Band saw set up Question - shimming wheel for co-planner alignment?

[Mike Allen1010]

I've never used a bandsaw before but recently inherited a 14" model made in Taiwan with a 1 hp motor. I'm trying to set it up for resawing. I am a total power tool rookie and they're clearly things I'm supposed to know as just "common knowledge", that I clearly don't know.

I bought a copy of Mark Duginski's "the complete guide to bandsaw". He recommends using a straight edge to align the top and bottom wheel so they are parallel and in the same vertical plane. Just as he indicated in the book was likely, my Taiwanese made saw needs to have the bottom wheel "shimmed out" away from the frame. He indicated I could put washers behind the wheel to accomplish this.(BTW - it would've been helpful if the book said this locking nut has reversed threads - yes I really am that stupid!).

However the standard washers I got from a hardware store are too wide and as a consequence when I tighten the nut holding on the wheel the washers rub against the motor drive shaft housing. It looks like I need some kind of "narrow washer" that is only ~ 1/8"-3/16" difference between the inside diameter and the outside diameter. It seems to me a washer/spacer of this size would allow me to tighten the drive wheel directly against the shoulder of the bearing that rotates and avoid rubbing against the frame.

QUESTIONS:

1) Is there some kind of "special washer/spacer" I need for this? Where can I get some?

2) Finally, to completely align the bottom wheel with the top wheel I would need to shim the bottom wheel out approximately 1 cm from the frame. This would mean the locking nut would only be halfway threaded onto the shaft (which is keyed) -- is this okay? Seems kind of scary to me? Is there some kind of replacement narrower nut I need for this?

3) What else am I missing here -- maybe this co-planar alignment of wheels for a 5/8" wide blade isn't doable with a 14 inch saw?

I hope this explanation makes sense - I really believe in the appropriate setup of tools but I'm clearly out of my depth here! I very much appreciate any advice, suggestions or recommendations!

Many thanks, Mike

[James White]

Mike,

1 cm seems to be too much. Either your technique is off or the saw is totally out of wack. Do you have the wheels co-planer when you get the 1cm. Please give Luis Iturra of Iturra Design a call. He has the washers and will likely walk you through troubleshooting your issue. There are many Creekers who will vouch for Louis.
(904) 642-2802

[bob hertle]

Mike:

I assume you are straight-edging the wheels under tension. Question is, how much tension? Frame deflection under tension will change the alignment, usually significantly. I suggest you check the wheel offset at zero tension, mid range, and maximum. Note your findings. My gut tells me you'd be well served by setting your wheels coplanar at about 2/3 of maximum tension. This should give you the ability to run 1/4"-5/8" x .025 blades reasonably well. If all you are going to run is max tension, then shim your wheels to be coplanar at that tension. Just don't get your spring to solid height! You may find that you need to torque up the big nut/bolt that joins the two piece column if you are seeing excessive frame deflection. Let us know what you find!

As far as the washers go, check Rieds and others like MSC, Enco for shim washers e.g.: http://www.reidsupply.com/Results.aspx?PID=10022160. Also, SAE washers are smaller OD and thicker than standard. Failing finding anything standard, got a friend with a lathe?

Regards
Bob

[Roger Jensen]

I think the best source for all bandsaw accessories is Iturra Design. They don't have a web site, but if you do a search on the company name you will find several sites that allow you download the PDF. They have shims/washers for BS, plus you'll learn more things about BS's than you thought were possible.

They also have an explanation from Jet on why they specifically don't have their wheels co-planer, although Iturra doesn't agree with them.

Roger

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks a lot everybody for your advice and suggestions. As a couple of the guys mentioned, I called Luis at Itura Design and he was very helpful!

I have a set of shims and heavy duty tensioning spring on the way for less than $30. I can imagine the screw up's I would've gone through trying to fix this on my own. I really appreciate everyone sharing their advice and recommendations.

All the best, Mike

[Jason Neal]

I see you've already ordered your washers (shims) but my solution was to just find a fender washer with the appropriate outside diameter, and just drill out the center hole with a step bit to reach the needed inside diameter.