Building an Outdoor Sunburst Dining Table

[Brian Kent]

I've been looking and planning for months and now I am underway. I am making a backyard dining table for 6.

I bought 75 b.f. of white oak. I looked at other woods, but the white oak was 2.75/b.f., far cheaper than anything else I could find.

I found David Radke's "Sunburst Patio Table" from American Woodworker.

It is nice looking and has a lot of great construction ideas, so I knew right away that I wanted to build it. I showed it to my wife, who said - "Looks great. Make it bigger." She was right. A 42" diameter round table was too small. I tried at first to re-size it an make it a bigger circle, but I wanted to try it first at the plan's size.

So I decided to start building the circular table top, then separate it into two half-circles and add a 4' long center to complement the style.

So the table will be an oval - 90" long and 42" wide.

Brian Kent

[Brian Kent]

The David Radke design starts with a board that is the full size drawing, the construction table, and the platform for jigs.

I laid out the 4' x 8' board and drew out the oval, with 3" on each side for blocks and cams. An incra miter table gave accurate cuts for the 12 pieces that form the outer ring. I love the Incra 5000 Miter gauge and the Grizzly table saw!:p

Here are the parts laid out on the assembly board:

[Brian Kent]

The cams are cut on the drill press, using a hole saw on a board angled at 10°.
I screwed in the inner blocks for the ring pieces and the cams on the outside to hold it tight.
The ends of the ring pieces have 1/4" x 1/2" slots for splines. I glued them together using Titebond III and locked them in place.
Two of the splines are not glued, so that I can take this apart in half when the ring has been cut.

[George Gyulatyan]

I am going to watch this thread intently. It is very educational. Thank you for your detailed posts. Can't wait to see the finished product!

[Bruce Page]

That's going to be nice! You're going to leave it outdoors? :eek:

[Brian Kent]

I am down to two choices for the legs. Both would go with the overall look of the house and patio.

The first would have feet and stretchers like a scandinavian / Frank Klaus workbench. I am familiar with making this design.
The other one would be a real adventure that I have not tried before. It is the leg assembly for the hayrake table in the FineWoodworking website: http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/35684/stopped-curved-chamfers

I also need to design the sub-table to support the top and rest on the legs.

This is what my workbench used to look like before it was used for woodworking. These are the first kinds of legs:

[Brian Kent]

I tried planing and hand sanding the outer ring, not for finish but for an even surface for the router cuts. I love my planes but for some reason I don't have an easy time with white oak. So I took it apart into 2 arcs and ran it many times through the drum sander. No problems at all. When I reassembled I realized that all of he blocks and cams were now thicker than the main ring, which would block the router trammel.

So I rigged up ways to feed these through the sander and then re-installed.

Now this is probably the most fun I have ever had with a router. The Porter Cable 890 is smooth and "quieter than some". I used the 1/2" Whiteside straight bit and the Rockler trammel. With the workpiece anchored in 24 placed, everything was smooth and controlled. I loved it.

I left a small amount on the bottom, not cutting through completely. this way the blocks and cams still hold. Next steps (probably tomorrow) will be to wide-cut with a jig saw, then use a flush-trim bit to finish the cut.

[Pat Barry]

This is very interesting. Hope to see more as time goes by. How well did the cam idea work for you? What is the advantage over a band clamp method?

[Brian Kent]

The cams work very well. When each is adjusted it not only holds the pieces together well, but anchors them to the assembly table so the ring doesn't move during routing. I can see an advantage for glue-up only of the band clamp when there is no table dedicated to just one project.

[Jeff Monson]

Very nice so far Brian, looking forward to more, I read that article and thought that would make a great looking table.

[Brian Kent]

Next steps - Cut the rest of the way through outside and inside the curves, with a jigsaw first and then with a flush cut bit.
As they say in the magazine, the guard on the router table was moved back temporarily to show the cut. I never use a router table without the guard in place. It's a fear thing.

[Brian Kent]

Time for the tapered slats. I cut the boards to length and the angle on the big end using the incra table.

That made sure they fit the jig, made especially for these measurements. I keep that block with a little piece of rail and a couple of hold-downs so that I can screw it onto jigs whenever necessary.

The next shot shows the arcs and tapered slats set roughly together. When it is finished 1/2 of this assemble will go on each end of the table.

The tiles came yesterday. They will go down the middle of the table. The Hardi Backer is on the bottom, supporting both the tiles and the 1/4" x 3/8" strips of oak, to minimize the effect of wood movement. The whole sled or boat will fit into the center of the table, with a little space for the movement of the big pieces of wood that make up the table.

