Tried and True Finishes

[Bernie Weishapl]

Does anyone use Tried & True Danish oil? I was wondering how it held up on utility items such as bowls, cheese platters, etc. Thanks.

[Michelle Rich]

Hi Bernie, I have used tried & true (and i love that it is so evvironmentally great) but only on furniture..and items like that. Sorry I can't help with first hand experience here.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks Michelle. That was one of the reasons I was thinking about it is that is was enviromentally friendly.

[Jack Tyree]

Bernie, I use their "Original Finish" which is a very highly polymerized Linseed oil with beeswax. It does impart a slight color to light woods, but it's not an ugly color. What I like about it is how easy it is to apply. It is somewhat thick and I just dip the corner of a blue towel in the can and wipe it on at slow speeds. It really goes a long way and the idea is to build it in VERY thin coats. Because it's so thick and you wipe it on so thin, it doesn't go slinging all over every thing. I like that because I am somewhat cheap. The other nice thing about it is that it doesn't blotch when applied to Cherry. It is 100% food safe. I have used it on our popcorn bowl at home and at the camper and have no problem with it lasting, and I'm not real shy about dumping a bag of hot microwave popcorn in it right straight out of the oven. When I'm done, I just wipe it out real good with a paper towel and it's as good as new. Both bowls are about two years old and are still fine. Never had to add any coats (which you can when needed).

Hope that helps. BTW thanx for the nice comment yesterday, you really made me feel good. I watch your work and have a lot of respect for your talents. It meant a lot coming from you.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks Jack. I think I may get a can and give the original a go. I am just looking for something fairly simple to use on utility items. I have been using Antique Oil and have had fairly decent luck with it. Ernie Conover told me he use it almost extensively on his utility items. I have 3 turning friends that I have talked about their finishes. One uses Tried and True. He swears by it. Another uses Liberon Finishing Oil which is tung oil based. He said on utility items there is nothing better. The third uses General Finishes Seal-A-Cell followed by Arm-R-Seal that he swears by. Just trying to figure it out.

[Steve Kubien]

What sort of effect are you looking for Bernie?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Steve I am not sure but I do like a satin effect although around here for some reason gloss sells about 4 to 1 better than any other finish. I have a bunch of finishes that are getting old and just want to condense my finish down from about 10 to 12 I have on hand to maybe 3 or 4.

[skott nielsen]

I haven't been quite happy with Mahoney's walnut oil as it seems quite dull and doesn't really seem to harden. Hence I have been trying original tried and true. I like it. Seems to be give a bit of sheen and washes and wears better but too soon to really know. It sure seems to need a lot less finish and doesn't seem to wash out like the walnut oil. Then again the walnut oil has been on birch and the tried and true on oak so I can't give a fair opinion at this time.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks Scott for the info. Mahoney's walnut oil needs sunlight to cure. I haven't had a problem with it. Mike told me it could be indirect sunlight will work also. Anyway thanks again.

[Steve Trauthwein]

Hey Bernie,

I have been recently trying a finish that Alan Lacer recommended for items that will be handled. It is 1/3 BLO, !/3 Tung Oil (pure tung) and 1/3 high grade varnish. The varnish I use is varmor r10, I was using it when I was making bamboo fly rods.
It is a satin finish and I have found you can get it to dry quickly with a friction application. If you have a nice tight grain wood it is a delight to handle.

I agree with you that shiney sells.

Regards, Steve

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks Steve. I noticed a lot of home brews calls for 1/3 varnish but could never figure out what brand of varnish and where to obtain it. Russ's corner talks of using spar varnish.