Sorby vs EZ Hollowing system-Which is easiest for New "Hollower"

[Glenn Torbert]

I puchased the Robert Sorby Master Hollower last year but it has never been out of its sleeve, Can anyone give me an opinion who has tried the new EZ Hollower with previous experience using the Sorby, I am an experienced bowl turner but I have never tried Hollowing .............I have not had alot of experience with Scapers, I prefer to use my bowl gouge........Do any of you recommend a good hollowing tool that is easiest to master? Thanks

[Josh Bowman]

I have the Sorby also, but really like Randy's Monster much better.

http://monster-lathe-tools.com/ (http://monster-lathe-tools.com/)

[Kathy Marshall]

I have both the Sorby and the Easy Hollower and I used them both when I started hollowing. There is a learning curve to both, to get good results you need to have them positioned just right, cut at or just above centerline and have the tool level or the handle slightly raised. Hollowing was a slow process for me with these tools as I needed light cuts to avoid catches and shavings had to be cleaned out often. The Easy Hollower was a little more grabby if the position was off a bit or if there was a catch, but it left a much nicer cut surface. I know some turners have great results with them and I'm sure the more you use them, the easier they get to use.
When I decided I liked hollowing and wanted to do alot of it, I bought a captive system and it made a huge difference.
A captive or articulated system would be my recommendation. I have the Jamieson system which I'm happy with, others have the Monster system and love it, and I've seen lots of tutorials for making your own which would save some money. I haven't heard of anyone that gave up on hollow forms once they had a good system, so it would be money well spent.

[Bill Bolen]

I have the Sorby and never cared much for it. If you want to stick with a hand held hollower, especially due to the cost of a "system", I'd like to suggest you take a look at Randy's handheld unit with the outrigger. Should save you some learning time as the outrigger will keep the tool from being pulled out of control in a twisting motion. Just go to the Monster site and look around a bit.

[John Keeton]

Glenn, if you are intent on hollowing by hand, I would suggest you look at the hollowing tool that Dave Schweitzer (D-Way Tools) makes. He makes it in left or right handed - for hollowing in reverse or forward. Dave hollows in reverse.

205749

I watched Dave hollow a vase form with it in less than 30 minutes, and the inside looked as though it had been sanded! Keep in mind that Dave has been doing this for awhile, but I was impressed. He was very aggressive with it as well. The outrigger bar relieves the torque. The spring mechanism is a wall thickness gauge and works very well.

On the other hand, one could easily accumulate two or three hand hollowing tools trying to find one that removes the agony of hand hollowing (though Dave made it look very easy!) and quickly spend what a good articulated or captive system costs.

I have the Monster system and really enjoy it, as do my shoulders and elbows!

[Scott Hackler]

Glenn, presently I only have the Sorby hollowmaster (straight version) and a couple small home made tools for small stuff. The Sorby and I have a love hate relationship, but I learned a few things to tame it. 1) I reground the bit to have a sharper bevel, 2) I raise a new burr with a diamond stone before every use and 3) I make sure that the level position of the cutter is about 1/8" about center. It works a lot better than right out of the box....NOW. My biggest complaint is having to break out the calipers and measure all the darn time.

I see a need for hand hollowing, but as soon as I can afford one... I am ordering an articulated hollower with a laser.

[David E Keller]

I've got the swan neck sorby midi hollower, and I use it a lot in the shoulder regions of even large forms. Homemade hollowing tools are easy enough to make with some cold rolled steel and a torch. Enco carries HSS bits that I've used for making mine. You can glue the bits in or drill and tap for a set screw. I've also got the monster articulated system, and it works well for mid sized forms. All of the tools take a little getting used to, but I've not found any that are too tough to use. Whatever you decide, try 'hollowing' an open form so that you can see what you'll otherwise just be feeling.

[Bob Rotche]

I have the Sorby swan neck and have never liked it much (hence, haven't done that much hollowing). Would love to get a Monster system but can't justify the expense just yet considering all the other toys I've acquired this year (primarily my 3520b!). I really do love hf's so decided to try another hand held system and recently bought Trent Bosch's 2 piece set. 1st test drive out of the box and it was clearly head and shoulders above the Sorby. Definitely still a learning curve and definitely feel some torque but I think it will serve me well for awhile. I did pull out the Sorby with the round scraper for final smoothing which works pretty well so I think it will still have a home in my shop. Good luck!