I am trying now to decide between Titebond II, Epoxy, and Tile Mastic to hold the wood strips in place.

[Brian W Evans]

Brian,

Thanks for taking the time to post pictures - I love to see how other people get things done. Can't wait to see more. If you're taking votes, I think the hayrake style legs would really make this piece a work of art.

[Brian Kent]

Brian, your vote just put me over the top. I will use the hayrake design. I just re-joined Fine-woodworker online and ordered the drawings so I can see how the maker made it.

[Pat Barry]

The tile inlay will be very nice on this table and your hayrake leg design will be very complementary to the overall design so that is a good decision. I'm very interested to see how you will bring the center tile section together with the semicircular ends. Do you have a detailed drawing made or are you fitting this together as you go?

[Brian Kent]

I'll take a photo of the assembly table. That is where the detailed drawing is - drawn directly on the chip-board assembly table.

In a nutshell, there will be about 2-3" of oak trim all of the way around the tile area. The trim will have a tongue that goes into a groove in the hub of the starburst. The edge of the trim will match the outside of the hub. It will look like a small HO scale oval slot car track inside of a large HO scale oval slot car track.

I'll just take a picture of the drawing. I am at work, but would really like to extend my coffee break by a few hours and go home and work on the table.

Brian
I'll take a picture.

[Brian Kent]

The sunburst has been divided in half and set in place. The straight side boards are just setting in place but not attached. The tiles are attached to the hardi backer, awaiting grout.

I tried to tweak the photos of the table to where the design lines are visible.

The center hub is made of 8 pieces, with the two halves divided by handy dandy strips of dog-food bags to which no glue sticks.

They were sitting there innocently talking, when a gang of splines, started squirting Titebond III all over the place. By the time the wild clamps joined in, there was no hope. They are permanently stuck together and will never be the same.

[Pat Barry]

Brian, this is going to look like a million bucks when complete! I love it. ANd the dog food bags? Brilliant. That idea alone is virtually priceless!

[gary Zimmel]

Sweet ride on this one Brian. Thanks for letting us come along. I too am looking forward to seeing the hay rake portion...
I have some thick cherry I want to use to do that hay rake table the FWW site this winter.
With the top you are doing I'm really looking forward to seeing the two together.

[Brian Kent]

Gary, I am deciding now which parts of the hayrake table legs that I will do with 4/4 lumber laminated together and which I should buy 8/4 or 12/4 for. I already have the 4/4 and the thicker stock is far more expensive. If I can do decent grain matching I should be OK with mostly laminating.

[Brian Kent]

Had a great time after work today. Grout in the tiles. Made the hub.

For the hub I glued up 8 pieces and made a circle jig on my router table. I cut a piece of scrap purple heart and clamped it into the miter slot. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the center of the hub. Then I stuck a home-made scratch awl through the hole and moved the purple heart until I was at the desired distance from the 1/4" straight bit. I did about 4 full circle passes. Then I replaced the 1/4" with a 1/2" router bit and set it right under the edge. That gave me control for the right shaped lip on the underside of the hub. When it was finished I cut it in half to use it on both end arcs.

Yes. It IS fun.

[Brian Kent]

Today I worked on the side slats.

I first cut them all at 4.5" wide (12.5" long plus tenons). That just looked way too wide and unbalanced. I thought I would get continuity by keeping the width the same as the outer width of the wedge slats on the arc. So I tried matching the area of the rectangle to the area of the wedges. That worked. I added 1/8" to fit the space and at 3-1/8" wide they look right to me.

Most of my photos are with the cell phone near the end of the day. That's why they all have shadows.

This is a test fit before I put the final chamfers on the rectangular slats and glue them in place. Wedges are already glued. I added some spacers - 5/16" wide and 1/4" high to fit in the slot mortise between each slat. I want to block water getting in as much as I can.

On the finishing forum I have gotten help deciding on the finish. 2 quarts of Epifanes Clear Gloss Varnish is on the way. I'll order a premium brush to apply it - according to Scott Holmes' video and advice. He really knows his stuff.

i have 2 options with that center tile section. It is built to be independent of the rest of the table. When I build the base that supports both tiles and table top I can either make them level with each other or leave the tiles about 1/8" proud. If it is level, things will slide easier and not risk tipping when you push a glass of water. But if the tiles are higher, I can put the hot dishes on the tiles without any part of them touching the wood table top.

Any opinions?

[Jim Rimmer]

Great thread; I have subscribed to it. Keep it coming. And Thanks.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you Jim. I am really having so much fun with this.

