set up for shooting board

[Steve Lee1]

I have a Stanley no 5 that I want to set up for a shooting board plane. What would be the best way to set up this plane for shooting, as far as what angle for primary bevel and secondary bevel? I would think I’d want a straight edge and not a camber? Any other suggestions for the best set-up?

I want to use it to trim and square up pieces for small boxes.

Thanks in advance. Steve

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Steve

Sharp blade.

The angle for the primary bevel is largely irrelevant on a BD plane - 25 degrees will be sujectively sharper but 30 hold a better edge on end grain.

Sharp blade.

Square up the side of the plane so that the blade can run square to the side of the platform. While one can adjust the blade with the lateral adjuster, this is not optimum - it an force the plane body to side further away.

Did I mention a sharp blade?

You might add a handle for the side of the plane - Ald came up with a good one. http://www.leevalley.com/US/newsletters/Woodworking/5/5/article1.htm

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Steve Lee1]

Thanks Derek. I've been spending some time on your website, you’ve got some great articles.

So is a secondary bevel important in this instance?

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Steve

A secondary bevel has nothing to do with a plane for shooting, only with sharpening preference, per se. A secondary bevel can shorten the sharpening process, andit can strengthen a blade edge (as can a backbevel). Just do what you usually do to get a sharp edge. And do it well.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Did Derek mention that you should have the blade as sharp as you can get it?

Believe what he said.

jtk

[Steve Lee1]

So far so good. I made a simple shooting board (no ramp). I put about 25 degree primary and maybe 30 – 33 degree secondary bevel on the blade. I use sandpaper to sharpen and the finest grit that I have is 2000 wet/dry.

Just using test scraps, it cuts accurately, but I sure understand why you might want a handle on the plane. It is not easy to hold / push down / push forward for an extended period of time, my hand cramps up a little. The blade seemed to dull faster than I thought it would too.

Just for comparison, what is the 2000 grit wet /dry equivalent to, compared to the water stones that you guys talk about?

[Jim Koepke]

Just for comparison, what is the 2000 grit wet /dry equivalent to, compared to the water stones that you guys talk about?

An old chart of mine puts the grit at 6 microns. That is about the same as a hard Arkansas stone or a 4000 grit water stone.

Of course none of the charts take in to account the breakdown of the surface of the paper making it a bit smoother. A bit of honing compound can get you a little sharper.

You could also buy an 8000 grit water stone to get to the next grit after the 2000 paper.

This is one way to stay with the paper while moving to stones. Currently I do not use stones finer than 1000. Anything that needs a lower grit gets treated to sand paper.

Everyone needs to find what works best for them. Just because it works for me or others does not mean it is the best for your situation.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

The ramp makes it MUCH easier.
I prefer a ramp that starts high at the back, and tapers down to the front.

Gravity being my harsh mistress, and all.

[Don Dorn]

I made one with a ramp because it seemed the thing to do even though it isn't in the picture I got the idea from. Frankly, the amount of blade exposed to the wood is still a very small percentage of its width for anything but the widest of boards . I leave it because I like the board, but if I were doing it again, I doubt I'd worry about the ramp. It's in Aldrin Watsons book "Handtools" in case curious. Anyway, my .02.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n124/djdorn/DSCF0002.jpg

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n124/djdorn/DSCF0001.jpg