw's that you have listed are all nice. If you were willing to go about $400 higher, you may want to look at the Grizzly G0566, 21", Grizzly is also discontinuing the 20" model. I know that you didn't want to consider Grizzly but you owe it to yourself. I bought the Rikon 18", but the G0566 was my second choice, and only because I already had a Jet 14"
You will not be able to use any of these machines like your table saw, they are all too lite. All of them will resaw, and do it well, but if you are looking to shove the material thru, you'll need to set your sights a little higher.
You will also need a good blade if resawing is your ultimate semi-dedicated goal. Blades I recomend in order; Lennox 1" Tri-master 2/3. Lennox 1" Bi-Metal 2/3 and Timberwolf 1" 3TPI. All will give good performance, but the Tri Master is the clear winner.
Good luck and welcome to the 'Creek. Let us know what you decide on, and post a few pic's when you get it home. Have fun driving yourself crazy with your choice(s)
;)

[joseph j shields]

Hey Mike,

I did read your excelllent review on the Rikon.

Question about the fence... Is it any good?? The one at my local Woodcraft seemed to move pretty easily on the outboard side. Is that the case with your fence???

Also, can you easily adjust the fence for drift???

Also Also... Can an after market fence be easily attached???

Any ideas about the MM s16???

I will do some research on the Grizzly....

You are correct about "going crazy"... I thought the hard part was getting my wife's OK.... BOY was I wrong:confused:

-jj

[Bob Murphy]

Hi, If at all possible, 'stretch' and buy the MM S 14; you won't be disappointed. Bob

[joseph j shields]

Bob,

Do you have a link for that machine??? I couldn't find it on the MM site.

Thanks,

-jj

[Mike Cutler]

JJ. As far as bandsaw fences go, you may be looking for too much out of a stock, or aftermarket fence system. I'm not sure that any of them lock on the front and back. All of them are made of some form of an aluminum extrusion, and are generally only three or four inches tall. none will be able to resist the leverage force of the material. I typically clamp a stop block to the table to stop the fencing from shifting to the left. I also use a stop block on the TS. The Rikon fence can be adjusted for drift, and can be used to resaw against. Stock out of the box, I could hold the deviation of an 8" wide jatoba board to +/- 1/32" with no adjustments or tuning. I'm certain that the MiniMax and the Laguna can also boast the same values. I believe that you will eventually end up making your own resaw fence. It needs to be strong enough to support the pressure of your hand and the material, it needs to be tall enough to properly support the material, and you will always need to adjust for some drift factor, no matter how insignificant, oh yeah, a tall featherbord works wonders for keeping the proper pressure on the material and allowing you to keep both hands free.
From your posts, you seem to be strongly leaning towards the MiniMax line. You can't go wrong there. Top notch stuff, good support, and an internet users group specifically for MiniMax users. Don't be afraid to buy more saw than you think you can afford, or use, because I've NEVER seen a post where someone stated that they wished they had bought a smaller Bandsaw, Tablesaw, Jointer or Planer. Take care, and get some sleep tonite, It'll all be more confusing in the morning.
;)

[Jim Becker]

Hi, If at all possible, 'stretch' and buy the MM S 14; you won't be disappointed. Bob
The MM S14 is no longer available...the S16 is a much better product and they have been displaying it at shows recently. They didn't have it at the show I worked the booth (Ft Washington) and I believe that changed on subsequent shows based on the feedback we gave back in our re-cap. The S16 isn't as heavy as the MM16, but it's a quality machine, made to spec.

[Mark Singer]

I would get the MM 16 w/a Lenox Trimaster...I have a 20'' Agazani nd I think the MM is closest. I had a Laguna 16 and sent it back...vibration and tracking problems.

