Greg Johnson
02-18-2005, 10:26 AM
First I want to thank everyone in this forum for some great information. My 28 year old Craftsman table saw was facing imminent death a few months ago, so I started researching saws. I posted a while back with questions about "hybrids" and got some very informative information. This past weekend I had the "table saw emergency":( that "forced";) me to get a new saw. My motor died..... So, this week I picked up a Grizzly 1023SL. Whoaaaa..... what a saw. I just finished tuning it last night and it passed the nickel test. :) I am really happy with it so far.
OK... now the question. I am going to install crown molding into our master bedroom. I have done crown molding in our master bath - 6 inside and 2 outside corners. Of course that was my first experience with it and according to what I've read now, I did it all wrong. I mitered every joint. The reality is, it came out perfect and I didn't have any of the problems you would expect with miters. They were, and still are all tight. So, now with this bedroom, I thought I would try to do it "right" with coping joints. I have done some test cuts and practiced in my shop. There is no way I can get a tight coping joint on my practice pieces. This molding is a little wider and a little more ornate with some deep coves and shoulders. This is driving me nuts. I must be missing something. I know that I am making the original cut correctly. I'm using a DeWalt 12" Compound Miter Saw with a Crown Molding attachment. I'm cutting it bottom side up. The angle is good, but the relief inside the coves is where it opens up. I'm not a very good 3 dimensional thinker:o ... but does the geometry change inside of these deep coves on a compound miter? I'm just about ready to go with miters again. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Greg
OK... now the question. I am going to install crown molding into our master bedroom. I have done crown molding in our master bath - 6 inside and 2 outside corners. Of course that was my first experience with it and according to what I've read now, I did it all wrong. I mitered every joint. The reality is, it came out perfect and I didn't have any of the problems you would expect with miters. They were, and still are all tight. So, now with this bedroom, I thought I would try to do it "right" with coping joints. I have done some test cuts and practiced in my shop. There is no way I can get a tight coping joint on my practice pieces. This molding is a little wider and a little more ornate with some deep coves and shoulders. This is driving me nuts. I must be missing something. I know that I am making the original cut correctly. I'm using a DeWalt 12" Compound Miter Saw with a Crown Molding attachment. I'm cutting it bottom side up. The angle is good, but the relief inside the coves is where it opens up. I'm not a very good 3 dimensional thinker:o ... but does the geometry change inside of these deep coves on a compound miter? I'm just about ready to go with miters again. Does anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Greg