[Jeff Monson]

Brian, how wide is the tile section? I think I would want if flush with the table, especially if the tile section is wide enough to set the average casserole pan on. I'd tend to slide things on the table more often then setting hot items on it. Thats just my .02

Great thread, I'm enjoying all the photo's and your write ups!!

[Brian Kent]

Jeff, the tile with grout is about 9" before you touch wood. That should be enough for a hot dish. I'm not talking about a cast iron fajita platter, just like a casserole type dish. I think level sounds good.

[Brian Kent]

I am laminating small boards into thick boards for the frame and legs.

When it comes time to protect the end grain of the legs from ground moisture, will the Epifanes gloss varnish be enough to protect them? Should I add a plastic or rubber or metal caster to keep it off of the cement?

[gary Zimmel]

If it were me Brian I would keep it off the concrete. In my shop most of the cabinets have a bolt type foot that keeps them off the concrete and can be used to level if needed.
I've enjoyed the top portion build but now am really looking forward to the hay rake portion...

[Brian Kent]

I just found out I am asking about glides rather than casters.
This bolt type glide would be a nice leveler and keep the wood off of the concrete.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/S-W-Leveling-Mount-4TPY6?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Hardware-_-Supplies-_-4TPY6&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=4TPY6

Is that the kind of thing you use?

[gary Zimmel]

Very similar. The main difference is the ones I use swivel. They are used with a T-nut to make the installation a snap.
I get mine at LV.
206162

[Brian Kent]

Thanks Gary. I found them and will get some with my next Lee Valley order.

[Brian Kent]

The last several days I have been laminating 4/4 White Oak into double and triple thicknesses, instead of buying 8/4 for more than twice the cost per board foot, or 12/4, which my lumber yard doesn't have right now. Besides, I already had enough 4/4. Once again, the dog-food bags keep the glue run-off from sticking. After scraping and drying thoroughly, I run the pieces through the belt sander. It has not been gumming up the sanding belt, probably because it was dry enough and I run it through at a slight angle.

[Brian Kent]

I turned over the completed table top so I could measure pieces directly to each other.

I am using the Michael Pekovich plans for the base:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/arts-and-crafts-dining-table-video-preview/
modifying as needed to fit the size and strengthen the vulnerable spots on my table top.

I divided the base into 3 parts:
1. Direct substructure for the table-top.
2. the stretcher and leg assembly, where the pretty joinery takes place.
3. The crossbars that united these structures.

The legs are standing in place so I can get measurements and find the weak spots.

[Brian Kent]

The first weak spot is where the legs meet the top. They will actually be supported and anchored through the stretchers and crossbar, but can still act as a fulcrum when people put their elbows on the round parts of the table.

So instead of ending the rails at the crossbar (not made yet, but goes between the feet), I am extending the rails to the outer rims of the circular ends.

Then a support piece is added under the long side edges of the table, that will extend past the straight edge and into the curved area. I traced the curve of the table onto the support piece.

[Brian Kent]

Since the center tile assembly will be flush with the top of the table, I just turned it upside down and set it in place (the gray part of the picture). It sticks up exactly 1/8" above the table, so I'll adjust for that when I make the slats between the rails to support the tile assembly. My intention is that the tile assembly (hardi-backer, tiles, 1/4" wood edging, grout, and sealant) be a water-resistant as possible, with easy drainage between the tile assembly and the rest of the table. The table will be out of the rain, but needs to account for spills, cleaning, and morning dew.

[Brian Kent]

Before the cutting begins on these pieces, I want to have a moment of reflection on people's knees. I don't want anything sharp or sticky-outtie. So I'm trying to think of a design for the end that will fit the table design and provide some kind of gentle curve - either a simple curve or a double curve with relieved edges.

Same with the edges on the side of the table. I could either just keep the support piece squared off, with a little chamfer on the edge, or set it back an inch where it is not as obvious and use a round-over bit to protect knees.

Table legs are 29" long, so the end supports will be at 27" from the floor.

And furthermore… I can glue the center section of these rails to the underside of the table since the grain matches, but I want to leave room for movement where they meet the curved end-pieces. I could use figure 8 fasteners or over-sized holes for the screws, but I'm not sure what direction the movement would be.

[Carl Swanson]

I am really happy I stumbled upon your thread, Brian.

When I was looking for "sunburst" I had a finish in mind... like a guitar finish!

However, seeing this project thread is great. I think you'll be really happy with
the Epifane. Take it slow, thin it out (as instructed) because you will save time
that you would spend otherwise sanding it. A little thinner acts as a flow control.
If you ordered the product directly from ME, you can find Epifane thinner in
a local West Marine.