[lou sansone]

Seems like a lot of folks like the mm16 here... I looks pretty good to me as well.. I think that the Laguna (ACM italian saw) is also pretty well made. I happen to have the Laguna LT 24 and it saws excellent. I don't have a mm to compare to. My guess they are essentially the same ( probably get a lot of discussion on this one! ). I also believe that if this is your last band saw you are planning on buying then you should get the best you can afford, saving a 100 here or there will be lost if evey time you run the saw you think that you should have bought "x" but you bought "y" because it was a little cheaper.

I agree with the other posts, that the blade it very important. As I have said in the past, I find the timber wolf 3/4" 3 tpi to be the best that I have ever used for resawing. I am not sure about the lenox blades.... Many folks here at SMC seem to like them. I can tell you from a personal saw mill owner ( band mill ) perspective that the lenox usually get thumbs down. Most other forum discussions on band mills show a real preference for either the woodmizer super hard blades or the timber wolf blades. That being said, maybe the "lenox tri-master" is really much better than their band mill blades.

good luck with your purchase... you have plenty free advise

[Paul B. Cresti]

JJ,
If you stick with your $1k price you are pretty much in hte import only range and by import I mean Tiawan, China..... My personal opinion stay away from them if you are looking to do resawing. They are fine for scroll type work or general ripping of 3/4 or 4/4 stock. When you begin to talk about serious resawing then you need a saw with sufficient beam strength in order to produce the tension on the blade that is required. That then gives you two choices a European style saw (more specifically an Italian made saw) or an old cast iron beast.
I own many MM machines and can personally vouch for the quality of their machines and their company. The S16 you are asking about is made by Meber (one Italian company) it is not a bad saw but most definatley not a regular MM saw. The regular MM lineup is made by Centauro for MM (MM16-MM36). These saws are the most heavily built saws of any of the Italian saws I have seen. The Laguna saws (from the Lt16 on up I believe) is made by ACM (another Italian company). ACM makes saws for Bridgewood, Felder and Laguna. ACM alos makes to versions of their saw a heavy duty one (Bridgewood and Felder-blue line) and the lighter duty ones for Laguna and Felder-green line.
Only you can decide how much you are willing to spend. I sold my Jet 14" BS about 4 years ago and upgraded to a European saw. It has been a world of difference. I use my bandsaw an awful lot. My suggestion would be to avoid the upgrade and go right to the saw you will keep forever and for the serious hobbiest or even pro the MM16 can not be beat.

[Bill Arnold]

JJ, If you stick with your $1k price you are pretty much in hte import only range and by import I mean Tiawan, China..... My personal opinion stay away from them if you are looking to do resawing. They are fine for scroll type work or general ripping of 3/4 or 4/4 stock. When you begin to talk about serious resawing then you need a saw with sufficient beam strength in order to produce the tension on the blade that is required. ...
I get decent resaw on my Grizzly G0513 using a Timberwolf 3/4" blade. Grizzly seems to have answered the issue of whether or not their machines will tension a Lenox blade properly.

[Ken Salisbury]

In order to be a boni fide member of Saw Mill Creek theTerms of Service (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/terms.php) require you to use a real first and last name. Please send a private message to Jackie Outten (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/private.php?do=newpm&u=6) and she will update your registration to reflect your real name.


http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/misc/moderator.gif

[John Bush]

Welcome jj,

Going crazy over WW equipment is a component of membership here. Seems you'll fit in just fine!!
I've had the Rikon since Nov. and, as a hobbiest, it is plenty of machine for my needs. When I was "shopping" I didn't really know what I was looking for and what to compare until I could see and touch most of the machines at the Portland WW show. The MM's were the most impressive but I resisted the urge and chose the Rikon. I think the Rikon would perform as well as the MM S16 so the extra $$ isn't the best value, but the regular MM16 is a major step-up in performance and would be the last BS you would ever need. Unfortunately it's beyond your initial $$ point. The only additional feature I would like to have on my saw is the foot brake/switch and if I were currently looking to buy with this new knowledge and experience I would step up to a model that had it. Good luck with your shopping, John.

