Carcase Saw

[Derek Cohen]

I like building tools, partly because it is pleasurable working with tools we make for ourselves, and partly because I needed a quick fix .. to see something completed now as the military chests are still some weeks away in this regard.

It's been a while since I built a saw. I convinced myself another carcase saw would be useful. I already had one from Andrew Lunn at Eccentric Tools. This is a very fine saw and it gets much use. It could use a partner.

About a month ago I ordered a 11" long and 2 1/4" wide saw blade and brass back from Mike Wenzloff. The total was $34 for a blade toothed, sharpened and set 14 ppi crosscut. Really, that is as cheap as chips. Add in $14 for the slotted brass back, and the basic costs from a world class sawmaker is under $50! Unbelievable!

For some months I have had a bee in my bonnet about a design for a carcase saw. Firstly, I wanted to build a closed handle saw. This is quite unusual, with the exception of one from Bad Axe Works, all I have seen are open handles. Secondly, I wanted to do the lamb's tongue as a raised carving rather than either the minimised one on this Harvey Peace tenon saw I have from Mike ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Wenzloff tenon and dovetail/WStenonsawhandle.jpg

... or carved below, in the gorgeous sash saw handle from the Two Lawyers ..

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_z4ZtNOMO56s/TEIQtmhaLjI/AAAAAAAABvk/ZsmOO8oazdg/s400/IMG_0464.JPG

This was a lot more work than the end result indicates. The raised lamb's tongue (if I may even call it that) is tiny for the extra effort involved. What extra effort? It was necessary to carve away all but the raised areas (one on each side of the handle) before shaping the handle.
The design is also meant to be a little sporty ... you may realise that the fun in designing this saw was sufficient motive to build it. :)

OK, so here it is. The wood is Jarrah, the handle fits my rather broad paw perfectly. Where most handles are shaped from 7/8" thick stock, I used 1" (after the waste was removed for the raised sections). Finish is Organoil and wax.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/1.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/2.jpg

The split nuts also came from Mike, but I had a stash from about a year ago.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/3.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/4.jpg

The slotted back is a slip fit and needs to be secured with Loctite. The brass is a rectangular section and needs to be both shaped (bevelled) and polished.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/5.jpg

In use the saw performed faultlessly ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/6.jpg

One final shot, here it is with the Eccentric Tools carcase saw. Although the handles look different, they have the same hang angle..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/7.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[brian c miller]

That's amazing. I have been kicking around the idea of making one of his kits / saws for a while now. This have put me over the edge.


Thanks,
Brian

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

That's a fun look - modern and funky, while still paying attention to the basics of what makes a proper handle.

I like the 1-inch thick stock - I find my Adria dovetail saw much more comfortable than the Gramercy carcase saws I have for long periods of work, and after trying to analyze what I liked about it (and using an old, large Disston backsaw I recently came across) I have to say, for my hand, I think the thicker handle stock is what makes it more comfortable for me.

[Andrew Gibson]

looks great Derek, though you need to rotate one of the bolts 1/4 turn to the slots line up... it would drive me nuts... pun intended

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Andrew

I am finding all sorts of items that need to be touched up, rasped, sanded, etc, etc. Amazing how they come to life in the pictures. :(

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Terry Beadle]

Thanks so much for posting....yet again a spectacular result !

Super!

[Jim Koepke]

As usual another wonderful piece of art.

jtk

[Brian Cameron]

Absolutely beautiful...I bow my head in admiration ;)

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks guys.

Ok, so I'm my worst enemy - physician heal thyself ... I admit, I'm a touch perfectionistic http://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/biggrin.gif

I looked at the pictures on the forum, and was not happy. The raking light showed up chips and, especially, that the handle was not the rounded shape I like. So I pulled the saw apart and re-sanded and re-finished it. It is now finished in Shellawax. Most probably wouldn't even notice the difference. But I am happy now. http://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/actions/2thumbsup.gif

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/A1.jpg

I also removed a little of the mass at the inside lower curve. Klaus had commented about there being too wide for the pinky. I cannot say it actually was so, but I respect his views, and it played on my mind. So ..

Stephen Shepherd (at WoodCentral) suggested I time (line up) the split nuts - this one is for you Stephen. It didn't matter too much at the time, but now ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/A2.jpg

One picture about the brass back. It is bevelled on both the upper and lower edges. The upper edges are a fine bevel, while the lower is stronger. The end of the back has been both bvevelled and rounded ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/A3.jpg

And lastly, for Bill, when you build your you will need a driver for the split nuts. I made mine from an old screwdriver ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Carcase Saw/A4.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Allen1010]

Derek,

Thanks for posting pictures and sharing your experience. As usual, you saw is absolutely gorgeous! Your attention to detail is superb your execution is a real inspiration to a novice like me.

I also share your comments regarding Mike Wenzloff and the tremendous value the saw parts he provides represent. I never would've attempted to build my own saws if it wasn't for his terrific resource.

A quick question: I sometimes have difficulty perfectly aligning the holes for the split nuts in the handle with the holes in the saw plate. Particularly with thinner saw plates (<.020") , this misalignment sometimes introduces stresses and resulting waves in the blade.

When you punch your holes in the plate do you make them exactly the same diameter as the split nuts? I'm wondering if I were to make the holes in the plates slightly oversize if this would help eliminate introducing any unwanted stresses/waves in the saw plate caused by misalignment? Maybe this just creates a whole other set of problems (Blade/back not remaining rigidly attached to the handle) I haven't anticipated?

Any thoughts or suggestions on this problem would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Mike

[Klaus Kretschmar]

Mike,

the bending of a blade in the area under the handle is a problem, every saw maker had to struggle with. It's not caused by a misalignment of the punched or drilled holes in the plates although. If there is a misalignment and the plate is glued in the spine already, the holes have to be filed slightly until the screws will fit.

The bending of the plate is in the most cases caused by a misalignment of the blade slot and the mortise of the spine. Even if the blade slot is cut dead straight (that's a must!), the blade will bend slightly if the mortise for the spine isn't exactly parallel in both directions to the blade slot. It's a matter of practice to get this tricky step properly done.

Klaus

[Mike Allen1010]

Mike,

the bending of a blade in the area under the handle is a problem, every saw maker had to struggle with. It's not caused by a misalignment of the punched or drilled holes in the plates although. If there is a misalignment and the plate is glued in the spine already, the holes have to be filed slightly until the screws will fit.

The bending of the plate is in the most cases caused by a misalignment of the blade slot and the mortise of the spine. Even if the blade slot is cut dead straight (that's a must!), the blade will bend slightly if the mortise for the spine isn't exactly parallel in both directions to the blade slot. It's a matter of practice to get this tricky step properly done.

Klaus

Thanks Klaus, I really appreciate the advice. I will check my mortice/saw plate slot alignment more carefully. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your insight and expertise with beginners like me! It goes without saying your saws are absolutely gorgeous and a tremendous inspiration to someone like me.

All the best, Mike