How do I do this? RE: thickness already cut and routed parts..

[David Hostetler]

Okay this is a stupid me moment... I have a base, and a lid for an urn I am working on for my late Labrador Retriever, and I messed up. I am using 3/4 stock and am NOT liking the scale of the top and bottom. I want to change the thickness to 2/4. However, like almost every other one on the planet, my bench top planer snipes. Not a good option... Is there a good way to reduce this without sniping? I am considering the following...

#1. Running it though the planer with a sacrificial piece following it (I have LOTS of 3/4" pine on hand...)
#2. Face joint it as it will fit on my jointer. I am concerned about making a triangle though...
#3. Make a router jointing jig and mill it down that way...
#4. Reduce it via hand plane... My #4 and #5 are both tuned pretty well. The #5 needs a teeny bit of finnesse to get it to take the bites I want, but not too bad...

How would you guys fix this problem?

[Bob Wingard]

Do you have access to a band saw ??? You might be able to "resaw" 1/4" off.

[johnny means]

The first thing I would do is determine if the parts were worth the effort. I'm assuming they are not very big, so there is probably not a big investment in material. Are they complex enough to warrant the building of jigs, sleds and so on? IMO jointing is a none starter, dangerous and likely to end with bad results anyway. What shape are the parts? The shapes will determine what your options are.

[David Hostetler]

The first thing I would do is determine if the parts were worth the effort. I'm assuming they are not very big, so there is probably not a big investment in material. Are they complex enough to warrant the building of jigs, sleds and so on? IMO jointing is a none starter, dangerous and likely to end with bad results anyway. What shape are the parts? The shapes will determine what your options are.

I could redo. Yes I have a band saw, but I an not all that good at resawing... The parts are simple rectangles with a 5/16" roundover routed in them. I was just thinking of a fast fix...

[mike holden]

Get close with your planer, allowing for snipe, then handplane to finished thickness.
Mike

[Brett Robson]

Can you glue a runner longer than your piece on the sides to take the snipe when planing? It's pretty easy to plane small parts that way. Just saw the runners off when you reach the desired thickness.

[Andy Sowers]

I agree with Johnny... you have to make a call whether its worth it to salvage vs starting anew. If you want to make a jig, here's one idea that I've used in the past on my lunchbox planer. Its basically some cheap MDF with scrap hardwood GLUED (NOT nailed or screwed) to on the sides of the MDF to make a simple sled. You would then use good double stick tape to adhere your workpiece (shown in red) in the middle... that way, when the snipe occurs it happens on the sacrificial hardwood runners vs on your workpiece...

Hope this helps... Andy

205257

[John TenEyck]

Can you glue a runner longer than your piece on the sides to take the snipe when planing? It's pretty easy to plane small parts that way. Just saw the runners off when you reach the desired thickness.

A variation on this is to double stick tape your wood on a longer piece of plywood, MDF, etc. and screw or double stick tape runners the same height as the wood piece on either side of it and into the plywood base. Again, the runners take care of any snipe going into and out of the planer.

[glenn bradley]

I would resaw on the bandsaw and hand plane or sand smooth, then re-profile as the quickest fix. I like Andy's solution very much too.

[Glen Butler]

I would run it on the planer and follow it with a sacrificial piece. The piece doesn't even need to be full with. I save my strips from TS rips for this purpose.

[David Hostetler]

I would run it on the planer and follow it with a sacrificial piece. The piece doesn't even need to be full with. I save my strips from TS rips for this purpose.

It's done, and in a manner somewhat akin to what you describe. Except I had a lead piece as well, and a follower. Each one about 4" long just feed them in a row... No snipe... Pine scrap is good for something!