Drying a vase

[Ernie Nyvall]

I have been turning for a whole month now and of course I am an expert on everything but this part. I've read about several ways of drying a bowl and I tried the alcohol method on a vase looking sort of thing. I mean it did come out round with a small hole in the top. I hollowed it out leaving 1/2" walls. I unwrapped it today and noticed a couple of cracks on the outside that don't seem to go all the way through. I reread the alcohol method where it states the inside of the bowl should get plenty of air circulation. My vase, with the small hole probably didn't get much circulation so is this way to go for drying a vase or is it that "stuff happens" from time to time. The wood is from a large red tipped photinia bush. The vase is 5"x6". It sure is purdy wood and have a little more to work with.

Thanks for any replies, Ernie

[Matthew Clarke]

Hi Ernie,

Most of the wood distortion, cracking, etc., is cause by uneven moisture loss in the wood fibers. In addition, there may be stresses in the tree that you release when you turn an object. For hollow forms, the best bet is to turn the wood green (freshly cut) to a thickness of about 1/4 inch. John Jordan feels that this is an optimal thickness for permitting moisture to move through the piece, yet thin enough to allow minimal wood movement without cracking. Now you must carefully dry the piece.

In order to mediate that uneven moisture loss, you have to minimize air movement around your turned object (e.g. place it in a paper bag, in an enclosed cabinet, etc.) while allowing the moisture to 'wick away' from the surface.

According to John Jordan, after the piece drys (4 to 12 weeks), there will be minimal distortion and no cracking.

Good Luck,

Matt Clarke :)

[Anthony Yakonick]

Turn it green to 1/4" or less and your done, I turn very few turnings dry.

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