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Tom Winship
08-11-2011, 10:27 AM
I have a Jet 1236 approx. 12 years ole. The speeds are not marked either on the machine or in the owners manual. Just has 6 detents, 1-5 and "Fast".
Anyone have any ideas before I start measuring pulley dias?

Marty Eargle
08-11-2011, 10:32 AM
Just found on old PDF online that says 550, 900, 1250, 1650, 2600, 3000

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i3d/01/A/man-migrate/MANUAL000057398.pdf

Doug W Swanson
08-11-2011, 10:53 AM
I've got the same lathe and I did this modification to it....

http://www.chrisbillman.com/Projects/LatheSpeed.htm

It may not help get your lathe real slow but it does help slow it down some. Plus it's really simple to do....

Tom Winship
08-11-2011, 12:50 PM
Thanks guys, didn't I read somewhere that you should turn betwen 6000-9000, where this number is the product of RPM x Diameter?.

Bill Bolen
08-11-2011, 12:56 PM
6K to 9K is a wee bit high for any woodturning lathe.

Marty Eargle
08-11-2011, 1:11 PM
Some people use the general rule that you should turn at an RPM that falls between 6000-9000.

For example, according to that rule, you wouldn't turn a 11" piece at 2500 RMP ( 11 x 1500 = 16500 ).

But this is just a general rule for safety's safe. Obviously a some pieces should be turned (started/roughed) slower and some can be turned faster. Once you start getting use to your equipment, the actual number is less important that just what feels good to you. And of course if you're using a chuck, you probably shouldn't turned faster than what the manufacturer suggests for it.

David Hostetler
08-11-2011, 1:15 PM
Tom,

I have the Harbor Freight copy of that lathe, and at the lowest speed, it is pretty usable for roughing out whatever will fit on the lathe... Fastest speed makes for nice smooth finish as thin as I am willing to go...

Kevin Lucas
08-11-2011, 2:54 PM
I have the HF copy as well and did the modification. Except I just pulled the handle out and moved the teeth on the shaft until the pulley closed as much as it could and locked. That slowed it down some. I never really go over half way on the speed settings because I get nervous )

Tom Winship
08-11-2011, 8:02 PM
For you guys who have this lathe (or the HF clone), do you turn anything with the headstock rotated to another position? I haven't yet, but it looks inviting from an accesss standpoint.

Marty Eargle
08-11-2011, 8:15 PM
I have the clone. I have roughed out one platter with it that started a few inches larger than the swing of the lathe, but as soon as I got it down to ~12" I rotated it back. It felt a little unnatural but I'm guessing that's simply because I hadn't used the feature after months of using the lathe.

I'll probably try it out again in the next day or so since you brought it up. Other than being unfamiliar and not having the safety of a tailstock while I was roughing, it certainly got the job done.

Jake Helmboldt
08-13-2011, 11:45 PM
Tom, I started with a 1236 and rotated the head just once. The articulated arm for the toolrest is flimsy and flexes and needs to be supported (or use a solid freestanding toolrest).

Also, the higher speed and lighter weight makes for some excess vibration when turning outboard. I advise against it.