Edge Banding Ply

[Gary Curtis]

In the early 1970's, we commissioned construction of a custom cabinet to display art. I was examining this Rosewood box this morning and took notice that the cabinetmaker edge banded the 1/2" ply with solid rosewood cut with a V-taper.

The banding is almost invisible. Oh, if only I had bought Rosewood when it was available. My question is this: I've seen the matching V-grooving router bits sets in catalogs. What is the advantage of plowing a groove and gluing in an edge band over simply gluing a flat strip on or, for that matter, using the iron-on edging that comes in rolls?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Gary, obviously the groove allows good alignment of the banding with the plywood, which reduces or eliminates the need to sand through the face veneer by accident...DAMHIKT

I like solid edging on plywood so I normally use that method and just clamp it in place and plane it to near enough, then scrape the last little bit flush.

I don't like the iron on edging unless it's a utility application......................Regards, Rod.

[Paul Symchych]

For something really fancy I suppose the V-groove not only offers alignment and more glue surface but if cut carefully it could have a "zero edge" showing from the top surface. I've never used it. It would have to be a pretty special piece for me to consider the hassle of cutting of the groove and fitting the mating v-band. I use a solid edge.
Agree on Rod's iron on edging comment.

[Peter Quinn]

If you were to glue a veneer thin layer to the edge of a plywood panel to create that "invisible edge", the layers of plywood would telegraph through such a thin layer eventually. So the v edge lets you cut the edge banding very thin because it is backed by itself so no telegraphing occurs. I suppose it aids in alignment, but frankly there are lots of easy techniques for aligning edge banding. I have certainly screwed up enough edge banding to know that there is a learning curve, but once learned, its not difficult. So if you need a very thin transition line from edge to face, the v joint has its place. If you can suffer a some what thicker edge, its a lot of work for little reward.

Commercial hot melt edging has its place. Its quick, relatively inexpensive, fairly durable if applied correctly, and can be done with basic tools and a heat source. I'm not sure it belongs on the finest work, but it has graced the edges of all the drawers in my hard working kitchen for several years and shows no signs of giving up yet. Average non wood working people think my drawers are made of solid maple, but they are in fact prefinished 1/2" maple ply with prefinished edgebanding. Super quick to make, very cheap, pretty tough. Just the thing.

[Gary Curtis]

Here's some pix of the cabinet. Since I began participating in wood forums on the net in 2006, I've rarely posted any photos. So I borrowed the wife's digital camera.

Thanks for the advice. It seems as if the Edge Banding bit designs from CMT and Infinity offer the most promise. More glue area and positive registration.

[George Gyulatyan]

That is a beautiful cabinet. Wish I could see the rest of it :)

[Bill Huber]

I have this set of bits for Eagle and they do make a very nice edge band, just looks great. Now I have only used them one time on a project and it does take a little work to get them set but once you do the banding is just awesome.
The glue up is a no brainer, just put the glue on and clamp it up.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v190-2012/ea_-_glue_joints

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Gary.....here's the edge banding bits I've been using from MLCS. They seem to work well too...... http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bits8.htm#katana_edgebanding_anchor

[Gary Curtis]

Among the different brands of bits, they seem to fall into a few categories.
1) a T&G leaving a piece of solid edging exposed.
2) a slight variation of the above, with a tapered Tongue for easier alignment.
3) Male and Female 90 degree bits. These act like a 'birdsmouth', and create a triangular band that is completely embedded in the ply stock. With no protrusion at all.

My cabinet seems to have the last type. If a guy could get a clean cut on all edges, the triangle insert sure seems sexy. Only one bit maker makes this profile of cutter. Any thoughts?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

With all of them......keep in mind...there's 3 critical things IMHO....1)the hardwood is larger than the plywood in thickness to start....2) get the bits centered on the center of the respective woods....3) trim the excess with a flush cutting bit. If you remember those 3 criteria, I can't see a significant difference.

[Bill Huber]

Among the different brands of bits, they seem to fall into a few categories.
1) a T&G leaving a piece of solid edging exposed.
2) a slight variation of the above, with a tapered Tongue for easier alignment.
3) Male and Female 90 degree bits. These act like a 'birdsmouth', and create a triangular band that is completely embedded in the ply stock. With no protrusion at all.

My cabinet seems to have the last type. If a guy could get a clean cut on all edges, the triangle insert sure seems sexy. Only one bit maker makes this profile of cutter. Any thoughts?

I am sure most of them do, look at this links, Eagle has both types and so does MLCS.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v190-2012/ea_-_glue_joints

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_edgeband_ogee.html#edge_banding_anchor

[Bill Huber]

With all of them......keep in mind...there's 3 critical things IMHO....1)the hardwood is larger than the plywood in thickness to start....2) get the bits centered on the center of the respective woods....3) trim the excess with a flush cutting bit. If you remember those 3 criteria, I can't see a significant difference. +1 on all of that.... I make the test cut with the exact same wood as the panel then flip it over and it should slide right in to the bit. If not then I adjust the height of the bit and try again. I do the same thing with the other bit and edge wood that I am using.

[Gregory King]

I use a lot of birch and oak and find if I just rip the matching hardwood about 1/2" thick and 1/8" wider than the ply thickness, glue it, lay a hardwood beam about 1 1/4" sguare on top and clamp. When set, plane each side with block plane and finish with 120 grit in a random orbit sander. Never failed me yet. Just be mindfull of a grain change in direction on the strip. Simply means you just need to plane in the opposite direction. The 1/2" thickness allows for the use of a variety of router bits to compliment the edge.