[joseph j shields]

Too much information......:confused:
Information Overload.......:(
Does not compute..........:eek:

Well I have narrowed the field down to the Rikon and the MM s16. (the Laguna is on a 6-8 week+ backlog!)

FYI... I did consider the Bridgeport, but the guy at Wilkes said that if I wanted to resaw bigger stuff (I told him I want to resaw 8-10" cherry and maple) I should look elsewhere.... like their $2,000 band saw.

The big question is this.....

Is the MM s16 worth an extra $400 ??????

OR

Will the Rikon resaw my 8-10" 8/4 cherry and maple ????

Thanks for listening to the ramblings of a crazy man :)

-jj

[Steven Wilson]

The S16 and S14 are made by Meber for MiniMax, the MM16-MM32 are made by Centauro for MiniMax. The Meber saws are fine saws, not as robust as the Centauro saws but very good for the price. Meber use to make (may still) some saws for Laguna. I have a MM20 that I'm very happy with and have seen the S14 and S16 up close and personal and they look to be well made, sturdy saws. You might want to try the MiniMax forum on Yahoo groups for some more information from users.

[Mike Cutler]

JJ. The Rikon should be able to resaw 8-10" cherry and maple. Mine was able to resaw 11" Jatoba and 11" white oak. with no problems.
I can't answer the question " Is the MM worth $400 more" only you can.
I told'ya it would be more confusing in the morning :D

[Jim Lischio]

OK, I'll jump in here with my $.01 (maybe $.02). I have an S16 and have been using it occassionally for the past 5 months (or so). I have seen a couple of other user reviews of the saw, but not too many, but the opinions seem pretty consistent. First a brief disclaimer: I have not seen or used a MM16, but I'm sure it is a better saw, but more than I need and wanted to spend (and when I say "I", I mean my wife). My previous bandsaw was my grandfather's Atlas 12", so the S16 was a HUGE step up for me. Now for my $.02 - The machine is solidly built. The motor provides ample HP for what I've thrown at it (roughing out some 4" thick turning blanks after the latest round of rain storms). I've done a little resawing, maybe 6" mahogany, just to try it, and it cut easily and without drift with a 1/2" Lenox dimaster blade centered on the wheels. The only complaints I've had so far is that the fence adjustment is difficult to tighten without the fence creeping (I guess I need an aftermarket fence). Also, the fence needs to be partially removed to change blades. The table surface is fairly rough, but I can't say that it has made cutting any more difficult - it is more of an asthetic "complaint". If I had to make the decision again, I would get the S16, again. If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me.

Jim

[Greg Tatum]

Hi JJ....I have the S16 also. Got it back in Oct. '04....It was not $1200 but considerably more with the rack&pinion and foot brake and shipping...it was closer to $1800...$200 just for shipping!!!

Anyway, what can I tell you about this saw? It is made by Meber in Italy....my info is that this is actually a discontinued Laguna LT 16 (or such) that MM picked up after it was dropped when Laguna intro'd their new 16" saw...It appears well made and it does resaw 12" wide jatoba without problem. The top is machined with ridges in a circular pattern over it....why? I dunno but the rep said it helps reduce friction. To me it just looks unfinished but it hasn't caused a problem with accuracy....I did have problems with squaring the top to the blade on both the sides and the back of the blade....I had to shim under the trunions a bit. I'm still not totally happy with it....I also had trouble with the 1" blade they sent (Allpro by Olson) in that I could not get consistant thickness when resawing. I tried with 2 seperate blades. When I switched to a 1/2" blade ,also Allpro, I had excellent results...I see no problem with this $10 blade and the 3/16th" veneers I cut with it....a light pass thru the drum sander and all is well.

I don't like the fence but I do like the rail assembly...it swings out of the way for quick and easy blade changes...also to compensate for blade drift but there isn't any that I can tell..

When it comes to blades, I know this will spark a whole other discussion, I can't see spending big $$ at my hobby level....I have sandpaper to make things smooth. The upgrade just isn't necessary for me.

