MLCS router bits and raised panel doors....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I am in the process of building an oak entertainment center for the LOML. A couple months ago I decided to order a MLCS raised panel bit, a rail and stile matched set and a edge banding set from MLCS. I chose to order the Katana series bits.

I just finished milling and routing rails and stiles for 4 doors. 2 of the doors will have glass in them. 2 will have raised oak panels. Today I milled the raised panels.

The MLCS Katana bits are impressive. Next week I will start using the edge banding bit set as I begin making sliding shelves and drawers that will require edge banding.

I ran into a slight problem today milling the raised panels. The hole in my cheap router table is only 2 7/8" approximately and I couldn't lower the 3" raised panel bit low enough. So, the LOML said "Would Woodcraft in Spokane have a better router table?". I considered the trip but then using some scrap 1/4" plywood, a 4" holes saw, I made a temporary router table top that I clamped ontop the router table using the fence. It raised the work surface enough that I was able to route the raised panels.

Here's the dry fit of one of the doors:

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[scott spencer]

Glad you went with the Katana line for the doors Ken...they're definitely a step up from MLCS' regular series and are worth a little extra for an application that I consider more critical than most. They look good from what I can tell in the pics! Please follow up with a finished look at the whole project!

[Paul Incognito]

Nice doors Ken. I'm cuious if you've tried the Whiteside rail and stile bits. I've been using them with less than stellar results. I almost always end up with some tear out at the bottom of the bead, where it meets the panel. Any idea how these compare?
Thanks,
Paul

[Bill Trouard]

I also have a set of MLCS Katana series raised panel bits with back cutter. I have used them on Cherry, Maple and Oak. I have had nothing but fantastic results from them with no tearout. I have a Kreg Router table and Kreg lift. So I have not had an issue with the 3" panel bit. The Kreg lift has changable inserts. For that bit I just remove the insert.

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[Paul Incognito]

Thanks Bill, I'll have to give them a try.
Paul

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bill...my cheap table has changeable inserts too but the maximum hole diameter is about 2 7/8" and I could not coax that 3" bit through it.....:o

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Paul....I have never used Whiteside bits....most of the bits I have used previously were from a local HD.

Recently when I got ready to start this project, I elected to order some bits and blades from sources recommended by members here. So far I have been pleased with Infinity blades...especially their Glueline Ripper and now with the MLCS bits.

[Bill Trouard]

here is a door I just did with the Katana series bits.

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[scott spencer]

Paul - I've got several Whiteside bits that I generally consider among my best bits, along side my Infinity bits. I've never tried the Whiteside panel raisers, but overall I typically consider their bits the next level up from the Katana, which are a step up from the MLCS standard line and other decent budget imports like Woodline and Grizzly green. There's never a guarantee that one profile is representive of the others though...and there's always a chance you got a sub-par cutter from them...it happens. How old is your Whiteside panel raiser?

[Phil Thien]

Nice looking door, Ken.

I'll remember the Katana bit tip in the future. Those bit sets can be expensive, getting the Katana may allow me to save some bucks while keeping the quality up.

[Paul Incognito]

Thanks everyone for sharing your experience. Sorry Ken, I didn't mean to hijack your thread.
Scott, it's not the panel raiser that chews up the edges, it's the edges of the rails and stiles where they meet the panel. I've had the same problem with the edges of the profile chipping with oak, cherry and to a lesser extent, poplar. I've played with router speed, feed rate, taking smaller bites and climb cutting. Maybe the set's just getting old? I've been using the set for a couple of years and have made 50 or so doors with them.
Thanks for the help,
Paul

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Paul.....there was no tearout at all with the MLCS Katana bits on the rails and stiles.

[David Hostetler]

Even their non Katana bits are plenty impressive. I get zero tear out with them...

[Bruce Wrenn]

Even their non Katana bits are plenty impressive. I get zero tear out with them...I'm a MLCS fan for many years. Nothing but good results. I have one 1/2" straight bit that we used to cut radius ribs from 3/4 plywood for a customer service desk. Probaly cut over a thousand linear feet of inside / outside radius. This bit is still in service several years later. Though I'm now buying the Kantata line, as I can afford it.