ULS M300 M360 Honeycomb Vector Cutting Table insert photos

[Robert Walters]

My laser never came with a vector table/insert.

I got my hands on some raw aluminum honeycomb, and now I'm trying to make a frame for it but having a hard time finding the right materials.

If you have/use honeycomb vector cutting table, could you post (or link to) some hi-res photos of the frame from a few angles by chance?


If you have some ideas on how to frame raw honeycomb, that might help too.
I'd like to be able to make a frame that I don't have to epoxy when replacing the honeycomb if possible.

I'm working on a pin table too, but need the honeycomb for some light weight materials.

[Dan Hintz]

Why not just use some aluminum angle from Home Depot? Doesn't need to be anything fancy.

[Craig Matheny]

Mine is just an L shaped aluminium square. To hold it in place you use simple silicone on the L and push the honeycomb into it then when it needs to replace just cut it out with a razor blade. I would pay some one to weld the outer square or notch it on the corners and bend it. Does you tray have a center support across it Eilogs do and this helps support the honey comb. By the way what size honeycomb and where did you get it as I am looking for some to replace my existing honeycomb.

[Robert Walters]

Dan,

The honeycomb needs to be "fixed" on the edges, to be rigid in the middle.
I need to be able to either:
a) mechanically grip, or
b) permanently adhere (epoxy)

the honeycomb on/into a 90 degree square "frame" or 'C' channel.
While I have the 'C' channel, I have no way to make sure that two sides are at a perfect right-angle (90 degrees)
and make sure that the honeycomb actually STAYS in the channel under tension.

I know they do this already with a mechanical press that forms the frame much like they have that machine they use to to make roof gutters on the job site. I just don't have any photos of the frame to draw up ideas upon to create my own using off-the-shelf materials.

[Mike Null]

There are several important elements to consider when building your own cutting grid. First, it must be elevated above the surface of the table to provide air flow and to minimize flash back. Second, it should have built into the supports a means of obtaining a 0-0 postion for the object being engraved/cut. This can be achieved by cutting or building ofsets into the supports so that the grid can be positioned against the rulers. I used wood butted against the rulers but with tabs stapled above the height of the rulers. it's very simple and can be done in just a few minutes. I do not use my grid when I'm engraving plaques or acrylics but removing is as simple as lifting it out and setting next to the machine.

[Robert Walters]

I've already been working on the design for raising the cutting bed above the table as well as redirecting a portion of the DC flow to act somewhat of a vacuum hold down for lightweight materials and to draw out the trapped smoke/vapor quicker.

Much of the design is pending on the frame I use/create for the honeycomb, but I still need some photos to go off of.

If anyone could shoot a few hi-res photos of their honeycomb grid, especially a few different angles of the frame, it would be appreciated.

It really doesn't matter what brand they have, ULS, Epilog, etc.

[Paul Brinkmeyer]

Will this work?

[Chuck Stone]

Will this work?

Get thee to a Krud-Cutterie! :p

[Mike Mackenzie]

I hope this will work for you the honeycomb material sets down on the ribs and the rulers / edge bars hold the material flat around the edges.203919

[Robert Walters]

Mike and Paul,

Yes, those photos did help! Thank you both!!!

[Michael Hunter]

Mike Mackenzie beat me to it with a decent photo, but here is mine anyway.

Not an easy shape unless you have access to a good bender, but it could be reproduced by glueing or riveting aluminium angles together.

[Robert Walters]

Michael,

It's all good, I still have to figure out an expandable baffle or some such thing to get 'maximum suckage'
to the cutting table when insert into the laser. Maybe with some magnets to attach to the back once inserted.

[Emma austin]

Out of curiosity, how much does a honeycomb tray cost? We bought our machine second hand and it came with it. Have never used the machine without it. But we do mostly cutting.

[Mike Mackenzie]

Robert,

There is another part to the cutting table that goes into the front side opening there are slots and thumb screws to adjust it to the plenum. The other thing you have to look at is on the older systems some did not have the opening in the exhaust Plenum. You can see it in the second picture from paul. This is how they adjust it to the exhaust port.

[Robert Walters]

Mike,

The plenum on mine has an opening about 1" tall and full length of the plenum.
Seems much shorted than Paul's 2nd pic which looks like 2" tall or so.

About mid-center is a cover (with a screw on each end) that's 11" long and 1" tall.

What's weird is that the screws that hold the plenum on the back wall are INSIDE the plenum,
not outside like illustrated in the manual.

SN: 8xxxx

[Mike Mackenzie]

The two screws that hold the plenum on are on the back side of the system. The two screws you see are just there for the top part to rest on. The tabs have a half circle that just sets on top of the screw.

The plate you see is what you remove then the cutting table covers that area. We would block off some of the top exhaust area to get the exhaust to pull from below.

[Robert Walters]

Mike,

I didn't realize that 11" plate was the duct for the cutting table being so small.
But I guess it's just to exhaust fumes from under the cutting surface and not really
intended as a vacuum hold down for lightweight materials that like being sucked in.

I saw some plans on making your own bellows as used on mills.

I might give it a try and just use some neodymium magnets that I have to attach it to the
plenum opening and a baffle to adjust the airflow above/below the cutting table as needed.

BTW, thanks for the info you've provide, it's been a big help!!!

[Dan Hintz]

I didn't realize that 11" plate was the duct for the cutting table being so small.
But I guess it's just to exhaust fumes from under the cutting surface and not really intended as a vacuum hold down for lightweight materials that like being sucked in.
It works quite well as a vacuum table... you just can't use a little bathroom fan to pull the vacuum.