Chamfer guide?

[Don Dorn]

I have been using a block plane for chamfering for a few years, but I'm not skilled enough to produce uniform results over the full length. When I'm done, the result is a chamfer, but it looks just like what it was in that it was done free hand. Does anyone use a quide of some type to get more consistent results? I know it seems like a simple question, but I think I must be missing something. For what it's worth, I use a LN 102 or an old Stanley 118. Thanks for any thoughts on the matter.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

Here is a guide but I think you need their LA block plane.

205736

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=46296&cat=1,41182

I use this one from Philly Planes:

205737

http://www.phillyplanes.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=33&Itemid=35

[Bill Houghton]

You could look for a Stanley 65 chamfer shave, although I'd rather you wait until I find one...

[Andrae Covington]

I have been using a block plane for chamfering for a few years, but I'm not skilled enough to produce uniform results over the full length. When I'm done, the result is a chamfer, but it looks just like what it was in that it was done free hand. Does anyone use a quide of some type to get more consistent results? I know it seems like a simple question, but I think I must be missing something. For what it's worth, I use a LN 102 or an old Stanley 118. Thanks for any thoughts on the matter.

I use the chamfer attachment for my LV block plane; Orlando posted a pic. It helps me not look like I did it with my feet.

You could make a guide for your block plane. I believe this one is screwed to the original 90-degree fence of his skew block plane, but you could even just attach one to the sole with doublestick tape.


I built a custom chamfer fence for a LV skew block plane.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=173570&d=1292182721

Or you could overachieve and make your own dedicated chamfer plane.


Mostly I use a block plane to chamfer edges. If you want, use a cutting gauge or pencil line to mark the dimensions.

When I want precision, then I use a chamfer plane I built ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Tools%20that%20I%20have%20made/Chamferplane-1.jpg

This has a 15 degree bed and a BU configuration, which suits two blades - one high angle for with the grain and one low angle for across the grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I mean, I think the main thing is practice. I wasn't thrilled with my hand made chamfers, (nor the stopped parts I was making at the end when trying to do stopped chamfers) so when I built a couple of saw benches recently I took it as an opportunity to chamfer pretty much every edge, and experiment with a variety of chamfer widths. By the end, they were coming out pretty spot on.

Plan ahead, and chamfer things before assembly where it makes sense - if nothing else, it may let you use a larger plane, which helps making a more even surface. If the piece is clamped or secured on your bench, you can find the angle you want with the plane, and running the side along the bench may make things easier.

You're marking your desired chamfer, right? Don't go too deep with a mark if you're using a gauge, but even just some pencil lines to follow will help tremendously with getting a consistent chamfer.

The other thing that helped me was to look at how I was holding the plane; I end up with my fingers or a thumb curled under the plane somehow (How exactly depends on the plane, and how and where I'm using it on the piece) to sort of act as a fence to help me keep the angle consistent. Similar to how some folks recommend doing with your leading hand when jointing a narrow board.

[Dave Beauchesne]

Don:

How I was taught was sub-thou shavings with a LN 102 as follows:
2 -3 strokes at 45*, 2-3 strokes at 22.5* on either side of the original cut, inspect and repeat as necessary.
With the really fine shavings, the chamfer seems as though it was sanded ( to the touch ) but in a raking light,
you can see the lines, AND, there is a clarity to the wood that only planing will obtain.

Oh, yes, like Joshua noted; practice.

Hope that helps;

Dave Beauchesne

[Don Dorn]

You're marking your desired chamfer, right? Don't go too deep with a mark if you're using a gauge, but even just some pencil lines to follow will help tremendously with getting a consistent chamfer.



I must have a flat forehead right now to accompany my sore hand!!! - I lay out everything in hand tool work but haven't done it for chamfers thinking it was strictly a free hand operation. It's so easy to do and that will most likely solve my problem immediately. Dave said the same thing - now I'm sorry I bothered everyone. Thanks to all for your input.

[James Owen]

Try a set of chamfer guides that attach to a draw knife.
Otherwise, for using a plane to make chamfers, (lots of) practice will make your free hand chamfers more uniform and more to your liking. One thing that I found helpful in gaining consistency was to do chamfers like moulding: start at the far end and work back toward the near end.
Using your finger as a guide under the sole of the plane also helps.

[Will Blick]

or......


205808