Epifane used to bottle for West Marine, now West Marine just sells Epifane products
on the shelf. No need to pay for special order anymore!

Can't wait to see the finished project!

[Brian Kent]

Hi Carl,

"If you ordered the product directly from ME, you can find Epifane thinner in
a local West Marine."

ME as in YOU or ME as in Maine?

Brian

[Carl Swanson]

Maine... :)

Epifane use to be available directly through their company in Maine. They bottled
the same chemistry in a can, and had West Marine company distribute with their
own labels... but it was the same stuff! I live on the coastline, so they (WM) are all
over the place. It's cheaper through them than directly from Epifane.

I think the last quart I got was 35 dollars as opposed to 45.

I just got the thinner they had in stock from same company. Someone else might
know an alternative if you can use another type of thinner. It was under 20.00 as
opposed to 10.00 for same size bottle of (say, laquer thinner or paint thinner.)

One major lesson I learned with special brand products was when I painted a pool
and didn't use the recommended thinner, and the job's first coat was horrific. That
was a process I didn't want to repeat ever again.

It's all chemistry, and I'm not positive that a solvent is universal. Each finish
recommends different finishes. Someone else might have different advice though.
I just figure for what you put into your work (cost of materials, time, etc.) is it
worth risking?

[Brian Kent]

I just checked at the local West Marine. It's $15 and I'm fine with that.

Howard Acheson in the finishing forum says regular mineral spirits is the same thing, so I guess I'm good either way.

[Brian Kent]

I put a double curve on the end of the rails. On the first one I made a template and used a pattern bit, but it didn't feel stable at over 2" thick and with very little area for the base of the router. The 90" rail was too long to maneuver on a router table. So I just traced and used the jigsaw. Not nearly perfect but it was safer and not that visible.

I added the supports underneath the sides, making a slope to the ends to keep from catching on knees and clothing.

My daughter had a friend over who is a very tall dancer. She was sitting down, so I measured from the floor to the top of her knee, and 27" to the lowest support is plenty. (Thanks, MacKensie)

The router became my friend again, when I was making the slots for the crossbars underneath the tile assembly. Everything went smoothly and I got as close to the right depth as I needed. This is no big deal to somebody with experience, but many of these steps are my first time and I really enjoy this.

[Brian Kent]

Leg Mortise time. I got some advice in another thread, and used a Freud forstner bit to start the mortises. There is just no comparison between the effectiveness of the Freud bit and my Rockler Forstners (even when they were sharp and new). Very controllable, clean, and plug-free. It went all of the way through the 2-1/4 inch legs with no deflection. Then I kept the same fence position, flipped the leg over, and finished the mortises.

[Brian Kent]

I had to laminate the crossbars to their final dimension before I could cut the top of the legs correctly.

With that done, I tried to follow the directions for the Hayrake Table on Fine Woodworking. I had a problem with Michael Pekovich's techniques with my band saw. He tilted his bandsaw table to 45°. When I do that the fence will not fit on the down side of the blade and I could not fine-adjust a clamped on fence. Then I noticed the little block he makes with a V-shaped carriage for the drilling part. I tried it on a level bandsaw table and it worked perfectly.

The last picture was just for fun since I liked the pattern when all the legs were stacked together.

[Brian Kent]

Many mortises and tenons later, most of the basic parts are cut. I need to cut the through tenons on the center stretcher and cut the cross-bars to fit the base and the table together.

The mortise and tenon joints are glued and draw-bored with walnut dowels.

The through tenons will be glued, draw-bored, and wedged. (Sort of sounds like a Mel Gibson movie).

[Brian Kent]

Ok, so I blew a measurement on both ends. I watched the video over and over. Measured over and over. Waited several days to make sure I understood it. Then I very carefully marked it wrong and cut it short.

I was supposed to round off the ends of the stretcher to match the arched ends. But I cut them short. I need a fix.

Any ideas?

I would prefer not to rebuild the stretcher. Not enough time before I need it done and set up.

I have some cut-offs from the same stock. I could cut out the center and add a rim that is wide enough to cover the gap and shape to the curve.

I could shove in 1/4" of wood putty, but that might effect the overall look. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

When they are eventually matched and cut correctly, the through tenon will be draw-bored and wedged.

Thanks in advance.

Brian the amateur.

[Kent Parker]

Brian,

I'd be tempted to work with the curved piece by gluing a thin piece with the same grain orientation to inside of the curve then, once glued, matching its inside surface to the flat end grain of the straight piece.