I am not a very acomplished WW'er but I believe in getting the best tools that I can afford the 1st time. In this case, I think I over spent. I have since used other saws (General and Shopfox) and I could easily do what I need on either of those saws for much less $$. I like my S16...it has great power, it's quiet, heavy and no vibration, but it is expensive and, frankly, I still can't justify my cost but my wife said," Baby, if it's what you want then get it." I won't be a better WW'er because of this saw over a Jet or Delta or Bridgewood or??? but I think I will grow into it.

The manual that came with the saw stinks. I am the kinda guy that needs good clear documentation in order to understand things mechanical. If you show me how to do something I pick it up fast...if I have to read how to do it, it takes more time. I was able to download a manual for the MM16 on the MM forum at Yahoo Groups...it was helpful for getting the tracking adjusted.

If there is one thing that I can say to set MM apart from other brands it would be customer service after the sale...they are good...fast call-backs, tech support that doesn't read from a script and isn't in a hurry to finish the call and follow-up calls just to see if there is anything you need. I like that.

As far as quality over the Rikon I would say that you really need to demo them both....MM has its name on the saw but it is really a Laguna ( really a Meber and well respected in Europe).

I do feel safe using this saw for resawing which is a concern I had. Smaller than the MM16 but still stout.

Hope this helps and feel free to ping me for more info if you like....I'll give ya my # at home too.

Regards,
Greg

P.S. One reason I picked this saw was for its small footprint in my garage-shop....still weighs 300+ lbs though :D

[joseph j shields]

Mike,

You are right.... it doesn't get easier :rolleyes:

Oh Welll....

One last question (I hope):D

Picture this....
With your Rikon..... when you resaw a large piece maybe 8"+.....

Can you just adjust the fence (maybe to 1/4" cuts).... and then slap the lumber against the fence and start resawing (just pushing the lumber against the fence and feeding it into the blade)????

OR, do you need to put the pin on the fence and guide the wood back and forth to accodate for drift.

I tried resawing once on my buddies older designed Jet 18" and had to use a pin and had to be real steady (back & forth) to get a decent cut..... I don't know, but he may have not had the saw tuned up???

Thanks for helping me (a bs newbie) :)

-jj

[joseph j shields]

Hey Greg,

Thanks for your great review & frank comments on the saw. It was fair and balanced (like Fox News:))

Too often (not here, :)but on other boards) I think owners are not too frank about their purchases!

FYI...I did notice the "rough" surface on the top..... I was told that they use a "cold" grinding process on this top..... cheaper.... and less problems with warping... the other method is more expensive.... generates heats & can warp the top & increased scrap rate.... don't know if this is true but it sounded good!

Thanks again for your input!

-jj

[Fred Hubert]

Here are two bandsaw articles posted on another board I frequent that I found to be very informative:

1) http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/toolguide/TT_Bandsaws.pdf

2) http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/toolguide/TT_BandsawsMore.pdf

The first is a review a bandsaws under $1000 -- some of the ones recommended here were praised in the article. The second article is for those over $1000, and I'll admit I haven't read it because they are out of my budget...

Happy reading!

~ Fred

P.S. I just skimmed the followup article -- it doesn't really get in depth on saws over $1000 like I was expecting. Nonetheless many of the saws recommended in this thread were reviewed. An added bonus in the second article is a head to head review of blades.

[joseph j shields]

Fred,

Thanks for the info!

Good Stuff!

-jj

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Of those choices, given no money worries, I'd choose the MM. I hear nothing but good things about them.

[joseph j shields]

I just spoke with MM about the S16 and found out some specific info.....

As has been reported this was the older Laguna 16LT

When MM had a chance to get the model, they jumped at, but with stipulations.... MM wanted the some things changed.

So, MM had the factory do several things:

Replace the steel trunions with cast iron
Made the table bigger
Bigger motor from 1.5 to 2.5hp
Make the column more ridgid
I'm close to making a decison.... YEAH!!!.....:cool:

Will keep you posted!