Piece of cake ! :D

Cheers,

Kent

[Prashun Patel]

Awesome work, Brian - as always; have enjoyed following this. If it were me, I'd shim each exposed shoulder with a crescent-shaped wedge. I'd run the grain in the same direction as the curved part - not the stretcher; I just think it'll be less conspicuous that way.

I would NOT fill it with putty or epoxy; I think that'll fall out with seasonal movement pretty quickly.

If you are really averse to this, then the only other thing I can think of is to shave the shoulders of the curved piece to draw the curved piece in. That feels like a lot of work and prayer (no offense ;))

[Brian Kent]

I realized in the middle of the night that I could pull the whole assembly closer to the center. I added 1/4" to the mortises in the middle of the stretcher, cut the ends to shape, and then pulled everything toward the center 1/4".

Another thing I noticed is that the expert who wrote the article and made the plans and video is a heck of a lot more accurate than I am.

:D

[Kent Parker]

Bravo!!

Excellent table by the way. Really enjoyed the photos and tutorial!

Cheers,

Kent

[Brian Kent]

Excellent name, Kent.

[Jeff Monson]

Nice fix Brian, helps to step back, take a deep breath and not make hasty decisions. The table is looking GREAT, keep the photo's coming!

[Brian Kent]

It was a good day off today.

I did a lot of draw boring, glueing, and wedging tenons. That was fun.

Even more fun was the marking, hand sawing, and fitting together the hay-rake base with the support structure of the table top. So far so good.

Did I mention I has been a fun day.

My sons friends are over tonight playing Dungeons and Dragons and writing wedding invitations. I really love these folks. Average age about 32. They cook a gourmet meal each week and do the dishes afterwards. Does is get any better than this? :p

My goal is to get this ready for the October 22 outdoor wedding, so it can be the head table instead of a bunch of partially assembled lumber in everybody's way.

Here are some assembled frame shots.

The long supports go to the end of the starburst pattern on the ends of the tables. The ladders rungs are inset about 1/4" to allow for the difference in thickness of the tile assembly.

So far there is not metal in the structure. I think I will have to use figure 8 fasteners screwing the ends of the ladder to the ends under the table. If I could figure out an all wood way to allow for moisture movement, I would use it.

[gary Zimmel]

This is going to be one sweet table Brian.
Hope you get her all done for the 22nd.
As a side note real nice save getting that joint to come together..

[Brian Kent]

I meant "shiny surface" but I don't know how to edit a title.

Two coats on top, followed by two coats on bottom, followed by as many of the 7 coats on top that I can get on and dry by October 22 wedding.

PS, I do love my daughter's photography.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Mr Kent:

Looking good. Very good.

Fed up with sanding between coats yet? I was by this time. :D

Kent

[Pat Barry]

Brian, this is looking fantastic. Congrats on the work. Did you decide on the Epiphane for the finish?

[Brian Kent]

Yes - Epifanes High Gloss.

I want to recommend Scott Holmes' excellent video on brushing varnish. This is very helpful. No, extremely helpful!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZW8dqI2zb8&feature=youtu.be

[George Gyulatyan]

This is looking beautiful!

Thanks for sharing the process and the progress.

[Brian Kent]

The whole structure and top is now cut and routed, planed and sanded, mortised and tenoned, draw-bored and wedged, glued and screwed.

Top has two coats. Bottom and leg structure has one coat (50% mineral spirits).
I need at least one more coat on the bottom and one more on the top (both 25% mineral spirits).

I am really hoping to make time for this tomorrow and the next day so it will have 7 days to dry before the wedding day, October 22.

Final coats will come after the wedding.

It is 101° out right now, but I am avoiding the temptation to do a second coat on the bottom today.

[Kent A Bathurst]

OK......2 weeks after the wedding. I know there are photos out there somewhere of the finished table at the reception.......................:confused: :confused: :confused:

[Brian Kent]

Aaah, but the problem is I am now in Cairo with my daughter. Busy life this fall. I will take pictures and / or get the photographers photos when I get back. Meanwhile a 95 lb German shepherd, an 80 lb Rhodesian Ridgeback, a border Collie and barky Miniature Pincer are caring for it.

[Kent A Bathurst]

That old excuse again? The pyramids?

[Brian Kent]

So here we are at last. Here are some cell-phone photos of the finished project. Well, finished except more fine sanding and more coats of Epiphanes.

[Prashun Patel]

Perfect. Like always.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Very nice. I'll quit nagging now - my work here is done. :D :D