And a BIG thanks to all... for your wisdom, knowledge, support & opinions!

-jj

[John Bush]

Hi Joseph,

How's your headache?? I have been able to resaw on my Rikon with just the fence using both my 1" Lenox 2/3 Varitooth Bimetal and the 1/2" Bimetal blades. Make sure you use enough pressure to lock the fence down as the locking mech. is a little light. I had no problem with drift and got relatively smooth surfaces. I agree with Greg in that the extra cost for the S16 isn't worth it, but the big step-up to the MM16 would be major improvement. I think the Rikon would be fine for your needs and a better value at the $1000 level. Good luck, John.

[joseph j shields]

Well.....

I am the proud owner of a new MiniMax s16:D

I'm a little scared, since I've never seen 1 in person :rolleyes:
But I trust all the comments from the users!

The deal worked out perfectly.....

They happened to have 1 in Chicago (about 45min drive) sitting at their storage site..... so no shipping and no tax!!!!!

I got it with the foot brake, rack&pin and 3 blades.

In the end, it was about $275 more than the Rikon.
With the Rikon I had taxes, plus I added $50 for 2 extra blades (since the MM comes with 3 blades...the Rikon only 1)

I'm hoping to pick it up this week.....

I would like to thank everybody for their input..... it really helped!

-jj (a bs newbie)

[Mike Cutler]

JJ. You don't need the "pin" to resaw with the fence on a Rikon. The fence can be adjusted just fine.
I'm going to say something here that may sound "elitist" in nature, but it is not my intent. Successful resawing has as much to do with the equipment as the operator. By that I mean that is somewhat of an aquired skill, much like handplaning. The best results, meaning most consistent,are obtained with higher quality "tuned" tools, and practice.
I absolutely guarantee that no matter which bandsaw you buy you will end up making multiple jigs for resawing. I've found that a fence works best for veneer, but that a single point works best for bookmatching. Terry Hatfield used two single point fences that opposed each other with great results. A really big wide piece was easiest with a scribed line and freehanded.
Don't get hung up on the fence feature. It is the easiest and cheapest feature that can be overcome after the purchase.

[joseph j shields]

Mike,

You are not being "elitist" ..... and I completely understand how important the operator is in the process for resawing.

Having said that, I believe that a higher quality machine (tuned to perfection) .... will allow a newbie (thats me) to get better results than a marginal machine (:eek:I'm not suggesting that the Rikon is a marginal machine...)

Dumb question... who is Terry Hatfield??? Like I said, I'm a newbie:confused:

Thanks for the tips on the fences!

-jj

[Norman Hitt]

Hi JJ....I have the S16 also. Got it back in Oct. '04....

The top is machined with ridges in a circular pattern over it....why? I dunno but the rep said it helps reduce friction. To me it just looks unfinished but it hasn't caused a problem with accuracy...


Greg, The Grind on your saw is actually quite a bit more Expensive, (requiring different grinding passes), than the Smooth "Blanchard Grind". I absolutely cannot Remember the name of the Grind today that is on your saw. If the grind on your top seems to have any rough or catchy spots, a couple of passes with a sanding block & about 150 grit will take care of them. It ios a High Quality Grind that will serve you well. The reason most American & Tiawanese machines have gone to the Ultra smooth, mirror type grind, is that it is more showy, takes less time to do, and is therefore cheaper to produce.

[joseph j shields]

Well, I ordered the MiniMax s16 :)

Now I need a mobile base....

Any suggestions from you s16 users?????


Thanks!!!

-jj

[Mike Cutler]

JJ. No dumb question. I should have included the link.
Terry Hatfield is a member here at Sawmill Creek. Awhile back he needed to resaw two large bookmatched panels. He came up with an out of the box design, that was essetially two single point resaw fences that opposed each other, with the blade centered. Here is the link www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=5051
Congrat's on your new saw, it's certainley a nice one, and remeber to post pic's when ya get 'er home